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  #21  
Old 02-16-2018, 08:54 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acct21
Rick told me that was his biggest concern -- the high beams are actually wired through the stalk switch. Electrically speaking, the stalk switch is apparently nothing compared to the floor switch. A real weak link.
Thanks. Good Info!!

Quote:
I'd also like to wire it up so all 4 are lit with the brights on instead of just the inner 2.
Only the inners? I thought most traditional 4 lamp systems used a hi/lo on the outer. I've read the smaller lamps have some issues when used as boith hi and low. Apparently its a little cramped in there and requires very precise filiment placement and reflector and lens designs to do both well. (stuff I saw when searching for headlight info on candlepower forums)

Quote:
Hey, what year is the 'Cuda?
'67 There's some pics on my website.
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  #22  
Old 02-16-2018, 10:03 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acct21
Rick told me that was his biggest concern -- the high beams are actually wired through the stalk switch. Electrically speaking, the stalk switch is apparently nothing compared to the floor switch. A real weak link.

Thatís incorrect, both lo/hi are off the dimmer switch.
Itís really not a weak link, just a switch.
12ga in, 16ga out.
Late model wiring is superior to the early models IMHO.
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  #23  
Old 02-16-2018, 01:38 PM
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acct21 acct21 is offline
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Tony he probably said they both went through the dimmer/stalk switch -- I didn't mean to misrepresent what he said. He was more focused on the current going through the stalk -- a fairly long run of comparatively thin wire going back to feed the headlights.

16ga may be completely up to the task, but I certainly feel more comfortable with the relay system getting all of that out of the cab.
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  #24  
Old 02-16-2018, 03:23 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acct21
Tony he probably said they both went through the dimmer/stalk switch -- I didn't mean to misrepresent what he said. He was more focused on the current going through the stalk -- a fairly long run of comparatively thin wire going back to feed the headlights.

16ga may be completely up to the task, but I certainly feel more comfortable with the relay system getting all of that out of the cab.

For stock lamps & even the standard halogen sealed beam replacements 16ga is fine. Nothing wrong w/ improving design w/ relays, but unless existing stuff is damaged or dirty connections voltage gains will be very minimal.

Late model 12ga. via fusible link to switch, 12ga headlight switch to dimmer switch, 16ga to headlights. Headlight switch has built in breaker.
Now if someone is adding higher watt bulbs then it should be increased.

I like relays myself, and mine did gain few 1/10ths volt by adding them. The wiring was in poor shape after decades. Primarily the headlight socket connectors, and a few inches after on couple of wires after sockets. There was some tarnish on copper strands because no soldering of crimped connectors.
There is also chance if voltage loss due to going through bulkhead connectors.
Folks in rust belt or wet states probably have a bigger issue than like out west.

His harness was well built, I just didnít like the piggyback factor or leaving stock connectors there. Really no reason to keep it IMHO. Also not fond of wiring wrapped completely in tape. I prefer flexible loom myself.
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  #25  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:35 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yossarian19
I've had in mind that I could build those, and would enjoy trying to max-out the quality, but it seemed in poor taste to raise my hand on the forum. It still does, really.
Seems like an LED bulb retrofit could be pretty cost effective to achieve the same thing, while pulling less current out of our (old, low amperage) alternators as well.
LED lamps are another approach. As you say, they draw less current so relay system is less helpful. There were two models, one by JWSpeaker and the other by Trucklite, that perfomed well in some testing posting on Candlepower forums and an XJ forum. Not cheap, and some people may not like the look of the lamp or the light patterns. But those two both met SAE or ECE standards, so its a personal thing not a safety issue.
I believe they are both bolt in, same or similar housing shell as a sealed beam but worth double checking on that.
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  #26  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:02 AM
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nograin nograin is offline
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For those interested in purchasing a harnesses or kits, Rob wrote me back that he'll offer one based on the design approach he uses for mopars. (This is about making something you're comfortable selling and supporting/servicing, really nothing to do with brand of vehicle). Like I did on my car, it has seperate wires and sealed fuses for high and low. Here's pic he sent me of his version.



Here's what he wrote me about his harnesses:
Independent/redundant power supply for high and low beam
Tyco/Bosch relays

Home runs to each filament in the headlights, NO SPLICING
12ga American made wire

Shrink Tube installed on all wires

He's waiting for his membership here to activate. In the meantime, if anyone is interested, PM me for his contact info.

And maybe this really belongs over in the 'vender' forum.
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My other car is a fish
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  #27  
Old 02-18-2018, 09:26 AM
Studebaker1965 Studebaker1965 is offline
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I really like that setup. I'd like to do this to my 89. I feel competent to make one using Serehill's concept if I could see how it went together. Did Rob mention a price for his harness?

Thanks,
Nate
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  #28  
Old 02-18-2018, 01:09 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograin
Only the inners? I thought most traditional 4 lamp systems used a hi/lo on the outer. I've read the smaller lamps have some issues when used as boith hi and low. Apparently its a little cramped in there and requires very precise filiment placement and reflector and lens designs to do both well. (stuff I saw when searching for headlight info on candlepower forums)

'67 There's some pics on my website.

