Pictures of under carriage

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  • Beach_Dude
    327 Rambler
    • Mar 03, 2011
    • 583

    Pictures of under carriage

    Putting factory exhaust manifold back on and redoing the entire exhaust system since it's rusted between here and hell.

    The biggest issue I have is that I ordered a y pipe from a scrap yard, but I don't see how it fits with the hydromatic and the 360, thinking it's probably the wrong pipe.

    Originally I was going to piece it all together, cut, spot weld with flanges, then bring to an exhaust shop for them to just remake it all.

    Looks like I just might have it towed to an exhaust shop to have it done if I can't figure it out tomorrow.

    Does anyone have any clear images of the undercarriage with a 360 and th400 for 1977, iirc the same as 1976-1979?
    1977 Jeep Cherokee Chief
    360 w/ MC 4350
    All stock but ignition and slightly modified suspection
    Original paint, garaged/non-op for over 15 years
  • babywag
    out of order
    • Jun 08, 2005
    • 10288

    #2


    He had whole exhaust system if still available probably save you time & $$.
    Tony
    88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

    Comment

    • Beach_Dude
      327 Rambler
      • Mar 03, 2011
      • 583

      #3
      Just did a shotty build on the exhaust, making it work to drive to the exhaust shop. However, there's one major problem prohibiting me from getting it completed now.

      THE HEAT RISER DOESN'T WORK!

      I called the jeep shop I purchased it from and they're checking in on a return for the item.

      Basically, the spring is loaded closed cold, heats up to where the oil from my hands on the exhaust was smoking, and I still had to take a screw driver to the heat riser to open the valve. It moves freely, not sticking from friction, but the spring is super tight.

      Is there a way to install them incorrectly if it was a complete Heat riser that would cause it not to function properly?
      1977 Jeep Cherokee Chief
      360 w/ MC 4350
      All stock but ignition and slightly modified suspection
      Original paint, garaged/non-op for over 15 years

      Comment

      • KillyMcGee
        232 I6
        • Aug 26, 2019
        • 41

        #4
        Originally posted by Beach_Dude

        THE HEAT RISER DOESN'T WORK!

        ?
        Help someone who's not familiar with many carbed motors. Is the purpose of the heat riser to aid in getting the engine to temperature quicker?

        What about the lines that go from the exhaust manifold to the intake?
        85 and 86 GWs

        Comment

        • Beach_Dude
          327 Rambler
          • Mar 03, 2011
          • 583

          #5
          The air injection tubes are to add oxygen to the exhaust, allowing a full burn of hydrocarbons and converts gasses to a full co2+h20+n2+o2 exhaust, by adding additional o2 to the mix.

          Those are nessisary to pass emissions in many states.

          If you're on a budget type car, disconnect it all and get the plugs from an online source.

          People say it helps the engine run smoother, etc... I can't vouch for that. What I can say is that these exhaust parts aren't getting any cheaper and just nip it in the butt and get rid of them.

          Gonna just make another post...
          Last edited by Beach_Dude; 10-18-2019, 11:37 PM.
          1977 Jeep Cherokee Chief
          360 w/ MC 4350
          All stock but ignition and slightly modified suspection
          Original paint, garaged/non-op for over 15 years

          Comment

          • tgreese
            • May 29, 2003
            • 11682

            #6
            Originally posted by KillyMcGee
            Help someone who's not familiar with many carbed motors. Is the purpose of the heat riser to aid in getting the engine to temperature quicker? ...
            Mmm - I'd guess it does not affect the coolant temperature much. The main reason for the valve in the pipe is to force exhaust gas through the intake manifold so it exits on the other side. This heats the intake manifold, which helps prevent fuel from condensing on the inside of the cold intake manifold runners. A warmer intake means you can use a leaner mixture during warm-up, which reduces HC emissions before the coolant comes up to temp. It also improves cold weather drivability, providing better startup-and-go capability when it's cold.
            Tim Reese
            Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
            Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
            Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
            GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
            ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

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