Stock wiring connectors pic/diagram?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • SkylinePCG
    258 I6
    • Jan 11, 2005
    • 263

    Stock wiring connectors pic/diagram?

    I’m looking for a “road map” of underhood wiring, with visuals of connectors and how the lines were routed from the factory. It may be a pipe dream, but does this exist anywhere?
    Last edited by SkylinePCG; 11-15-2018, 07:25 AM.
    1980 Cherokee WT

    360, 727, 219, 35s
    Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

    Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...
  • joe
    • Apr 28, 2000
    • 22392

    #2
    The diagrams/schematics are in the factory shop manuals (TSM's) and some years are online at http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/GW_wiring.html
    Don't know of any pictorials of the connectors or specific routing??
    joe
    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

    Comment

    • tgreese
      • May 29, 2003
      • 11682

      #3
      I think the only year TSM with a "pictorial" diagram of the wiring was 1972. All the other years have some kind of schematic diagram. The usual approach is to find something you can identify and trace the wires through from there, either electrically or by following them by eye through the loom. Follow along on the schematic. The schematic typically shows conectors and splices, along with wire colors and sizes. "TR" means trace, a stripe on the wire.

      If you have specific things or wires that you can't identify, post up a pcture and ask for help.
      Tim Reese
      Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
      Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
      Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
      GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
      ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

      Comment

      • nograin
        304 AMC
        • Dec 19, 2000
        • 2286

        #4
        Sounds like you want 'harness routing' as well a wiring diagrams.
        There's far less routing illustrations. I've found some in the Factory Parts Books. Once you have a harness part number, you can sometimes find a better scan from one of the on-line Chrysler-Jeep dealers.

        Best references for original layout is lower milage or unmolested original vehicles. Some sales lit and magazine tests from back in the day have under hood photos.

        In many cases, I've made my own sketches. Just did speedometer cable routing. A couple months ago I did the tailgate - trailer - rearlights.

        I've posted basic main feed diagrams with ignition and headlights on this page.

        I don't think I have posted any routing but do have a pretty fair number of pictures from my '85. What are you looking for?
        '85 Grand Wagoneer
        360 727auto, NP229
        body by beer (PO)
        carries wood inside
        no "wood" outside
        My other car is a fish

        Comment

        • SkylinePCG
          258 I6
          • Jan 11, 2005
          • 263

          #5
          Thank you guys. “Routing” was a better word for what I was thinking.

          And that “oljeep” link was very helpful. Not exactly a photo, but there are visuals of the connectors, and that should be close enough to get started.

          When the snow stops...
          1980 Cherokee WT

          360, 727, 219, 35s
          Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

          Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...

          Comment

          • SkylinePCG
            258 I6
            • Jan 11, 2005
            • 263

            #6
            Ok here’s one that I’m unclear of on the oljeep diagram. This red wire with the white tracer (purple is AC compressor); the unterminated one is the coil +, and will be soldered into the TBI harness. The other one though, if I’m reading the schematic correctly, is either the “capacitor jumper (grid 3A,)” or “anti-diesel and choke feed (grid 3B on the 1979 wire diagram on oljeep,)”

            Either way, I don’t think it’s getting used with EFI. The carbs gone, so no choke, and the EFI Coil has no accommodation for it.

            Am I missing anything, or can I clip remove this wire from the harness?

            1980 Cherokee WT

            360, 727, 219, 35s
            Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

            Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...

            Comment

            • babywag
              out of order
              • Jun 08, 2005
              • 10286

              #7
              None are "needed" for TBI.

              Take note, the stock coil wire is a poor choice if using it unless you REMOVE the resistance wire. The factory Duraspark module power wire is a better candidate IMHO.
              Tony
              88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

              Comment

              • SkylinePCG
                258 I6
                • Jan 11, 2005
                • 263

                #8
                Can you expand on why that ones a poor choice? I’m just going on Bill Hamilton’s direction on this. Also I don’t have my notes in front of me at the moment, so he may have something in there regarding the resistance wire, but that’s not ringing a bell.
                1980 Cherokee WT

                360, 727, 219, 35s
                Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

                Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...