On the quad headlight GM trucks from 88(or 92 for SUV's)-98(01-i think, again for SUV's) The outers light for the standard low beams. When high beams are flicked on outers shut off and inner's come on.

I'm not surprised its cramped in those bulbs... They are pretty darn small!

Cool, What's the address to your website?
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  #29  
Old 02-18-2018, 09:30 PM
Tanker Tanker is offline
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All so driving a burb with working head lights, but no reflector in the sealed part is fun. Picked up a 95 burb with no silver backing on the lights it sucked driving it.
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  #30  
Old 02-18-2018, 11:10 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Studebaker1965
I really like that setup. I'd like to do this to my 89. I feel competent to make one using Serehill's concept if I could see how it went together. Did Rob mention a price for his harness?

Thanks,
Nate

Photos of Serehill's Harness are here:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=184659
Let me know if more details are needed. 8 Man posted that some people may have made diagrams of it too. Maybe they will add them to that thread.

Yes, I think Rob said around 125. That's probably what he's charging for the mopar ones, as he said its about the same amount of wire, parts and time. He may also sell the materials as a kit. I think so, but I may be confusing that with something or somebody else.
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  #31  
Old 02-18-2018, 11:18 PM
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nograin nograin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZackN920
On the quad headlight GM trucks from 88(or 92 for SUV's)-98(01-i think, again for SUV's) The outers light for the standard low beams. When high beams are flicked on outers shut off and inner's come on.

I'm not surprised its cramped in those bulbs... They are pretty darn small!

Cool, What's the address to your website?
Just click on my screen name and then homepage!

I'm going to be no help on the 'burban. I was thinking it had one of the older standardized size lamp systems.
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no "wood" outside
My other car is a fish
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  #32  
Old 02-18-2018, 11:27 PM
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ZackN920 ZackN920 is offline
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No big deal bud. I'm sure there's something out there for it. I just need to do more research, whenever I remember too.

Sweet 'Cuda! I like that thing!
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AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 3.31gears
rusty-rusty-rusty

The other's
1987 Dodge Dakota LE 3.9,A999TF,3.90gears(Stored)
1994 GMC 'Burban L05-5.7,4L60E,3.73gears(DD)
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  #33  
Old 02-20-2018, 04:53 PM
crackedback crackedback is offline
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Thanks to Matt/nograin for the heads up. Sorry to hear about the passing of Serehill and his contributions here. It's people like him that make the internet forums a great place for information and assistance. Condolences to all his family and friends for the loss.

I build these headlight kits all the time for many different cars. I also do power window, vert top pump, electric fuel pump, electric fan, AC compressor and about anything else that can be powered using a relay.

I can buy those cheaper kits for between $3-5 per unit landed, put it in another box, sell it for 30-50, make a profit and be done. I choose to build a much better kit using better engineering and higher quality components. If anyone buys one of those cheaper kits, I would check every single crimp in the system. You may be surprised that crimps are not always completed properly. I have received about 8 of those kits from people that bought them originally and bought mine to replace it. All had issues with wire terminations. A couple of folks said after they had to replace relays, terminals and time involved, that they wish they had just bought mine to begin with. If I mess up a termination (yes it happens ) it gets cut off and redone.

I will not use chinese relays in my kits as the failure rates are very high. Tyco/Bosch only. Ask Hella, if they want to be honest, what happened to their failure rates when manufacturing moved to China. In the years I've been building relay kits, I've had ZERO relay failures. I'll guess the number of relays in service is close to 2000 across all items.

This is a business for me and I have partners... Uncle Sam and California that take their pound of flesh.

I will also custom build a kit for anyone that wants one, placing relays where you want and tailor wires to fit. All I need are measurements and it will be done too your spec, no additional charge.

As Matt mentioned, I will also sell all the components to build a kit yourself if so inclined. Parts only, parts/wire/shrink... whatever you choose.

If you have any questions about the kit or why I engineer it the way I do, please ask. There are a lot of ways too skin a cat. If you choose my kit, thanks, if not, that's cool too. Plenty of choices out there, some are better than others.

Here is a for sale thread on the "For A Bodies Only" site.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/...y-kits.216514/

As I say

Pick your part, Pay your money.

Thanks

Rob aka Crackedback
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  #34  
Old 02-20-2018, 07:49 PM
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dbabicky dbabicky is offline
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I am currently using a "Plug and Play" harness I ordered off of LMC Truck. It is for a 2 headlight square body Chevy. $30.00 . Works awesome. I used the same harness on my 1998 Wrangler, my 2000 K3500 Chevy and my 1998 Cherokee. I have also installed the H-4 conversion on my Wrangler. Love it. They also have a version for 4 headlight systems if you have any vehicles with 4 headlights.
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