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I have one that I plan on using. I also have a Holley Street Dominator intake but am unsure which one to use. Suggestions?
-Jonny B. 1979 Cherokee Golden Eagle - UNDER CONSTRUCTION
7" Alcan springs, BJ's HD shackles - 35x12.5x15 BFG Mud Terrains
AMC 401 - Pro-Flo 4 EFI
NV4500/NWF BB/NP205 - Triple Stick'd
F D44 - 4.10, Eaton E-Locker
R M23 - 4.10, Detroit Locker
1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts 1979 Cherokee Chief - Parts 1979 Wagoneer - Sold 1981 Cherokee Chief - Cubed
The Street Dominator is good for gobs of low end torque but will out of steam by 5K. I would step down to the Edelbrock Performer grind type of cam if you are going to use that Intake.
It all depends on what you want from your engine. I like a smooth running no issues engine in a 4x4 I'll do my hot rodding in cars.
I built the 360 for my J10 with a comp 260 cam, KB hyperutectic pistons , (around 8.8 -1 ) performer intake and a 1406 edelbrock carb. I like it, just what I wanted for a close to stock build.
A 268H type cam would be the limit unless you want a choppy idle and stall convertors. pistons for the 360 are much more limited in options than I expected. to get 9.5 you'll probably have to go with Bulltear or something like that. and remember 9.5 is going to take a very minimum of super at the filling station.
I'm in Golden, CO and have to deal with emissions and stock setups. nothing says not stock like BS edelbrock logos everywhere.
A little off subject, but could someone grind off the logos, paint the manifold to match the engine, and sneak through inspection?
By now these trucks probably outdate alot of the inspectors.
Just Empty Every Pocket
1988 Grand Wagoneer
AMC 360
727 TF
No modifications so far... Yeah, I'll probably keep it stock.
A little off subject, but could someone grind off the logos, paint the manifold to match the engine, and sneak through inspection?
Why, no! That would be against the law!
I've heard that some unethical people reproduce an as-cast surface on the manifold where the incriminating evidence was ground away by laying a coarse sanding disk on the part and striking it with a hammer. Apparently this is pretty convincing once covered in a coat of OEM paint.
How these outlaws sleep at night, we may never know.
'85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread
Did you know?Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.
I've heard that some unethical people reproduce an as-cast surface on the manifold where the incriminating evidence was ground away by laying a coarse sanding disk on the part and striking it with a hammer. Apparently this is pretty convincing once covered in a coat of OEM paint.
How these outlaws sleep at night, we may never know.
Since I moved to the United States, I don't have to deal with that level of mechanical interrogation.
'85 J20 Old Man Truck, bought @ 65K miles - not great, but better than walking.
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
High quality junk here: intro thread and slow build thread
Did you know?Willys is just Willis spelled differently, but pronounced the same. Neither Willy nor his apostrophe are involved.
I wonder what kind of course sanding disk would be needed? I mean just as a idle thought
1980 J-10<br />Rusty\'s 4 inch lift<br />2 inch body lift,<br />35 in Xterrains on J20 axles<br />4:30 gears<br />Detroits<br />In-Cab cage thru the dash
Not that I know anything about that sort of thing...
I have de-embossed and painted a couple of intakes for my own personal use. I would grind off the embossment then sand blast the surface to make it look like the rest of it.
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