Tailgate window stuck

[Beach_Dude]

After pulling apart the opening, while the window was 90%, to lube and oil the gears, I went to lower the window and it wouldn’t lower. So I thought to myself “Hmmm… Maybe I’ll try rolling it up…”

It ends up being that wasn’t the best of ideas either. It rolled up and now I can’t roll it back down! I’m happy that this isn’t a daily driver, but I’d still like to use the tailgate. While diagnosing I've noticed that when I push the switch to have the window go up, the lights dim, therefore there's power. However, the down switch does nothing. Also, the rear (exterior) key swith for the window does nothing (no dimming lights). Could they be related? Should I just order a new swith for the exterior?

I know there are some technical posts on ifsja.org, but is anyone familiar with this problem? Are the parts still available, is there another motor that I could upgrade to in the process of pulling it apart?

Just generic ideas if anyone has any.

And as always, thank you guys for your information. By the way, here’s a picture of the ‘Giant Orange’ with its original paint; I just wiped off the dust to see how it looked:

[chr1s]

http://www.ifsja.org/tech/tailgate/index.html

[brielly]

Since the window is up you can access the motor. Disconnect it and jump it to a battery to make it go up and down. I just dealt with this over the weekend and mine turned out to be the safety switch. I bypassed it and now the dash switch works fine. Maybe you will be lucky too.

[Beach_Dude]

I don't know how it could be the safety switch if the 'up' position draws power from the circuit. Also, after reviewing one of the trouble shooting guides, at the end it references that the exterior switch could be bad, as mine is (evidently).

If I recall, the safety switch disconnects all power, or at least the 'up' motor setting', from the electric motor. Correct? I have plenty of 12awg wire. So I'll run some to the batery, place a temp switch between them, then try powering the motor.

If I reverse the polairty will it lower the window?

As always, thanks for the ideas and help!

[Blake]

I would love to see a write-up, complete with pics.

[Chrome]

If the glass is part of the way down pull out gently on the top of the glass. My Cherokee does this sometimes and the culprit is the inside tailgate release handle. The hardware for the handle sticks out just enough to catch the metal track that the glass sits in. A gentle pull will move the track just enough to slip over the hardware.

EDIT: Yes, you can reverse the polarity if power is the problem.

[Beach_Dude]

I'm about 95% sure that the problem is electrical/motor.

As said, I can tell that power is being drawn from the circuit because the light dims when I use the 'up' switch, but nothing is drawn from the 'down' switch. Also, as said, the exterior switch doesn't work.

Furthermore, the window had gone up and down many times without the tailgate being opened. The tailgate hasn't been opened in at least two years.

To test the motor, I have to ask this again though.

I can't see the wires running to the motor since thy're behind the mount/mechnaisms. Does anyone know where the "Tailgate Switch" is located? Is it built into the motor, behind the exterior key switch or somewhere else?

http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section3.pdf

Section 3 - 86 of TSM : http://noltek.com/Section3.pdf

I'm going to follow the manual, then give a go at ifsja.org's tech posts.

Wish me luck!

[Daddio]

My key switch in the tailgate went bad and it had similar symptoms as yours.

Do you have a 12v source like a portable jump start battery with a power outlet?

If so, you can find the plug to the motor and unplug it. Next carefully take the 2 wires and touch them to the plug contacts going to the window motor. Reverse them if it doesn't go the correct way.

I'm about 95% sure that the problem is electrical/motor.

As said, I can tell that power is being drawn from the circuit because the light dims when I use the 'up' switch, but nothing is drawn from the 'down' switch. Also, as said, the exterior switch doesn't work.

Furthermore, the window had gone up and down many times without the tailgate being opened. The tailgate hasn't been opened in at least two years.

To test the motor, I have to ask this again though.

I can't see the wires running to the motor since thy're behind the mount/mechnaisms. Does anyone know where the "Tailgate Switch" is located? Is it built into the motor, behind the exterior key switch or somewhere else?

http://oljeep.com/gw/76_tsm/Section3.pdf

Section 3 - 86 of TSM : http://noltek.com/Section3.pdf

I'm going to follow the manual, then give a go at ifsja.org's tech posts.

Wish me luck!

