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  #1  
Old 02-09-2013, 06:38 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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Tailgate relay wiring Harness. Not a fix a complete make over.

I have completed 10 tailgate relay control systems & I'll be putting more information out on these over the next few days & populate it similar to the headlight harness with details.
Update Coming up on 400 built & sold

I'll complete documentation & have it up tomorrow.

There will be 3 styles available starting out to see where the market goes. These are a complete rewire & a little harder than the headlight harness but well worth the effort. They have been in operation over the last 3 years so they are time tested. There is some info on these in the relayed headlight section.
Type #1 will be a totally hardwired version which will operate like stock switch on the dash & tailgate switch. you can used upgraded switches or your stock switches.
$100.00
Type 2 will be a totally hardwired with a wireless remote. It will have all the options of # 1 with the wireless.
$140
Type 3 wound up being a last thought & is interesting because it's really easy to install & get going. It's a totally remote where you don't wire up either switch the remote is the only thing that opens it.
$100.00
Just added type four by request. this one will just have the controller & battery power wire only. It can be used with the exsitng wire in the harnesses for the OEM guy or the guy that knows his wiring is good. The power feed & the way to factory system operates is the problem this one enhances power & totally changes the way the switches operate off of a simple 3 wire system.
70.00


The design is modular & can be done in any combination if you didn't want the tail gate switch you can easily remove the wiring. The dash switch can be eliminated also. The remote can be done later.
The harness could be put in in one day if you stayed busy. It's like the headlight harness is built of quality products & is electrically protected & the control circuit is even fused to protect from mistakes installing the unit.
It also has the capability of utilizing the factory door safety switch on the tailgate. It is built to bypass the switch but has a circuit that can very simply be changed to operate the safety. You can also used replacement or the stock switches. They will used to operate relay instaed of the motors directly which is the original systems downfall.
GI John has the 2nd prototype & Could be contacted by PM if you wish to discuss one. He has had in operation for 11 months. John helped me through the development & install stages of the build/ design. He has the wired remote system Type #2. PM him with any questions you may have he's the only one besides me that has installed one.


Breaker circuit with auto reset instead of fuse. for main power.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 02-09-2017 at 01:00 PM.
  #2  
Old 02-09-2013, 06:44 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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LOL

For the guys that want the wiring diagram.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #3  
Old 02-10-2013, 10:16 AM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
feeler

I'm thinking of a type 4 system which would be nothing but the controller unit that you could use to utilize your factory wiring & either you provide the 12v run to the battery. The factory 12v wiring isn't good enough. If I offered this one you would still have to run the 12v to the battery. This system would be more ecomomical & could be utilized with the existing wiring. Not that I would recommend it. You could use the existing wiring if you 're confident enough to wire it & the wiring is good enough to use. Once again the motor wiring & ground would have to be fixed in this kit. It would take a little more knowlwedge to install but it would not be rocket science. with 12v feed $70.00
For the oem guys this might be an option.

BTW these are all shipped cost included just like with the headlight bypass.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 07-14-2013 at 08:44 AM.
  #4  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:52 AM
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mathman mathman is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Sep 12, 2007
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 785
I'm going to be needing one of these but haven't figured out which version to use, and haven't worked out some other issues yet. Probably be a month or two before I'll have some idea of where I want it to go.
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David
'78 J-10; '78 J-20 8400GVW
'79 Cherokee
'50 Willys (not Willy's) 4WD Pickup
  #5  
Old 02-10-2013, 11:56 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
Just call we can work in through I intend to builfd the a while.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mathman
I'm going to be needing one of these but haven't figured out which version to use, and haven't worked out some other issues yet. Probably be a month or two before I'll have some idea of where I want it to go.

__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #6  
Old 02-10-2013, 12:03 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
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Well here's the preliminary.

Below is the instructions on how to wire the hard wired worst case. The other 3 types are different 2 easier. One harder. The harder one would be where you just get a controller & use you own wiring. It's not that hard.

This will help you see the scope & scale.

