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  #21  
Old 02-21-2019, 06:41 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Yesterday was power steering day. Turned out the pump was also leaking (in addition to the pressure hose). So I hunted around for a new pump in the morning and installed the pump, hoses and new belts in the afternoon.

Today I repaired a rust spot in the forward corner of the roof, which I discovered when I pulled the windshield. I cut out the bad metal, fabricated a metal patch, and welded it in. Very time consuming. Tomorrow I will definitely begin body work on the cab.


Attached are photos of the painted tailgate hanging over the hood of the Jaguar like the Sword of Damacles. (I'm running out of inside space to hang/store body parts). Anyway, it gives a good idea of how the hot rod black color will appear. I painted the tailgate twice because I was initially unhappy with the bodywork and then again because I was unhappy with the orange peel. Note that this will be a single stage finish, although I could overcoat with clear later.

DSCN1422 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1423 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-21-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-24-2019, 07:15 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Two days expended on prepping the cab, touching up the ding repairs and partial masking. Tomorrow I'll mask off the doors and shoot the epoxy followed by urethane primer. Tuesday I'll block sandthe primer. Rain is forecast for Wednesday...I'll switch focus to prepping the doors (in the garage). I hope to shoot color on the cab and maybe the doors at the end of the week.

The forward felt window runners arrived. Nice quality. The originals are attached to the vent window tracks with very small steel rivets (not in the kit). Has anyone done this repair, and what did you use for attaching hardware?

DSCN1425 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1431 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1430 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-24-2019 at 07:24 PM.
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:03 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
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nice progress

going to look great when finished.

keep us posted.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #24  
Old 02-25-2019, 09:28 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Join Date: Oct 31, 2016
Location: Camarillo, CA
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My goodness you work fast!
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  #25  
Old 02-25-2019, 07:32 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Nine hour days with no lunch yesterday and today. Trying to beat the rain. Finished up the masking this morning. Set up for painting early afternoon. The original plan was to paint it outside, but the wind was very gusty...lots of tree stuff falling. So it went into the makeshift booth in the garage. Black epoxy went on pretty well, but the HVLP turbine generates a lot of heat in the air stream, so initial cure time (thumbprint test) is very fast. By the time I got the cup cleaned for the gray urethane primer, the gun was starting to clog. And clearing an epoxy clog is a beech. So I lost some time there. I bought some hi-temp/slow reducer and need to start using it. Love the HVLP turbine gun though.


After the black epoxy I could see that my body work sux (as usual), so sprayed on multiple coats of the gray primer in the bad spots. Hoping I can block sand them out without adding more skim putty, but we'll see. As you can see it was getting dark by the time I got the truck out of the garage.

DSCN1434 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1436 by Rufus, on Flickr
[url=https://flic.kr/p/2eRv2as][img]
Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1437 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1438 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 02-25-2019 at 07:48 PM.
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  #26  
Old 03-01-2019, 07:06 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 919
Well, the DFW weather keeps throwing a wrench in the works. The cab shell is about ready for color, but it was too cold to paint today....now looking at early next week. I attached a photo of the truck's covered storage spot behind the fence. The roof leaks a little as it's been bombarded with golf ball size hail a couple of times. Pretty Rube Goldbberg, but it cuts down the UV.

I worked on the doors in the semi-heated garage today. The vent window assemblies are apart and waiting for reassembly with the new felt lined tracks for the side windows. I need to find some fasteners as
I ground offthe originals.Then I'll have all the side windows retinted...don't have time to do it myself again. I want this thing done by the end of March.

Cleaned up the doors. The back side and inside looked pretty much like when I repainted them more than a decade ago. The black epoxy held up very well where it was not bombarded by UV. No rust inside the doors. I lined them with some left over Fat Mat from the Jaguar project to cut down on the noise in the cab. The body filler work is nearly there...mostly where I welded the holes for the original GW mirrors shut. I'll try to get the doors in epoxy/primer over the next few days, so that I can do a single color spray event for the cab and doors. Once I get that cab in color, I can reinstall the bed and free up the other bay in the garage. The bed still needs the Raptor sprayed in, but that can wait. Same for the fiberglass rear fenders. Lordy, I do hate body work.

DSCN1443 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1448 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1449 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1456 by Rufus, on DSCN1460 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1461 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2019, 10:08 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
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Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 667
looks like you have been very busy.

going to be nice

I know you are itching to spray it

after all the sanding and prep.

good you have the garage to work in while it is nasty outside.

