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Old 04-24-2008, 02:11 PM
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temps425 temps425 is offline
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Battery: Not just dead...DESTROYED!

I have searched the forums, but has anyone posted regarding a Jeep (GW 88) that not only drains the battery, but actually takes out multiple cells??

I have gone through 2 batteries. The first one died, took a charge (but I think a cell or 2 was bad), then I left it for about 36hrs, came back, and it would not take a charge, and of course, it tested bad. So I thought it was the battery that was crappy, so i put in another yellow top from autozone which was about 6mo old. Same thing...ruined the battery. NOW, when I put the battery in my radio goes crazy constantly trying to eject the CD player. I want to remove the radio fuse and see if thats the problem, but I doubt it, and I dont wanna ruin another battery!

Any ideas? Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 04-24-2008, 02:25 PM
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azwagoneer80 azwagoneer80 is offline
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Is the Alt overcharging? That will cook a battery in a hurry. I don't see the CD player killing the cells in the battery, although an overcharging alternator can kill a CD player.
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Old 04-24-2008, 02:50 PM
Dr Teeth Dr Teeth is offline
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As said above, an overactive alt. could kill one, but that should show up on your voltmeter, so keep an eye on it.

One thing to consider, I had a battery go bad a number of years ago in a little hotrod I had. I didn't use it often, so I just went to napa and said, "This one's bad, give me a cheap replacement". They did, went home installed and the problems came back a week later. Tested the battery and it was bad. Took it back to Napa, found out from the old guy there that many of the cheap batteries sold are used ones cleaned up and quickly bench tested. If they bench test OK they sell them again. Problem is bats that are right on the verge of going bad can sometimes still test OK even though they are bad. Spent a little more $ and next bat was fine.

Moral of the story, is don't rule out the fact that a battery straight from the store couldn't be bad even though you just installed it.

Todd
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:02 PM
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Lindel Lindel is offline
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Check your grounds too. A bad ground can cause some really strange stuff. Make sure there's no corrosion on your connections. And make absolutely sure there's a connection from the neg post of the battery to the fender of the car, that's critical.

You need ground connections from the fender to the battery, battery to the engine, engine to frame and one from the engine to the fender wouldn't hurt.
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:11 PM
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I've had the tailgate switch flatten batteries numerous times. Killed an Optima and has been beating up on the 2nd one for years. Rather than hassling with taking apart the tailgate to change out the switch, I put a lighted switch inline to disable the tailgate. If the tailgate switch sticks when disabled it lights the 2nd switch. Since I never plan to sell the jeep I can never be called a DSPO. Just a DS.

Michael
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:32 PM
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temps425 temps425 is offline
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How do I test for an overactive alternator? Funny thing is I just put in a new one. Had it modified for the dual pulley system. Had a guy put it in. Is it possible it was hooked up backward causing it to function incorrectly?
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Old 04-24-2008, 03:43 PM
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temps425 temps425 is offline
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Yeah, the negative batt cable goes to engine and frame directly from terminal. I just checked the connections, wire brushed the terminal to frame and they look good...Could this be caused by swapping the 2 terminals on the alternator?
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Old 04-24-2008, 04:53 PM
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If you have a voltmeter just attach it to the terminals while its running. Shouldn't be any more than 14.0ish volts. Check it at idle and at a higher rpm see if the voltage spikes up with rpm. If you don't have a voltmeter, Autozone should be able to test it on car. I'm not too sure if swapping the wires on the regulator will cause it to overcharge, but if it isn't connected it will.
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Old 04-24-2008, 06:10 PM
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I have a volt meter. There are so many settings! do I dial in to 12v and put the pos. on pos. and neg on neg batt terminals?
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Old 04-25-2008, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by temps425
I have a volt meter. There are so many settings! do I dial in to 12v and put the pos. on pos. and neg on neg batt terminals?

Well, you want to read volts. On my multimeters, there is usually a dial in the center to select what to read, and what range of readings. Usually a few selections pertain to reading volts and that's what you want.

As for range, usually the ranges are 10V, 25V, 50V, 100V or numbers like that. Pick the lowest number *above* 12V to read your battery voltage.

Put the red lead on the + terminal and the black lead on the - terminal.

Michael
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Old 08-08-2008, 06:17 PM
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temps425 temps425 is offline
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OK, got the voltmeter to work. I tested the battery and it reads around 12.5 when off and 14.5 when running. What should it read when off?
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  #12  
Old 08-08-2008, 06:26 PM
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BarryL BarryL is offline
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That is about right. 14 to 14.5 is the alternator output. You need to raise the RPM up and make sure it doesn't go higher.
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  #13  
Old 08-08-2008, 10:42 PM
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a funky diode will mess with batteries and kill a cd player but still show up good
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Old 08-09-2008, 06:03 PM
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temps425 temps425 is offline
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I raised the idle very high and it stayed right at 14.5...Does that rule out the alternator/regulator?
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