PM Me with any question lets get on th ephone & work out details open t custom onstall just like with the lights.

The remote only includes the mounting of the controller & tailgate motor pieces the only other part to it is running the black red to the battery. No switcheds to connect. easy.

I'm also working out a deal to buy extra remotes. there are 2 types a key chain fob & a sunvisotr clip one both battery operated & will work with in 50 feet of vehicle.






Tailgate upgrade wiring solution:
Remove all wiring in the tailgate to existing motor & remove the tailgate switch. DO NOT REMOVE LIGHTING WIRES TO THE LICENSE PLATE LIGHT!! Install new switch in tailgate switch mechanism or rewire existing switch your choice. Mount tailgate relay system temporarily face up using the machine screws that holds the terminal strip. You should drill 2 holes in the lip of the tailgate in the bottom left corner of the opening. The plate should mount both ways. Face up until it is installed & tested. Then you will unbolt it & flip it over & bolt it back in the same holes. Then cut the bolts off to allow the inspection cover to be remounted on the tailgate when completed. In the temporary position don’t worry if it sticks out past the tailgate opening. After install is complete you will remove the board & flip it over for protection. It’s where you have the most space.
Make sure you have nylon wire (ZIP) ties to attatch the new harness to the old lighting harness as it runs parralell to the old harness.
Once you have mounted the controller it is time to start running wires. Enlarge the holes on both slightly to ensure the harness will passes freely through the tailgate & the tailgate jamb. Once the hole is enlarged remove the breaker mechanism & the switch from the long wiring harness & tape them up to protect them while running forward. Although I protected the circuit from damage I have built a pretty strong harmness. Be aware you still need to be careful as you run the wiring & ensure you do it patiently & Keep it out of harms way. Moving parts & hot parts have top be avoided.

DO NOT pull on wire connectors or ends they're on pretty good but not made to be pulled hard on. If you do have to pull on these pull on the connectors themselves NOT the wires. I special purchased a professional crimp tool to make these as best I could but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on them. Out of 132 headlight harnesses with over a thousand connections I have had 6 issues with crimps. most could have been avoided but stuff happens. I'll be glad to replace any you may have issues with for any reason.
Take the wiring harness & put it through the tailgate & tailgate jamb hole. Leave working slack in the tailgate. Carefully select your path & follow the electrical wiring for the tailights to the front with the long harness. The harness will run up & to the left side of the steering column where the three wire fork (Separation is) in the harness will go through the firewall & to the dash switch.
The other 2 wires ( Black & Red) will run up & follow the wiring across the firewall. It will follow the wiring harness going to starter solenoid. Locate the wire there & re attach the breaker you disconnected earlier. Do not connect the wire to the battery yet.
Now going back to the tailgate you will have to rewire the motor & the tailgate switches if you chose to use the tailgate switch. There are 3 identical wires in connection in color (either Red Orange White OR Red Orange Green) as the front switch that are about 32 inches long they go to the tailgate switch. Depending on which switch solution you use will determine connectioins. Instructions will be with harness for this.
Then connect the motor utilizing the terminals that have the blue wires comming from the relay. It's not really important but try to attach the light colored motor wire to the left relay & the dark motor wire to the right relay. If the switches operate backwards then swap these 2 connections. It will reverse the action.
Now notice on the terminal strip (of the controller) there is a red wire jumping from one terminal to another terminal. This is easily identified because it has 2 crimp connectors plugged into each other. This is the safety interlock. There were 2 crimp terminals attached to the harness in a plastic bag. Locate the safety on the left side of the tailgate switch & the wire going to the safety switch. Crimp the 2 connectors provided to those 2 wires. On the red jumper described earlier Unplug the 2 connectors & attach them to the wires you just crimped. Remember the system will not run without this switch being closed when you start testing. This is also the first place you start looking if it does not work. If it does not work disconnect the safety switch & plug the 2 reds back togehter. This will indicate a bad switch if it starts working or you have not taped it to the closed position for testing. You must tape it on the closed position when testing.
Now final process chosing your solution for the dash switch.
1. Replacing
2. Eliminating
3. Rewire existing
Once the desision is made completed you should have a complete install!!
Now go back through the entire system starting in the tailgate & make sure all wires are attached & in position to be able to let the window roll up & down without issues or interference.
for trouble shooting & future reference
Connect the harness using the tag or this connection chart.
Terminal Wire
#1 Small Yellow
#2 Small red
#3 Small white or green ome have white some have green.
#4 Large red
#5 Large black
#6 Red interlock loorp form fuse. interlock connect to # 2 opposite end.
Locate the two BLUE wires running off the relays. Connect them to motor temporarily. Once you determine operation you can crimp & tape permanently. You can test & reverse wires if it work backwards.
Now mount the circuit breaker & connect the red wire to the starter solenoid by battery. I would disconnect the battery for this procedure.
Re read & re-examine the entire job & ensure the motor wires are still temporarily in the butt splices. Then test.
After a complete inspection go to the battery & attach the breaker to the fenderwell. Attach the black wire ring to the solenoid mounting bolt or a great ground. Then attach the ring on the breaker to the battery side of the solenoid.
If everything is OK flip the relay board & replace the tailgate assembly.

