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Tech: Upgrade your keyless entry using factory parts
I'm trying to find the factory relays that control the power locks. I have read that they are behind the dash, but can't find any reference beyond that. I have the Factory Manual and the section on Power Locks doesn't even mention them. Can anyone give me an idea as to what I am looking for?
I've got power at the switch, but am not hearing the relays clicking when I move the switch.
IIRC, the relays behind the dashboard only operate when using the original infrared (IR) keyless entry system. The door switches are wired directly to the lock actuators and bypass the relays (they also carry the full electrical current).
I think I remember the IR relays being near the middle of the dash, maybe behind the radio area. You'll probably have to drop the A/C unit to see them.
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with the (+) trigger coming from one of the trunk output on the RKE module. Have the load (L) on the timer relay feed a heavy-duty automotive relay that provides (+)12V to the leg of your motor that lowers the window. Then set the timer relay for a 4-5 second turn-off.
When you activate the RKE button, it will trip the timer relay, which will provide power to the automotive relay for that set amount of time. While the timer relay is energized the automotive relay will provide (+)12V to the window motor long enough for it to roll down.
Also wanted to add that I used the later Chrysler RF module 'trunk opener' to wind down my tailgate window. I figured since the button was there...
Nice job! I'm glad to see someone else using the RKE trunk output to operate the tailgate window. I did something similar with "auto-down" modules from mid-'90s Ford cars. It automatically shuts off when it detects a stalled window motor (high current draw). You can also wire the RKE lock output to roll the window up, controlling both directions with the fob.
EDIT: If anyone tries this, I think you'll need to use a 555 timer circuit to pulse the auto-down modules. It's been a few years since I did it, but I seem to remember the trunk output holding the line hot for too long, causing the auto-down module to revert to manual mode.
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