[Dumpy]

The safety switch is on the drivers side, on the side of the tailgate. Unfortunately, the tailgate has to be down to access it. In order to bypass it, you will need to do like others have said and go directly from the battery. The motor is located behind the big gear on the right (you are looking at it from the inside, of course. The wires are on the top of the motor. In order to safely test the motor so that you don't get the glass stuck down (no promises), pull the motor. Be very careful. 1st thing to do would be to jam the gears to keep them from slamming down and relieving you of your extra fingers. There are holes in the gears you can use. 2) remove the screws holding in the motor. If should come out with the gear. Now you can test it form the battery without it closing and getting stuck. If it works, you need to reinstall the motor, and make sure you connect wires on both terminals! And make sure they are secure!!! If they are in the way, the glass could pull them off and disconnect them, leaving you to try to make the connection with a coat hanger. Ask me how i know. Use the battery to drop the gate, and bypass the safety switch. Two screws, pull the wires, and splice them. This is also a good time to see if electricity is getting through those wires with a cheapo test light. Use the battery to raise the glass again (with the gate up or the glass could fall out) then test with your original wires.

[thome]

cheap fix

It sounds like your key switch is broken. I was having the same issue with my switch until the window just stopped working. I've read that when the key switch breaks it causes the inside switch to burn out. I'm sure if thats 100% true, but that is the order my switches when out.

http://www.ipendia.com/ArticleRead.aspx?id=2138

My window was stuck in the down position until I found that site. The hardest part is making the bracket. Make sure you get all the material and tools before you start and it should take less than an hour.

I couldnt find the Pollack switch, but Cole Hersee makes an identical switch, model #: CH-55065-03. I was able to pick it up at O'Reilly's.

[Brizio]

Tailgate window stuck

Welcome to the club!

[Beach_Dude]

Welcome to the club!

Why thank you!

I'm going to see if I can get some work done this afternoon. If I can't, I'll be sure to take a bunch of pictures and writeup something simple to describe the diagnosis procedure.

You guys have given me a ton of info. Thank you as always!

[Beach_Dude]

Want to ask another question before I pull the entire tailgate apart. I'd rather have the parts ready.

Is the 77' tailgate window switch the same as the 79-91 tailgate window switch? I'm not referring to the safety switch, but rather the "tailgate window switch".

Everything I've read so far uses the "grand wagoneer" tailgate switch for repair/replacement.

I plan on doing a pretty good write with pictures while pulling it apart if I have to, which it sounds to me I have to.

Thanks again for all your help guys!

[Beach_Dude]

So, I took a few hours from my slow Thursday to try and diagnose the tailgate window today. Let me use the pictures to discuss what I did and why I did it. Sorry about the out of focus pictures. They're from my iphone.

First off, I had to diagnose the front switch to verify there was power to the switch, verify the resistance when the switch is in use for both the up and down position.

Power from 12g Red:



The Switch:




Ohms (resistance) test:






Since all seemed to be fine with the switch, I crawled under the rear portion of the jeep, removed the spare tire, pulled all the wires away from the frame to verify ‘what is what’. It was pretty simple to spot the power lead because it’s the only Red 12g wire on the harness.


What a mess:






So I connected the ground to the ground wire, which is at the rear of the vehicle, near the bumper, bolted to the chassis, disconnected the Red 12g power lead, and then tested. What do you know… no power. I played around a little, rubbed the ground with a wire brush, scrapped it, moved the live test lead back and forth; still no power.


No power to Red 12g:






However, while down there I did take a few other pictures to show you guys the wires from the Dash Switch circuit. They’re the Tan and Brown wires. Also, take note on the rubber conduit that goes straight up into the tailgate from below the vehicle.




Circuit from Dash Switch (Brown & Tan):



Rubber conduit that takes circuit to tailgate:





Conduit leading to tailgate:





Since there was power in the front, and not the rear, I switched the breakers/fuses, repeasted, and still no power. The only other option was to test the wire harness that connects to the firewall/breaker/fuse panel, that run the length of the frame to reach what I showed before.

What do you know… They were covered in sludge. So I took some carb cleaner, sprayed a little, took an old toothbrush, scrubbed a little, used a blower to dry it, used some light socket lube, and all is fine!



Sludge covered terminals:






I studied the whole system quite well before tackling this. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to shoot me a PM and I can give you a few good pointers on how to diagnose what’s wrong, electrically that is. If you need help with the mechanics, there are the tech references posted within ifsja.org.

Best of luck and willing to help.