Inner Quarter Panel source?

[JoggerFogger]

This is the only rust on the rig, and I can't ignore it. It's behind the rear tire on the driver's side.

It's a simple piece, but does anyone make this part so I don't have to?
Is it called an "inner quarter panel"?

This will be my first attempt at cutting out and welding in body parts, so I figure this is a good spot to get my experience (screw up).

Thanks in advance.
-Kevin

[babywag]

A new replacement panel is not available.

Used or DIY are the only options.

I've done it, but also replaced the inner wheel house, inner/outer dogleg, that piece, and outer quarter panel.
That little drop panel was a total PITA, even with the quarter removed.



Be advised it is not an easy repair, these are kind of a jigsaw puzzle assembly for the rear inner/outer panels. They're all tied together, and IIRC that panel wraps around to rear as well.
Couple different ways to accomplish, but if the rust isn't horrid, I'd get a donor used one, and just cut/replace the portions that need it.
The panel is completely hidden from view so cosmetically not a big deal if you screw up/or don't care how it looks.

[JoggerFogger]

Thanks for the advice. I figured as much after searching a little.
I think the PO didn't want to deal with it, so he painted some rust stop, then filled the whole quarter panel interior with spray foam. I painfully dug out about 10 gallons of fist sized spray foam balls as I cut them out with my pocket knife. About a shoebox of dirt clods.

Then started drawing lines and cutting stuff out. Yes, this part goes back around some supports and back. Everything else around it is in great shape. I sat there for a while just poking around with a screwdriver making plans.

Here's my proposed plan:. I'm going to cut out all the rust and leave whatever is still good. Then form some pans to put in place. Welding them in is going to be almost impossible. Plus I'd ruin all the good paint. I'm just going to use some "right stuff" rubber gasket maker and stainless rivets.

I'd have to cut apart too much to do this right. It's so small and inconsequential, I just want to make it better and stop the cancer. This is by no means a show car.

I don't know anything about body work, but I have watched a lot of TV about it. It seems like some manufacturers are gluing a lot of parts together now anyway.

What do you think?

[babywag]

I wouldn?t use adhesive in that area, or for that kind of repair.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Panel adhesive is what you need. It is stronger than the metal you are putting together. It has anti corrosion properties blended in and if you try to pull apart a properly prepared glue joint, the metal will tear before the adhesive fails. To make a long story short, the adhesive will never fail.

Prep the part to fit exactly where you want it. Have the ability to clamp and secure all parts of it after applying the adhesive. Then wait. The most time consuming part of this project is removing the old metal (high spots) and preparing the joints by sanding with an air sander or wire wheel or even sand paper by hand.

Panel adhesive is expensive as well as the applicator gun. It it suits your needs for not wrecking paint, attaching difficult areas to reach, etc, then it is a very good choice.

When you have finished your repair including paint everywhere you can get it, generously spray "Fluid Film inside the entire area and put your interior panels back on. Fluid Film's web page will explain why this is a great long term treatment for avoiding future corrosion.

https://www.fluid-film.com/

[JoggerFogger]

Thank you guys for your ideas. It makes me feel a lot better about doing this.

I wasn't very clear on my plans. Because nobody will ever see this part, I was planning on drilling out the spot welds and using stainless rivets. I'd paint everything with rust stop then use sealant between the panels before I rivet.


I still have to figure out how I'm going to even cut this little part out. My 5" grinder/cut off wheel surely won't fit.



I'm hoping I can cut a sheet 1/2" larger on the top for a lap rivet, then flange out the bottom to match up with where the spot welds are and rivet there as well. I might have to buy a dremel tool to get to this weird spot behind the panel support.

[JoggerFogger]

This is not the first time I've realized this, but I can see more in the pics than I can in real life. More detail, more of the seams, more of how it's put together. Crazy. I should do this more often. I think the flash on my cellphone helps a ton.

-Kevin

[acct21]

I still have to figure out how I'm going to even cut this little part out. My 5" grinder/cut off wheel surely won't fit.

Sawzall with a good quality metal blade. Keep the blade tight up against the edge, and go slow -- so the flap you are cutting doesn't oscillate back-and-forth.

[JoggerFogger]

I think I got it all cleaned up. Chisels, screwdrivers, air grinder, die grinder, angle grinder, hammers. I was really close to cutting this funky square support off and attaching it back later, but worked around it.





Now I have to learn how to form this piece that goes back in.
This makes me think that I should put some sort of protection in place so it doesn't happen again. Or is rust stop spray paint going to be enough?
I'm thinking about some mud flaps too. I think all the mud holds moisture and contributes to rust. I'm really amazed at how little rust this rig has after 45 years.

Thanks for the comments it really helps.
-Kevin

[JoggerFogger]

So I'm making this up as I go. Created a CAD template.



Transferred it to some 14g sheet with tabs to form and cut it on the shear.


I used a chop blade to cut out the tabs, and scored the metal where I want to bend (vice and hammer).


This is as far as I got last night. I think it's going to work. I know that welding would be the best, but the rivets act a lot like the spot welds that were originally there. The metal is so thin, I don't want to burn the paint, etc. etc. And I'm using stainless, which isn't a big deal, but I think it will last.
Q: Why stainless? A: because I work in a stainless shop, and I have tons of scrap.

[SJTD]

Don't forget some drain holes. These areas rust out because the drain holes get plugged and the dirt and other junk in the cavity holds water.

Same as the kick panel vents up front. Need to keep them cleaned out.

[JoggerFogger]

Don't forget some drain holes. These areas rust out because the drain holes get plugged and the dirt and other junk in the cavity holds water.

Same as the kick panel vents up front. Need to keep them cleaned out.

Thank you!

I was thinking about that. It sure looks like there's a rust line where water filled the area and rusted it from the inside out.

Just a hole? maybe a tube?

I'll have to look at the other side and the vents up front to see what the de facto drain method might be.

-Kevin

[babywag]

YES! Drain hole needed...that is exactly why they rust as stated above.
They plug up, water & dirt collect = rust.
The PO filling it up with spray foam did you no favors, and probably just made it worse/rust faster.

You will also need to find/remedy the water leak. Usually it is from the rear cargo window, sometimes from the roof rack mounting holes. Or both.

All you need is a small opening for a drain hole. A slightly raised(or lowered) area unattached to lower panel is easy enough to incorporate.

If you're not going to weld, and using rivets, use adhesive, it'll seal it up and protect from rust.

[JoggerFogger]

will do. Thanks for the help.

I'm sure there's leaks in all the doors, windows, etc. Phase 2 of this build will be replacing all the seals and stuff.

So I started inspecting the other side (also filled with spray foam) and I noticed some rust under the paint on the outside. I also noticed some bondo down low. Then as I was looking more, I noticed that the spray foam bulged out the quarter panel over the wheel. Great. Digging out that sprayfoam was tortuous.

Luckily the inner panel (that I just replaced on the driver's side) looks good on the passenger side. Hopefully the little rust I see is not full on cancer.

-Kevin

[SJTD]

Should've mentioned the rockers too. They have the same type of drains if I recall correctly. A couple raised areas about an inch long in the seam between the inner vertical wall and the outer skin.

Rockers aren't so prone to filling with junk from above.