CS-144 Alternator Installed!

[Jeepeta]

Originally posted by Spectre:
With the 9 o clock position, you end up scorching the adapter harness. The 2 o clock is preferred.

I wasn't aware that *anyone* had gotten the Deville Concours in the 4.6L, much less that it had been offered in the US. Most books and parts stores assume that it's the 4.9.

I just got back from AZ, and switched them out. I got the 4.9L one, clocked @ 2, and inspection of the back matches what you have posted in your pictures.

Thanks for clearing this up.

[Jeepeta]

Originally posted by robwz:
Can the cs144 be reclocked like the cs130?

Good question. How can you tell. You loosen the rear cap and twist? Not sure I want to be the beta tester on this idea. If it ain't broken I don't like to fix it.

[Rob z]

On a 130, you remove the 3 screws holding the front of the case to the back, pull the front about halfway off, turn the front part of the case, and put the screws back. Its very easy.

[The Anti-Chrysler]

The CS144 is the same. Clocking is a piece of cake once the pulley is removed (which you have to anyway). It therefore doesn't really matter what CS144 you get as long as the front case has the 180 degree bolt pattern, with the exception apparently the Caddy alt with the extra lug for the heated windshield.

[Walt]

The clocking shown in Spectre's pictures is the clocking you need. If you try to put the plug at 9:00 you won't get the alt in because the notch where the plug goes is necessary to clear the filer. I plugged mine in after putting the alt in place and it was hard to get it in, but if you have the adapter pigtail you can plug this into the alt first and then mount the alt and then plug the pigtail into the harness.
As Spectre said, the alt is mounted "upside down" in the caddy, so don't pay attention to what they say in the parts store. Just get the one for the 4.9 w/o heated winshield and you'll be OK.

[Walt]

Oh, and yes like Anti-Chrysler said it DOES matter which sc144 you get, because not all of them have the pivot bolt and lower mount separated by 180 deg!
As long as the mounts are at 12:00 and 6:00 you can re-clock it if necessary. Specify 95 deville w/ 4.9 and it will be clocked right to begin with.

[ January 26, 2006, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Walt ]

[chr1s]

what is this cs-144 alternator everybody is talking about?? [img]tongue.gif[/img]

[Walt]

Hey Guys,
Tonight I got a wild hair and decided to check the alignment of the alt w/ respect to the crank pully.
When I put the alt on I put 2 washers behind the spacer sleeve on the pivot bolt to replace the bracket that does not fit the new alt... the one that goes from the pivot bolt, up against the head, to the back of the alt.
Well, I laid a long extension up against the crank pully to see how it would line up w/ the new alt and I found it was too far forward!
With my washers removed it was still a tiny bit forward of ideal, like ~.030, but close to ideal. So, if you have a shim behind your spacer, you might want to look at the pully allighnment!
Walt

[ March 17, 2006, 09:38 PM: Message edited by: Walt ]

[rmorit01]

Originally posted by Walt:
I'm planning to make a new rear support, but I'm not in a big hurry. There is a bolt hole on the back of the alt nearest the pivot bolt that I think will work well for this. I'll post some pictures when I come up with a solution.
Walt

Walt -- Did you work this out yet for a rear support?

Curious -- Bob

[will e]

i put mine in without the rear bolt support. It seems to be working fine although I do plan on 'fixing' this.

I did run into a 'problem' though. It has to do with my rig having a 2 groove crank pulley and A/C. Since I only have 2 grooves in the crank pulley I can only run 1 belt around the WP-A/C-Alt setup. This caused a problem because there doesn't seem to be enough surface area on the alternator pulley to turn the CS144. If I use a smaller belt and don't hook up the A/C then it is fine. And I am not just talking about a lot of sqeeling belt noise either. THe CS144 would NOT charge with the larger belt. The pulley got to over 200+ degree's in a matter of about 1 minute due to the friction.

Now, most people don't have this problem because they have a 3 groove crank pulley. But what you want to be cautious of is if you plan on going with 2 A/C compressors, one for OBA. To do this you typically run just one belt for the WP-A/C-ALT and then use the second A/C pulley to drive the OBA. I don't think this will work if you upgrade your alternator.

[IslanderOffRoad]

Seems like everyone is doing this swap right now. I bought the parts, but the idiots at Autozone sold me the wrong CS130, so I haven't had time to work it all out yet.

My stock Alternator is alot bigger than the CS130, I think it's an SI12, it looks like the pics posted, but I was under the impression that those were still similar sized. Do I have an SI15?

Reading the problems with the exhaust manifold again makes me really glad that I have a 258, nothing hot on the alt's side of the engine.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.

[Walt]

Originally posted by rmorit01:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Walt:
I'm planning to make a new rear support, but I'm not in a big hurry. There is a bolt hole on the back of the alt nearest the pivot bolt that I think will work well for this. I'll post some pictures when I come up with a solution.
Walt

Walt -- Did you work this out yet for a rear support?

Curious -- Bob</font>[/QUOTE]No, not yet, I was doing this fitting in preparation for it.
It does seem to work fine without it, so I haven't been in a big hurry.
I was trying to decide between a shim welded to the end of the spacer with a tab welded to the spacer, or some kind of diagonal brace to accomplish both; but I have decided that since no shim is required that I'll just weld a tab to the side of the spacer to pick up on the bolt hole on the back of the alt and call it a day.
It seems to do just fine without the 3rd brace, but the jeep engineers felt the need to install one on a smaller, lighter alt, so I figure I'll try to duplicate its functionality.
I've got the motor apart again, so I have time to mess with it ...

[will e]

Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.

No it is not a one wire hook up. But you get an adapter cable from NAPA (EC82) for the two wire plug. The adapter converts the connector type. The two none batt wires going to the alternator are used for 1: To let the alternator know the ignition is on and 2: to sense volatage for the voltage regulator.

Depending on the year FSJ you have what you have to do with the BATT terminal wire varies. My 81 has the factory amp guage which would BURN UP if I tried to use a 140 amp alternator with it. What I did was just connect an additional wire from the batt terminal to the solinod. I left the original wire in place. My amp meter no longer registers a charge or discharge. I will have to replace it with a volt meter.

Good upgrade. Especially for those of use running 2 electric fuel pumps, stereos, hella lights, EFI and other accessories.

[rmorit01]

Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.

Crazy:

This link provides one of the more complete explanation and is what I used for my install. I also emailed Walt with some questions on the details of his install.

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=034509#000024

You don't use 1-wire you use the following part number -- From Spectre's orginal post:

It was the Delco 8078, essentially. I just called NAPA and had them cross reference it to an Echlin number, which I don't have on hand and will get for you later. The 8078 is getting hard to find. Here's some of the numbers for the same thing: Delco 8078, General Motors 12102921, Pico 5331.

Joe G. Alternator Theory Pages shows a picture for this and detailed explanation of the CS144.

Here is the picture of the part --


Note, that the local advance auto had the part available without problems.

Here is the link to the alternator theory pages -- what a great reference --

http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Alternator_Theory.html#Section_3