Good luck

__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #7  
Old 09-05-2016, 09:26 AM
Alys4x4 Alys4x4 is offline
Noob!
 
Join Date: Oct 26, 2015
Location: Nampa, Idaho
Posts: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by serehill
I have completed 10 tailgate relay control systems & I'll be putting more information out on these over the next few days & populate it similar to the headlight harness with details.
Update 305 built & sold

I'll complete documentation & have it up tomorrow.

There will be 3 styles available starting out to see where the market goes. These are a complete rewire & a little harder than the headlight harness but well worth the effort. They have been in operation over the last 3 years so they are time tested. There is some info on these in the relayed headlight section.
Type #1 will be a totally hardwired version which will operate like stock switch on the dash & tailgate switch. you can used upgraded switches or your stock switches.
$100.00
Type 2 will be a totally hardwired with a wirless remote. It will have all the options of # 1 with the wireles.
$140
Type 3 wound up being a last thought & is interesting because it's really easy to install & get going. It's a totally remote where you don't wire up either switch the remote is the only thing that opens it.
$100.00
Just added type four by request. this one will just have the controller & battery power wire only. It can be used with the exsitng wire in the harnesses for the OEM guy or the guy that knows his wiring is good. The power feed & the way to factory system operates is the problem this one enhances power & totally changes the way the switches operate off of a simple 3 wire system.
70.00


The design is modular & can be done in any combination if you didn't want the tail gate switch you can easily remove the wiring. The dash switch can be eliminated also. The remote can be done later.
The harness could be put in in one day if you stayed busy. It's like the headlight harness is built of quality products & is electrically protected & the control circuit is even fused to protect from mistakes installing the unit.
It also has the capability of utilizing the factory door safety switch on the tailgate. It is built to bypass the switch but has a circuit that can very simply be changed to operate the safety. You can also used replacement or the stock switches. They will used to operate relay instaed of the motors directly which is the original systems downfall.
GI John has the 2nd prototype & Could be contacted by PM if you wish to discuss one. He has had in operation for 11 months. John helped me through the development & install stages of the build/ design. He has the wired remote system Type #2. PM him with any questions you may have he's the only one besides me that has installed one.


Breaker circuit with auto reset instead of fuse. for main power.
Type 2 still available?
Thanks!
  #8  
Old 09-05-2016, 12:23 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
Absoluteley

I'll PM you to get started.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #9  
Old 09-08-2016, 09:49 AM
8man's Avatar
8man 8man is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jan 04, 2011
Location: Bryan, Texas
Posts: 1,549
I got the Type 2 tailgate harness from Rick, and it was the 1st electrical option I ever tried to install. It was seriously easy! I wanted the remote open/close, and I had the window working in a couple of hours.

However, since I had a NOS dash switch,

I also wanted to use the stock dash switch. So when I got the new Painless harness wired in, I had power and a ground to the NOS switch, but when I powered up the system I had power to the NOS switch, the dash switch worked, but the remotes didn't work. What had I done wrong?

