Best way to determine if oil pump is working?

[MountainBoy]

When I purchased my jeep 5 months ago I got it running and took it for a test drive. I "think" the oil pressure guage was working. After working on the truck daily for the past 4 months, I took it for a test drive yesterday. The oil pressure guage did not register a reading, darn!

Question is, what's the best way with check it? I'm thinking about removing one of the valve covers and just see if the oil comes up. I am sure the pump did work in the past because when it ran, half the oil poured out the left value cover and down the block.

It is a 1978 J10 with a 360 2b

[Curly5759]

I'd take out the oil sender, install a mechanical gauge and run the engine. I believe you can borrow a mechanical gauge from Auto zone.

[MountainBoy]

I like that, did not know you could borrow such an item. Will pull mine, once I read the book and find it, and take it to Auto Zone to make sure a loaner is the same size. Thank you

P.S. Am planning to get the entire guage set and mount under the dash and bypass all the original guages. Like those BIG readable guages

[MountainBoy]

Just removed the oil pressure sending unit from the engine block. On my 360 is was located just above the oil filter.

Anyway, my question is, there are two large metal blocks coming off the engine. One is about 1" square directly off the engine and a 3/4" square block off that one that the sending unit threaded into. Because there was some really nasty stuff pouring out of the sending unit, should I remove each of those blocks and clean them, or are they items best left alone? Also, do I need to teflon tape the threads if I remove them before I re-install?

[Curly5759]

The tape can act as an insulator to the senders threads. Teflon paste is better, can get it in tubes at AZ or Napa. I can't picture the large block you mention but I'd leave it alone.

If/when you install a 2nd set of gauges, you can install a brass T into the sending unit and run both factory and aftermarket gauges. No need to, I just don't like having the factory gauge sitting there dead.
You can't run a T for the coolant sensor, it won't read correctly. I found a 2nd hole in the intake and ran the 2nd sensor from there.

[MountainBoy]

Thanks Curly for the good idea. I took it one step further and purchased an Oil Pressure Test Kit. It looks really cool.

I am running a little pessimistic though. I had to remove the oil filter to access the oil pressure sending unit (OPSU). When I did only a minimal amount of oil came out of it ....... not looking good.

Because the oil in the OPSU looked so nasty I want to clean the cavity and line coming out of the engine block. As much as I would just like to hit it with and air pressure hose, I'm not sure where the line leads and don't want to take any chances.

I will instead disconnect the dist wire and crank the engine over and hope some oil shoots out of the line and cleans itself out. Afterwards I will hook up the test guage and pray for the best.

Wish me luck becuase if the readingis bad, I really hate to see a grown man like myself cry.

[letank]

Just removed the oil pressure sending unit from the engine block. On my 360 is was located just above the oil filter.

Anyway, my question is, there are two large metal blocks coming off the engine. One is about 1" square directly off the engine and a 3/4" square block off that one that the sending unit threaded into. Because there was some really nasty stuff pouring out of the sending unit, should I remove each of those blocks and clean them, or are they items best left alone? Also, do I need to teflon tape the threads if I remove them before I re-install?

don't remove any of these blocks and try without teflon tape, it is a special thread that seals as you torque it tight, it is called NPT : the taper on NPT threads allows them to form a seal when torqued as the flanks of the threads compress against each other


if the valve train is really noisy, you know that the oil pressure is not up to the task of oiling the valve train

[MountainBoy]

UPDATE! Threaded a piece of pipe in the engine block where the oil pressure sending unit was located and slipped a piece of hose over it. Ran the hose into a clean 5 gallon bucket. Cranked the engine for quite awhile and nothing out of the hose. Decided that cranking the engine may not be adequate to get oil pressure at the sending unit. Decided to fire the engine up for just about 5-7 seconds at fast idle. Checked the bucket and it had about a quarter of a quart of oil in it ............ ya.................

Hooked up my nice new clean and shinny oil pressure test guage and cranked the engine to fast idle. Got a reading of 60 p.s.i., ya..................

Clogged up line, maybe, bad original equipment guage, maybe.

Will purchase a new set of guages and install under the dash.

Still a little concerned by what I believe is a little upper engine noise. There is a pinging, but might be an exhaust leak. After I install the new guages, will persue that issue and maybe pull a valve cover and check rockers for oil.

All said, I'm happy the oil pump is operational. Thanks for directing me to do the oil pressure test and get right to the issue. Thanks for all you guys help

[babywag]

cold oil pressure doesn't mean a lot, let alone @ high idle as well.
warm idle oil pressure reading will give better info. on engine health.

[MountainBoy]

Another Update; Finally purchased a new under-dash oil pressure gauge. When starting the engine at fast idle and cold oil I get a reading of 60 psi. I do appriciate the aforemention post that I may likely be getting a false reading, (sorry no RPM gauge available). Once engine warms and at standard idle, reaching here when I say about 850 rpm, thats what it was set at by buddy at few months ago, the oil pressure is at about 10-12 psi. Book states that it should be at 13 psi at idle.

What to believe I'm OK here BUT I now have a pretty aggressive ticking at the right side of the engine. Removed the valve cover on that side and watched the oil freely pump into the rockers and of course, over the exhaust manifold.

Having considerable difficulty determining where the ticking noise is coming from as it sounds like multiple sources. This noise was not there a couple months ago when the engine ran last.

Need some ideas here, my friends.

[babywag]

10-12 is ok for hot idle a tiny bit low but should not be a cause for ticking/engine noise.

Check for exhaust leaks(common), could also be sticky lifters if it has not been run for a long time.
A quart of ATF added to oil will sometimes free/clean them up.
Just be sure to change the oil after a bit of running/driving.

[rusty crusty]

I would get an auto mechanic s stethoscope (looks like a Dr's but with a metal tube on end) and listen at various places in engine. IIRC the heat riser? Will flatter like a litter w/I oil. Good luck.

[Kaiserjeeps]

Marvel mystery oil is really good stuff for quieting down and cleaning deposits in a noisy valve train. It has been around for a long time and is made for it.

[MountainBoy]

Looks like I really messed up here guys. I thought I'd start my exploration today and try to find the excessive ticking noise based on some of your recommendations.

After starting the engine I ran my finger along the exhaust manifold in an attempt to feel some air blowing by. It took about 10 seconds when I felt a real blow-by on my finger. I was at the center top of the manifold. I took a good look at the area and had no choice but to start slapping myself in the head with my free hand.

You might already have figured it out. There are two factory holes there for what I believe are for a metal line. Boy, what a rookie mistake. I covered the holes with a rag and the noise was gone. Looks like a job for JB Weld.

Thanks for all your help .... engine sounds seet.

[nograin]

Maybe I missed it. Might just need a new sending unit.
Does yours also have a pressure switch on it? Some years do.

As far as exhaust manifold, there were some changes through the years. But don't feel to bad about the time it took diagnose. I had my car getting a system put on at an exhaust shop - and they pointed out there was exhaust coming out of holes under the exhaust manifold. Didn't see it 'em. Earlier manifolds didn't cover the later EGR holes on the later heads (Chrysler product).

Anyway. If they are holes, its probably missing AIR injection tubes and banjo bolts. Do a search here and I'm sure you'll find some pictures and the thread size need to plug 'em. Didn't realize '78s them.