Bolt holes won't line up on intake manifold.

[Scruffy]

I really hope there is an easy explanation for this.
While trying to install my 4bbl Edelbrock intake on my stock AMC 360 on my '82 Wagoneer today, I couldn't get the friggin' bolts in due to a slight variance in the bolt holes on the block and the holes on the new manifold.
So now I have to remove all the dried RTV sealant from the surfaces, including the new valley pan gasket (which, by the way, sliced the living hell out of my right middle finger).

Has anyone else problems installing the Edelbrock 4bbl intake?

I slightly suspect the culprit may be the rubber end seals that were included with the gasket. I'm thinking they are not compressing enough to allow the bolt holes to align. If this is the case, I'll just use a super-thick bead of RTV sealant as end seals.

I hope to get the sucker on tomorrow, any help will greatly be appreciated.

Also....

I noticed that my intake manifold doesn't appear to have a chamber openning for the right rear water passage from the water jacket (closest to drivers side)... I might check this again, but is this normal?
There are three openings on three corners, minus that one... it doesn't make much sense to me.

[porkchop]

Mine fit with alittle help. Don't use the rubber ends. Edelbrock mentions this in the instructions somewhere. I also cut my finger on the valley pan gasket!!! Ouch! The best way to get it to line up is to use some wooden dowels or something like that and put them in the bolt holes on the engine and then slide the intake down on the dowels. Worked for me.

[SpruceMoose]

as i recall, mine only had the 3 ports also. and toss the rubber end seals away. rtv is the ticket. btw, did you swap the thin metal shield from the old manifold to the new one??? i didnt have to, cause i bought a used manifold with one already attached.

[Scruffy]

Porkchop,
Yeah, I believe you're right when you say to toss the rubber ends. They look to funky to work anyway. I was planning on the dowel deal but the bolt hole are at an angle facing slightly in, I wouldn't be able to slid the intake on it if I places the dowels on both sides. I suppose I'll just be real careful. Careful around that valley pan gasket too, that things nothing but an overgrown razor from hell.


SpruceMoose,
I wonder what difference will be noticed with this coolant passage block. I never had a problem with overheating, now's not the time to start. As for the heat shield, I did have to swap it from my old intake (I could have that recycled into a couple subarus BTW, it weighs a ton!). I had to make some cuts with tin snips and there are 1/2" gaps in on side in a couple places between the shield and the intake. This is what I get for working on my 4th beer with using tinsnips.
I can only hope it has no real effect.


In retrospect, I am thinking more and more that those cursed rubber end gaskets where responsible for my dismal defeat today.
I am gonna buy some MGD tonight (for the inevitable stress involved) and give it another shot in the morning...

Gotta have this thing running in two weeks.

[ibnfe]

Definately toss the end seals and used black rtv. The drivers side rear water passage is supposed to be blocked off since there is no provision for rear water crossover. The passenger side would be blocked as well if it weren't for the heater tube. It would be nice if there was a port drivers side rear as well to allow rear crossover for improved cooling. Someone on the board did just that by modifying, but I don't have the tools to weld an aluminum bung there The two passages on the front are the return ports to the thermostat. Make sure you wait a full day for the rtv to cure when you install it before you fire it up too! Oh yeah, my valley pan gasket claimed my left middle finger just behind the nail [img]redface.gif[/img] I got so mad I trampled it, then had to buy another! The nail is just now starting to grow back... As far as the alignment goes, there are some small lips on the head that the edge of the intake sits under. If it's a tight fit, the edges of the intake might be hanging on those. Just something else to check... Good Luck

[Yaz]

dont keep them, i did and i had to pull the intake and take them off because of a water leak.... as for the pan, haha i didnt cut myself and the way i droped mine in was by holding it by the center and making sure that the front was inline and when it was close to the block making sure the bolt holes were centered in the opening..

[Stuka]

I disagree with ditching the rubber ends. I have had my intake on for several months, just used the rubber ends, only put rtv around the water jackets, and ZERO (as in NO) leaks. Everything is dry as can be. I wrote a how to a while back. If you do it right, the rubber ends work better then RTV by far, and will last much longer. Especially since over time oil will eat at RTV, and cause leaks to develope.

P.S. I didnt get cut by my valley pan thankfully [img]smile.gif[/img]

[ August 05, 2001: Message edited by: Stuka ]

[JOECOOL]

Thats why you should always test mount it first before you apply any sillycone. Oh I ditched the rubber ends too on the second time since the first time they slipped out like oily tounges. yup silicone (black RTV is best).

[Crazy_Jeepman]

BLACK RTV is oil resistant, it will last! I have a 360 with Black RTV at each end of intake as well as valve cover NO LEAKS, 2 years old now. I just did the same thing with my rebuilt 360 I put on a new Edelbrock Performer threw away the rubber ends laid a nice thick bead of BLACK RTV and let sit for about an hour set down the intake torqued it down, I never had any trouble lining up holes nor did I cut myself on the intake gasket. If it mages you feel any better I cut myself today on a front brake backing plate nice cut to LOTS OF BLOOD!!!! Good Luck

[Stuka]

Well.....lets just say that both ways work then ;p

I have done alot of engines with the black rubbers and zero leaks. And people seam to say that black rtv works....soooo....both work [img]smile.gif[/img]

[Scruffy]

Thanks for all the replies. This morning (in about 2 hours at 7:00am) I plan to go to AutoZone for some black RTV sealant. Got plenty of red, but plumb out of black.

One more question. The instructions furnished by Edelbrock claim I should "tack brush" some sealant around the intake openings... I wonder if this is really necessary. I figured a good bead around the water passages on both sides should be sufficient.

I am gonna toss those wicked rubber ends for sure now, I am convinced that's why the intake wouldn't seat correctly.

I already have a Bic lighter with their name on it. It will be my yearly sacrifice to the Jeep gods.
Thanks again.

[Ralph]

I've installed intake manifolds with and without the rubber ends, and I agree that both methods work well.

Something I've never tried before, though I noticed it when I -- gulp! -- read the instructions during a recent job, was that you're supposed to attach the rubber endpieces to the engine block with rubber cement before doing the rest of the work. Has anyone actually followed these instructions?

(Go ahead, I won't find you less manly for admitting you read the instructions. Just think of it as cheating, and you'll feel good about it!)

[Iron Horse]

Instructions???? What are in-struk-chuns??

[ August 06, 2001: Message edited by: Iron Horse ]

[porkchop]

I read them. It comes from working on Helo's. Things are always changing so I need to be sure. If you also read the instructions with the rubber end pieces, it says to trim off some rubber from the ends of them and then use a little cement to keep them in place. If you don't do this they will come out after time. This is the problem most are having.