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Old 10-06-2011, 03:24 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
1983 Wagoneer Build

For starters, I'm Nick, I'm 17 years young and recently purchased a 1983 Wagoneer. However this is not my first car, I bought a nova at age 15 and the old 350 started knocking so i figured it was time for an LS-swap. I swapped a 2004 LQ4 6.0 into the nova backed by the muncie tranny. I did all the work alone in our two car garage. It was a great learning experience and a good problem solving lesson. Here is the build ,ttp://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1243718-lq4-into-1972-nova-build-10.html, for anybody interested. And if you have any questions about an LS swap in your FSJ I might be able to help out a bit.

Onto the main reason I'm here. I picked up the wagoneer from a guy of craigslist for $1800. It was in grandma's car from 1985-1992, when the lady passed away it sat in a barn from 1992-2007 with 59,000 miles on it. The man I bought it from bought the Jeep in 2007 at an auction, and when i bought it from him it only had 83,000 miles.

It has very little rust, only a spot the size of a quarter behind the passenger side rear wheel, and a small dent on the opposite side. Paint is decent (besides the part where somebody decided it was a good idea to tear off the wood paneling) Runs and drives very nice, typical drive train, AMC 360, 727, NP-229, Dana 44 front, AMC-20 rear.
Interior needs alot of work, I will explain more about that in a little.
Enough of the talk, here are the pictures when I brought it home.


I don't know what somebody was thinking when they tried to "paint" over the wood paneling the peeled off with a brush.



^only spot of rust




Motor needs a good deep cleaning.

nice clean,cancer free floor pans in the cargo area after I ripped out the old carpeting.

Like I said before, The nova is my nice weather, summer car. This is my winter, rainy,snowy, long trip car, I will be driving the wagoneer 80% of the time. Plans for Wagoneer are as follows.

Four inch all spring lift.
33's
Paint (repainted same coppper metallic color)
Bumpers that i will fab in my Metal fabrication class.
Carpeting
Nice seats, or seat covers.
Rhino Grill.
Rear tire carrier on bumper,
Stereo with all new speakers,
Valve covers, Oil pan, headers and full exhaust going into a single magnaflow.
Roof rack
All the windows work except the driver window (needs new flex rack)
Thats about it for now except for a bunch of little odds and ends.

Here is a picture of my brothers 98 TJ that he gave to me when he went into the Army (which I am selling to get funds for the Waggy), Then my Nova i swapped an LS into, and then my twin brothers 2000 Silverado.
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  #2  
Old 10-06-2011, 04:10 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
Here is a Gladiator (Rhino) Grille I bought off of ebay, it came with the grill, headlights with bezels, pie pans, turn signal lenses both clear and amber, J-200 badges (which I don't need, make offer if you are wanting them) 4 Wheel Drive badges, J-200 ashtray. I picked the whole thing up for $340 including shipping which i think is a pretty good deal.
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  #3  
Old 10-06-2011, 05:25 PM
thatguy
 
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Nice! Welcome!!!
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  #4  
Old 10-06-2011, 05:43 PM
nclugnut nclugnut is offline
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Join Date: Oct 23, 2006
Location: NC
Posts: 252
looks like a wagoneer worth saving. I look forward to seeing it progress
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  #5  
Old 10-06-2011, 07:45 PM
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Wagn Man Wagn Man is offline
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Join Date: Jun 23, 2009
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 434
Good looking rig, should be quite good project
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2011, 05:14 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
Ive read countless threads, Ive read the instruction information on bjs site, and I cant for the life of me cant put a Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley flex rack on with out it breaking sometime throughout the process.
I thought for sure i had it on right this last time the window was going down smoothly and then when i was attempting to put it back up the flex rack came off of the top seperate piece of track. I have no idea on earth how it happened, my guess is that it came off the track when it was going down? there is a small gap in between the two tracks, is this what is causing all my frustration, I dont know what else to do, and Ive gone through $60 worth of flex tracks and im tired of it.
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2011, 08:15 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
I removed all the wood paneling today, minus some of the black adhesive where the trim was. It took me 4 hours to get it all done, and 3 Rubber eraser wheels from 3M (also referred to as "stripe off" wheels) they are expensive, and if I took my time i probably would have only gone through 2. They run about $30 a piece. anyways, I cleaned up the rest of the adhesive with some Goo-gone and I will finish up the black stuff with a razor blade.

before


after (still needs a little more clean up)
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  #8  
Old 10-28-2011, 07:20 AM
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mt pokitz mt pokitz is offline
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Join Date: Apr 02, 2008
Location: LaSalle, Il
Posts: 109
looks good with the woodgrain peeled off, paint looks nice, a little buff & wax it will look real nice
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  #9  
Old 11-03-2011, 11:16 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
UPS delivered a lot of parts over the week, This weekend i will be replaceing the oil pan gasket, (i also got that beefy oil pan with the 3/16 steel skid plate) rear main seal, valve cover and valve cover gasket, oil pump rebuild, ditch alot of the vacuum lines and emissions crap, replace oil pressure sender, temp sender, as well as the plugs and general cleaning/painting. It looks like i have my work cut out for me this weekend! after that i will be working on interior, plans are as follows, insulation, carpet, stereo install, seat covers and weather stripping. Pics to come!