I called Rick and he was most kind and willing to help. We discussed the problem I was having and the first thing he said was "it's grounding out."

I had used the ground on the dash switch, so I cut the ground wire off the back of the switch. Still had the problem. So I started thinking about the door switches Rick helped me "rebuild" and thought about the ground inside the switch that had to be removed. That was my "AHA" moment.

So I grabbed a NOS dash switch, a drill and a small drill bit. I drilled heads off the two brads that held the switch to the metal housing. Holding the switch with the toggle up, I gently pulled the switch apart, because there is a small spring and a brass plate in there you don't want to fall out, and sure enough, I could see the ground plate.

With the toggle sitting on the bench, I took the back of the switch with the plugs on it, and drilled from the inside. I drilled the head off the brad holding the brass plate inside the switch. The brass plate just came right off and the ground pin pulled out from the back side. This left only the power in pin and the up and down pins on the back.

You can see the brass plate bottom left, the brad (with the head drilled off) and the plug pin bottom right, and the open switch (how it should look to function correctly) on top in the picture above.
I used 2 - 5.5 mm machine screws, with washer, lock washer and nut to put the switch back together and secure it to the bracket. Plugged it in, and I now have a dash switch and remote controlled rear window.

You can see the machine screw holding the switch and the bracket with the plug put back on it. It works well.

I now have a dash switch and remotes that work. If anyone wants this option, I strongly recommend doing it. If you have questions with Rick's harness he'll help, and since he helped me, if you need help with the switch, I'll help you with that.
__________________
79 Cherokee S (current project)
82 Cherokee (parts for the 79)

Member FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
  #10  
Old 09-08-2016, 10:53 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
Kewel

Great write up Robert & I appreciate it. I have been getting request but have not articulated the instructions & couldn't have as well as you.

Thank you
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #11  
Old 09-04-2017, 11:58 AM
earlb74's Avatar
earlb74 earlb74 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 17, 2014
Location: Saraland AL
Posts: 56
86 switch

Hey, I have an 86 and my switch is different, do you know how to make this work with my switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by 8man
I got the Type 2 tailgate harness from Rick, and it was the 1st electrical option I ever tried to install. It was seriously easy! I wanted the remote open/close, and I had the window working in a couple of hours.

However, since I had a NOS dash switch,

I also wanted to use the stock dash switch. So when I got the new Painless harness wired in, I had power and a ground to the NOS switch, but when I powered up the system I had power to the NOS switch, the dash switch worked, but the remotes didn't work. What had I done wrong?

I called Rick and he was most kind and willing to help. We discussed the problem I was having and the first thing he said was "it's grounding out."

I had used the ground on the dash switch, so I cut the ground wire off the back of the switch. Still had the problem. So I started thinking about the door switches Rick helped me "rebuild" and thought about the ground inside the switch that had to be removed. That was my "AHA" moment.

So I grabbed a NOS dash switch, a drill and a small drill bit. I drilled heads off the two brads that held the switch to the metal housing. Holding the switch with the toggle up, I gently pulled the switch apart, because there is a small spring and a brass plate in there you don't want to fall out, and sure enough, I could see the ground plate.

With the toggle sitting on the bench, I took the back of the switch with the plugs on it, and drilled from the inside. I drilled the head off the brad holding the brass plate inside the switch. The brass plate just came right off and the ground pin pulled out from the back side. This left only the power in pin and the up and down pins on the back.

You can see the brass plate bottom left, the brad (with the head drilled off) and the plug pin bottom right, and the open switch (how it should look to function correctly) on top in the picture above.
I used 2 - 5.5 mm machine screws, with washer, lock washer and nut to put the switch back together and secure it to the bracket. Plugged it in, and I now have a dash switch and remote controlled rear window.

You can see the machine screw holding the switch and the bracket with the plug put back on it. It works well.

