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  #1  
Old 03-19-2008, 11:29 AM
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s10 Gearbox swap-good company

Lee manufacturing. 818-768-0371

I called them about the adapters for a gear box swap, and instead of selling me two adapters he just told me that the lines will fit & work fine when switching boxes.

I have a 1997 4x4 S10 box coming ( $50 shipped). It is only 63 miles from me, but with gas the way it is it was cheaper to UPS it!

My driveway will be all confused without PS fluid ( who am I kidding: ATF) leaking all over it.
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  #2  
Old 03-19-2008, 12:02 PM
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Wow, if he'll sell them for $50 a pop that's an awesome deal. Is that rebuilt or just pulled off a truck?


aa
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  #3  
Old 03-19-2008, 12:04 PM
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That's about what I was selling them for when I got some for people on here.

If you're putting this in a '79, remember you have to convert to the metric o-ring style hoses.
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  #4  
Old 03-19-2008, 02:33 PM
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$50 is a used part with shipping. It is a modern-type yard with everything removed and stored, so it might be in decent shape.

SOmeplaces are wanting $150 for a scrap yard box

Now I am confused again. I called Lee Manufacturing & explained that I wanted to put the new box on the '79 & need the adapters to make the original hoses ( only about 1 yr old) work with the new box. He said that for '79 & newer nothing was needed but to bolt it on?? He said that the fittings would work.

Help?
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  #5  
Old 03-19-2008, 04:22 PM
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They are wrong, Metric 0-ring is 1980+.
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  #6  
Old 03-19-2008, 07:48 PM
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Check your fittings. '79/'80 being the change-over years anything is possible. More than likely, though, you need the fittings.


aa
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  #7  
Old 03-19-2008, 08:11 PM
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It's 1980, but it's also not that big a deal to get that one line made up (the high pressure one).
I just had my HB lines done at a local rad shop for like $30 - $35 each.
I forget, one was more, one was less.
Anywho, it's not a big deal.
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  #8  
Old 03-20-2008, 01:05 AM
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I guess I will try to call Lee again tomorrow. My hoses on it are less than a year old. If I can get adapters for $15 or so, I'd rather do that.

If I need to get hoses made ( I've never done this) will they have the fittings or will I need to bring them some stuff to work with?
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  #9  
Old 03-20-2008, 05:45 AM
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What is a little misleading about the adaptors to a metric o-ring port is that you are still going to need to cut the end of your brake hose off. You will need to put a metric threaded nut on the end of it and then put a flare back on it before you can hook it up to the steering box. You can have that done at a shop or you can buy a flare tool, if you buy the tool... get the one that tightens with a wrench and put it in a vise. Just don't forget to put the metric threaded nut back on the hose before you re-flare it.
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  #10  
Old 03-20-2008, 07:47 AM
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You can change the fitting on the back of the pump/res with a new oring one from a newer vehicle to work with the oring hoses and save some cash. If you do there is a surprise that wants to shoot out if you are careful in swapping.
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  #11  
Old 03-20-2008, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pb
You can change the fitting on the back of the pump/res with a new oring one from a newer vehicle to work with the oring hoses and save some cash. If you do there is a surprise that wants to shoot out if you are careful in swapping.

Are you positive on that? The pump is stamped "metric" those valves come out of... those external threads would be metric I'd think...
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  #12  
Old 03-20-2008, 11:10 AM
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It screwed right in for me. I'll try to go out and look since it's been a few years since I swapped it but no problems/leaks.
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1975 Wagoneer DD
360 with large cap ecm controlled HEI, TBI EFI, Comp Cam 260H, Edelbrock Performer Intake, CS130 alt, 4 row radiator, S10 steering box, QT w/LO, WT 3.54 D44 axles. Rancho 9000X's, ~4" lift, Caddy rear discs.
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  #13  
Old 03-20-2008, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elliott
Are you positive on that? The pump is stamped "metric" those valves come out of... those external threads would be metric I'd think...

The one's I've swapped, the pressure line fitting swaps back and forth with no problems, I think only the inside threads for the line itself changed to metric, not the pump. Could probably cross reference the pump pretty easily to make sure there is no difference.
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'82 J-10 Laredo, 360, T-177, 4" Rusty's
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  #14  
Old 03-20-2008, 01:39 PM
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Cool, I was thinking to try that someday... it does not work at the steering box however.
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  #15  
Old 03-23-2008, 05:21 PM
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Anybody got pics of an S10 box in their truck?
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  #16  
Old 03-23-2008, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long&Low
Anybody got pics of an S10 box in their truck?

It looks just like a standard saginaw box...just minus one of the mounting bolts on the frame side.


aa
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  #17  
Old 03-23-2008, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Long&Low
Anybody got pics of an S10 box in their truck?

I'd snap some, but I can see the questions now - "which muddy/rusty part is that?" LOL

It looks almost just like the stock FSJ box except only 3 bolts thru the frame mounts.
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2008, 09:06 PM
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So it is better why??
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  #19  
Old 03-25-2008, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas792
So it is better why??
Most FSJ steering boxes are designed for maximum power assistance at all times, which means at interstate speeds you can almost blow on the wheel & it will change directions. When the S-10 box is centered (i.e, highway speeds), it is firmer - less pump pressure - to help keep your rig pointed straight. But off road or tight street turns it feels alot like the FSJ box. Basically more steering stability for lifted rigs.
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  #20  
Old 03-25-2008, 03:40 PM
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I've heard the best box was the J20 box because of the 2" bore (on the master cylinder?) So the S10 box is better? Does it matter 4x2 or 4x4 and what years? Will it leak less than my FSJ boxes?
My GW box is leaking and a replacement from a yard that is leak free and less "sensitive" at highway speed would be great.
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