Nick
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:42 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
I installed the new flex rack, and i ended up using one of those plastic inserts i found in the "license plate fasteners" bin at the local Ace. the track itself was bent so on my workbench I straightened it out and now the window goes up and down properly!

next up...

fuel level sender,
cargo panels,
carpet,
valve covers and vacuum lines


Thanks!
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  #11  
Old 11-15-2011, 12:54 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
Well, the window worked for a day....then the flex track broke again. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong when im installing it. I think the problem lies where the upper track is connected to the lower track assembly, any suggestions? I'm debating whether or not to convert my driver side window to a manual set-up.

On a brighter note, I installed my Rhino Grill. I have yet to install the headlights and Im still trying to find a set of lights to fit into the smaller openings to replace the pie pans.

I am just mocking things up for now as the waggy is getting bodywork and paint sometime this week or next.

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  #12  
Old 11-20-2011, 07:08 AM
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Pman Pman is offline
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Join Date: Apr 24, 2004
Location: Mount Pleasant, SC
Posts: 1,055
Nice work so far, Nick; looking forward to seeing your progress on the rig. Wish I could offer you some solid advice on the flex-track debacle. Sounded like you had it licked.
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82 Wagoneer Limited (Cracker)-360 c.i.d.,Rusty's 4" Lift, Rancho RS9000x Shocks, TFI Upgrade, BFG 31" All Terrains
88 Wrangler Laredo (Tubbles)-258 c.i.d.,33" BF Goodrich Mud Terrains,3.5" lift, 8000lb. Warn Winch, Aussie Locker (Front)
81 CJ 5 (Lulu)-304-T150-D20
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2011, 10:27 AM
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jaber jaber is offline
Dragin Az
 
Join Date: Oct 17, 2003
Location: Chino Valley, Arizona
Posts: 8,071
Welcome to the land of empty pockets and unfinished projects...

Looks like you are making good progress.
Where are you getting your flex's from? Can you loosen one track and close the gap?
The last 2 years they used a cable system that swaps right in. Check the sale section here for parts.
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Old 12-11-2011, 05:13 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
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I ended up welding the track together, It was too much of a pain to try and close the gap, it would always re-open the gap when the motor torqued up and moved the track.

I installed the carpet in the cargo area as well as cargo boards. I also installed a Kenwood headunit and Polk 5.25 marine speakers in the rear, and waiting to get some more money to put Polk 6x9's up front.

I plan on pulling the motor out within the next couple weeks for oil pan gasket, oil pump rebuild, all new vacuum lines, valve stem seals, valve cover gasket, along with other odds and ends. I do realize I could accomplish all the stuff previously listed witht he motor in the car but I will have plenty of time over winter break, plus the motor and engine bay need a good deep cleaning and a few cans of paint.

Within a few weeks hopefully I will have all the carpet installed, which brings me to the next few questions about the interior, Ive been looking for center consoles from different catalogs to replace the armrest/tiny middle seat. It would cost $1000+ to re-upholster the front two buckets so I am looking for new seats up front. I understand that Dodge Durango buckets fit the Wagoneer seat tracks? Any idea of what year Durango to look for? I dont mind doing a little cutting, bending, or drilling to install the new seats, but I do not have a welder so I cant just make new seat frames. Any other options for seats would be great.

Also...dumb question, but how do you remove the stock gauge cluster? do you have to drop the steering column?
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Old 01-02-2012, 01:25 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
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Pulled the motor out just the other day for cleaning, paint, all new gaskets and emission delete.
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  #16  
Old 01-02-2012, 01:54 PM
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Strode Strode is offline
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Join Date: Nov 08, 2011
Location: Littleton, Co
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Looks good, thanks for posting a thread.

I got my instrument cluster out without dropping the steering column, but it was really hard. I'm going to detail mine, and when it goes back in, I WILL drop the steering column.

How much do you want for your old pignose grille? If it's in really nice shape, I might be interested....
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2012, 01:51 PM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
Pignose is not in too good of condition, the chrome is peeling off of the top bar in the middle. I would sell it for cheap if youre still wanting it though.
I have no idea how you got your cluster out without dropping the column.

I have the motor out and on a stand and cleaned and prepped block for paint, took off all accesories. I pulled off the intake and the valley cover/intake gasket and there was so much black carbon like build up it was ridiculous, it was completely surrounding one of the pushrods. Ill post more pictures later tonight.
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Old 01-13-2012, 07:27 AM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
For some reason im having a hard time removing the gears from the housing for the oil pump. I got the gear out that doesnt have a shaft connected to it, but the one WITH the shaft on the gear does not want to come out, it will spin freely and will come out about a quarter inch and then not want to move. Next things are removing and capping most of the vacuum ports for the emissions delete and cleaning and painting all accessories. I have a new water pump i will install after i paint the timing cover. enough of me talking. here are some pictures.

Here is the engine right after I pulled it at about 10 P.M. on New Year's Eve.


After powerwashing and some elbow grease.






since I couldn't find any copper engine enamel, I used 3 coats of the rustoleum "hammered" copper metalic paint with a coat of clear duplicolor engine enamel after each coat.
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  #19  
Old 01-13-2012, 07:51 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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Location: Normal, Oklahoma
Posts: 8,684
I'm liking what I'm seeing. Planning to pull my motor for some similar work soon. I did an oil pan gasket last winter and I don't want to do all that work under there again. I'd rather yank the bolts and plop it on the stand.
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Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


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  #20  
Old 01-13-2012, 09:18 AM
Kansas_Nova Kansas_Nova is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2011
Location: Shawnee, Kansas
Posts: 58
Yeah that is pretty much what made me pull the motor, I previously replaced the oil pan gasket but it still was leaking due to lack of patience and not a lot of room to work. Plus it gave me a reason to spend some more money to make everything look nice
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