I now have a dash switch and remotes that work. If anyone wants this option, I strongly recommend doing it. If you have questions with Rick's harness he'll help, and since he helped me, if you need help with the switch, I'll help you with that.
  #12  
Old 09-08-2016, 10:54 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
Still kickin.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alys4x4
Type 2 still available?
Thanks!


Yes sir
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 09-08-2016 at 12:56 PM.
  #13  
Old 10-27-2016, 08:21 PM
Elvis1tcb Elvis1tcb is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 30, 2015
Location: Memphis tn
Posts: 35
Having some tailgate troubles with my 79 chief. Figure is time for an upgrade if type 2 is available
Thanks ,
Jason
  #14  
Old 02-06-2017, 05:24 PM
hangemhigh hangemhigh is offline
Noob!
 
Join Date: Aug 25, 2016
Location: Florida
Posts: 2
Thanks

I have an 91 GW that the tailgate harness not so good,some people recommended you , thanks cant figure out how to post a pic , need new tailgate harness
  #15  
Old 02-08-2017, 12:42 PM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
Hello

Quote:
Originally Posted by hangemhigh
I have an 91 GW that the tailgate harness not so good,some people recommended you , thanks cant figure out how to post a pic , need new tailgate harness


PM Sent
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
  #16  
Old 02-08-2017, 09:36 PM
jeepgirl's Avatar
jeepgirl jeepgirl is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 30, 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 90
Rick is a FREAKING GENIUS!!! Just installed the complete tailgate harness with front and rear switches. I also opted for the remotes which I'm so happy I did! There is a certain cool factor being able to put the window up and down by remote on a 39 year old vehicle.

The install took me a little over 6 hours from start to finish. Barely even needed the install instructions I printed out. I had to add some wire lengths to my motor wires cause they were too short to reach the relay block. I still have to put the access cover back on, mount my inside switch, and I will need to cut back the feed wires to the battery cause they are about 6 feet too long but no biggie. Those will be done tomorrow cause I was tired and my back was killing me!

A bunch of time was spent simply getting my old wires out of the way and through the tailgate holes... there were all stuck together in some form fitting plastic thing...what a PITA!!!

Should have done the upgrade years ago... I can't wait to get the headlight harness upgrade...

I'M SO FREAKING HAPPY!!!

Thank you Rick!!!! FREAKING GENIUS!!!!
__________________
"Silly boys.. Jeeps are for girls!"

1978 Cherokee Chief "Ivy"
  #17  
Old 02-10-2017, 11:37 AM
jeepgirl's Avatar
jeepgirl jeepgirl is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 30, 2003
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 90
Pics of my install...

Figured I would show some pics of my install.. took about 6 hours. while buttoning everything up yesterday I had a mild freak out when the window stopped working... called Rick and he got me through it (motor wire had come loose from board).. so.. install pics...

Everything pulled out for access


Mounting the board during testing... there is not a lot of room once board is mounted in the final location..


once i got all the old wires out of way there was plenty of space for the new wires. you can see the tag light wires remain.


mounting location of the breaker.. i had to cut back the additional length of wire but no biggie.. looks good right!!! .. better to be too long than coming up short (insert your own dirty comments).


I chose to try and make things look factory since i still had my old switch mount and face plate. New switch mounted but new mount holes were required in the dash since new switch sits almost flush...


I had to enlarge the opening a little with my dremel and I used some mounting tape to hold the faceplate. Looking great!!


Just a little video I did to show the remote in action... I'm so happy I reconsidered getting the remote.. COOL FACTOR!!!


oh.. and did I say he is a FREAKING GENIUS!!!
__________________
"Silly boys.. Jeeps are for girls!"

1978 Cherokee Chief "Ivy"

Last edited by jeepgirl : 02-10-2017 at 11:43 AM.
  #18  
Old 02-12-2017, 09:28 AM
serehill's Avatar
serehill serehill is offline
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Join Date: Nov 22, 2009
Location: Mesquite Texas
Posts: 8,622
great Info

Thank Brianne,
The front switch conversion looks great.



The Video is a great idea.
__________________

80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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