                Comment

                • babywag
                  out of order
                  • Jun 08, 2005
                  • 10286

                  #9
                  Originally posted by SkylinePCG
                  Can you expand on why that ones a poor choice? I’m just going on Bill Hamilton’s direction on this. Also I don’t have my notes in front of me at the moment, so he may have something in there regarding the resistance wire, but that’s not ringing a bell.
                  The coil wire is a poor choice because the resistance wire reduces voltage in ignition "run" position. So again unless you remove the resistance wire it's a poor choice to use.
                  Tony
                  88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                  Comment

                  • SkylinePCG
                    258 I6
                    • Jan 11, 2005
                    • 263

                    #10
                    You beat me back here... I went back through his instructions and he makes it abundantly clear that the resistor is to be removed.

                    What I found though is that one if the starter solenoids small post connections shares the resistor wire, so I had to reconsider my first plan of cutting it out and soldering in a long length of wire to match the rest.

                    I instead will be using that “anti diesel/choke” line to feed the ignition circuit, since it’s the same gauge, ended in the same place by the coil, and shared the same terminal as the resistor wire.
                    1980 Cherokee WT

                    360, 727, 219, 35s
                    Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

                    Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...

                    Comment

                    • babywag
                      out of order
                      • Jun 08, 2005
                      • 10286

                      #11
                      Be sure to test for voltage when cranking/key in start position.
                      Whatever wire you utilize must have voltage in both start & run.

                      As mentioned above factory Duraspark wire one of them has both.
                      The other just in run position.
                      It's what I've always used and suggested to others.

                      If you remove the resistance wire from harness you'll have to add a diode to alternator wire or engine will stay running when turn key off.
                      Tony
                      88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                      Comment

                      • tgreese
                        • May 29, 2003
                        • 11682

                        #12
                        Originally posted by babywag
                        Be sure to test for voltage when cranking/key in start position.
                        Whatever wire you utilize must have voltage in both start & run.

                        As mentioned above factory Duraspark wire one of them has both.
                        The other just in run position.
                        It's what I've always used and suggested to others.

                        If you remove the resistance wire from harness you'll have to add a diode to alternator wire or engine will stay running when turn key off.
                        You are mixing two different resistance wires. The resistance wire to the coil limits current to the coil when the ignition is in the "run" position. This prevents overheating of the coil and/or module, depending on the application. Tony suggests that you do not use this current-limited circuit as the power feed (not the switched coil feed) for your ignition module, whatever it may be.

                        The wire from the ignition to the exciter terminal of the alternator can backfeed through the ignition switch, preventing a shut down. Jeep also uses a resistance wire here to limit the backfeed current so the engine will shut off. A diode in this position also works.
                        Last edited by tgreese; 11-19-2018, 08:00 AM.
                        Tim Reese
                        Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                        Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                        Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                        GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                        ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                        Comment

                        • babywag
                          out of order
                          • Jun 08, 2005
                          • 10286

                          #13
                          When I initially converted my '90 to TBI it stayed running when the key was turned off. Rather than tearing into the harness, I just added a diode.
                          Same issue as adding an MSD 6 box...

                          His mileage may vary because we don't know what his ignition setup is.
                          Tony
                          88 GW, 67 J3000, 07 Magnum SRT8

                          Comment

                          • SkylinePCG
                            258 I6
                            • Jan 11, 2005
                            • 263

                            #14
                            My ignition setup?

                            Stock ICM is out.
                            TFI coil is out.
                            Stock wiring to distributor is out.

                            Tiny GM ICM, canister coil, and Distributor all driven by the ECM.
                            1980 Cherokee WT

                            360, 727, 219, 35s
                            Holley 4bbl, Edelbrock performer intake/cam, TFI, Hedman LT headers, HB brakes, aaaand GW seats!

                            Still on the shelf... Hamilton EFI, Transgo TF-2...

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X