Getting parts together to change the shifter seal on the 727

[serehill]

I hear this is no fun. Any tips hints or shortcuts on how to do this with the tranny still in rig??? Any special tools? I have some seal picks but that will be a precarious position. I know pulling the seal will be fun. In reading I saw it is recommended to pull the valve body & some say you don't. I'm wanting to not remove the valve body. The seal is leaking when parked.

[Ristow]

put me in the pull the valve body cdategory. there is a seal for the TV shaft to replace as well. good luck getting to it in the trans. and good luck propery installing the main seal with the valve body in place.

quicker to drop the VB....

[serehill]

Thanks Mike

I don't mess with trannies & I did buy both seals. One appears to be an O ring. I may have to outsource this then. I have never jacked with autos. I have a few manuals. I do agree I don't want to replace just one.

Valve body it is.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9O3lnHMuMA

[Ristow]

it's easy. 8 or 9 screws,remove the clip from the park rod,and drop it out.

[Carnuck]

I take the floor pan off, pressure wash or use carb cleaner around the linkages to make it uber clean. Take a pic of the linkage in park so you know exactly how it goes back. You can use a seal puller to remove it. At least it's not like the earlier 727 cases where the seal MUST come in from the bottom! There is another oring on the linkage pivot that can be leaking too. The pivot for the rear band can leak too.

[serehill]

Thanks Guys any & all input is appreciated.

After researching I'll drop the cross member & remove the valve body.

Any more input would help. it looks pretty straight forward.

[DanHS]

I bought the seal puller tool and it worked fairly well. It was a little hard to get it to grab the seal, and then had to be really careful to keep dirt out, then I used a giant C clamp and a piece of steel plate on the pan to press in the new seal. I did put a faint dent in the pan, probably should have come up with a better way of supporting the C clamp. It hasn't leaked in several years though since doing it.

I'd say pulling the valve body is probably the better way of doing it, but the tool did work pretty well.

[TexasJ10]

After researching I'll drop the cross member & remove the valve body.

Any more input would help. it looks pretty straight forward.

Any chance you can take a few pics when you do this? I have the same problem that that I need to take care of. I was going to pull the tranny and replace all the seals at the same time, but maybe I don't really need to.

[serehill]

Well I didn't take pictures but the video link is pretty close that is in this thread

Recommendation to remove the valve body is solid & the way to do it. The hardest part is learning how to disconnect the park rod.
I dropped the cross member to get more room to work. It is a messy job you can not completely drain the tranny. The valve body retains fluid also the there is eternal drainage from the tranny. It finally stops about 30 minutes after you pull the valve body. The shaft was fairly clean but I took some 1000 grit & cleaned it anyway. I did replace both seals on the shaft.

Now the park shaft disconnect. After doing a lot of research the way to do this is to put the tranny in low before you start. This will expose the clip you need to disconnect to get the valve body out on the shift assembly there is a rod that goes towards the rear of the tranny. Looking up on the top of the shift assembly inside the transmission follow the rod coming out of the back to the shifter mechanism. Then look for the simple c clip that attaches the rod assembly. Remove the c clip. You can also attach it back in before you bolt it in. That's not how I did it. I set the rod in the hole then bolted a couple of bolts in them popped then popped the c clip in. You could pull the park rod after you remove the Valve body but to me this was easier.
Removing the seal & replacing is easy this way. I did use the bolt suggestion. After removing the old seal I basically seated the new seal then put a bolt & washer through the hole & a nut a washer on the bottom & tightened it to pull the seal in.
There is a second seal on the TV shaft you should replace too. With the VB out there is a c clip & a washer. Remove them then pop it out & replace.
You have to remove the levers on the side of the tranny dropping the cross member helps. Also you can't get these wrong they are notched so they only go on one way. I did not remove the linkages I just disconnected them at the shaft & moved them out of the way. There was nothing to realign.

There are 12 bolts holding the VB in it comes right out there is a spring from the accumulator sitting on top of the Vb which sits in a obvious place & the video shows it. The accumulator stayed in place. You just set the spring in place when reinstalling.

The video shows the park shaft just coming out with the VB. The shaft on mine was connected in the rear & would not just come out. This was really simple & can be easily done in a day. The park shaft was the hardest thing to this & that was really simple once you locate the parts.

I can see where not removing the VB can leave plenty of option not to completely repair this. these 2 videos show all you need to know. There were no special tools involved.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5lMka6L_nGg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c9O3lnHMuMA

transmission seals 11.80
filter & gasket B&M 23.60
transfluid 26.00

[Carnuck]

I leave the park rod attached and the tcase/trans in neutral so I can spin the shaft and pull the rod out.

[NJBattleWagon334]

I just replaced this on my gw about a week ago. I was told picks would get it out with no problem but it didn't work well.check out ebay and look up the chystler transmission shaft seal tool, the tool number is w84206 from performace tools. it is 15 bucks and well worth it. it came out with no problem with that. and I didn't take anything apart just popped the linkages off the shaft was all and just left the tranny in park. good luck!

[serehill]

good deal many ways to skin a cat.

I changed both of the seals & on mine cleaned the tranny changed the filter sanded the shaft since it gets rusty & crapped out. I was concerned there was no real way to clean both shafts & it was justified there had been a lot of crap in the seal I didn't want in the tranny. The shaft & crap on it is what trashed the seal A tranny tech told me if I didn't emery cloth the shaft the seal wouldn't last long. The shaft was as rough as the emery cloth. I epoxied the shaft before I installed it. It's good to know what's in there & my Magnafine tranny filter is doing it's job. I was really curious about that.

Just my way & opinions nothing more. But I don't want to repeat it.

[letank]

one more done

As said above Rick is right, you are better off being ready for the continous dumping of trany fluid after removing the trans filter and loosening the valve body.

PUT THE TRANS IN NEUTRAL, and vehicle on a flat surface with wheel choke

Yes, I bought the tool to extract the shift shaft seal, but the tool did not bite into the interface metal/rubber, so after pounding, using an impact driver to try to drive the f#@er out... it was time to gather buckets and pans... drain trany oil, disconnect the kick down the speed selector rod and the return cooler line in the rear of the trans body so you can move your hands around... it is tight.

When you drop the valve body, a large spring will pop out with its holder -Edit: The Accumulator-... which may spring out of sight....

I did not bother to move the parking rod, left the Valve body to dangle and drip all it could, while I attended the seal removal, the pick was useless, a 9/16 open end wrench was perfect to pop the seal out from above.

My shift shaft was very oily, no rust, but I still did a rub with 1000 grit wet/dry emery cloth.
Installed the new seal after cleaning, it was tricky as the lack of space give you a poor line of sight... but after a while it works... lube the seal and pop the VB back not forgetting the reinstall the servo cylinder and its spring

Time for a shower and a beer... will fill up tomorrow... may be... still need to reinstall the front driveshaft.

[gsmikie]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmission-seal-tool-shift-shaft-727-904-mopar-chrysler-plymouth-jeep-puller/141996189930?epid=2164976435&hash=item210fa1e8ea:g:YQEAAOSwIzNXOz-g

[letank]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Transmissio...EAAOSwIzNXOz-g

Thank you, got the same tool as well, W 84026, but I was unable to grab the seal. I checked the bore of the tool and the seal, with the seal removed the ID of the tool matches the ID of the seal.