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
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  #28  
Old 03-03-2019, 05:11 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Too cold to paint today, so I reassembled the vent window tracks with the new felt inserts. Straight forward task...grind off the original rivet heads, extract the worn out felt/fuzzy track inserts and reassemble with new. Again the new inserts are very nicely made with holes in exactly the correct locations. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets from Ace Hardware...shortest length available. Worked great...the heads are well below the fuzzy stuff. I'll clean up the frames and repaint when it warms up. Will paint the rivet heads black. This little task took about two hours including hunting down the rivet gun.

DSCN1463 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1462 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #29  
Old 03-08-2019, 07:38 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Finally got two good weather days in a row. Painted the cab in color coat yesterday and the inside of the bed and tailgate in epoxy followed by Raptor bed liner today. Hail is forecast for tonight, and with the damned bed taking up one space in the garage, my wife's Acura is sitting outside. All because the media blaster took two weeks to get the fenders, hood, etc out the door, and another two weeks to get the cab and chassis blasted. Oh well, I did beat the bugs, which should start hatching around here any day now. Here are some photos... Doing this piecemeal results in endless taping and masking. And I'm finishing up the fourth gallon of acetone because of all the small jobs followed by gun cleanup. The epoxy, hardened urethanes, and Raptor urethane are murder on spray guns if left to sit for very long. Still lovin' that turbine HVLP....anywhere I can string an extension cord I can haul the sucker to the site. And I figured out the secret to eliminating orange peel is lots of thinner, setting the gun on heavy paint flow and holding the gun close to the surface. Anyway, I'm finally on the down hill with this project. Doors are ready to paint and reassemble...that leaves the rear (fiberglass) fenders. Oh...and repaint the dash and install the windshield.

DSCN1468 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1467 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1466 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1464 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1472 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1473 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1475 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1478 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1479 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-08-2019 at 07:49 PM.
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2019, 08:26 PM
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GWNashville GWNashville is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 28, 2016
Location: Nashville
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Great work. Love that truck. Thanks for all the pictures.
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1989 Grand Wagoneer 360 c.i.
Serehill Rear Glass and Fog Light Harness.
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  #31  
Old 03-09-2019, 07:45 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 919
Dodged a bullet early this morning...quarter sized hail about a mile south and golf ball size a couple miles north. That bed has to be mated to the chassis so I can get all the vehicles under a roof....Spring in NE Texas = Hail.

First thing this morning I finished some small brackets along the bottom edge of the bed. Later on I'm going make some rubber sight barriers that hide the gap between the frame and the bed for a cleaner look. After that I finished some odds and ends on the rear of chassis...sanded and painted drive shaft and shocks, restrung the tail light wiring. Took all day, but the bed is ready to install on the chassis tomorrow morning...I get my garage back.

Attached a couple of photos. ( I'm going to paint that rear window frame black). The second photo depicts the gas tank mounting brackets I fabricated to support the tank during the painting process. This allowed me to move the truck around. (I drove it back from the blaster with all front and rear sheet metal removed). The front bracket bolts into holes in the hoop shaped frame cross piece. The rear one is tack welded to the cross bar for the goose neck hitch. Anyway, I need to put the motorcycle jack under the tank in the morning and then remove those special brackets (the tank is normally suspended from the bed).

DSCN1483 by Rufus, on Flickr

DSCN1485 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-09-2019 at 08:21 PM.
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  #32  
Old 03-09-2019, 11:06 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Join Date: Apr 26, 2012
Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Is the paint single stage or are you going to clear it? I ask because most base coats that are intended to be cleared only have a day or two window for the clear coat to be applied.
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  #33  
Old 03-10-2019, 03:08 AM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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The Eastwood satin black is a catalyzed single stage urethane which is good to go for UV. It would have to be sanded to apply clear coat.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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  #34  
Old 03-10-2019, 02:17 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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...got my garage back. My 110 pound spouse helped me maneuver the bed out of the garage and set it on the frame. (Third time we've done it, so we're both pretty practiced). Gas tank is bolted in place. I have to reset the angle of the bed, since I lowered the cab another 1/2" when the bed was at the sand blaster. The cab is at a 3 degree angle and the bed at 4.5 degrees, so the back end has to drop a bit.

Photos attached. I thought some folks might be interested in a couple of the Cadillac Eldorado calipers that I added to the AMC 20 axle many years ago after one of the drums grabbed sooner than the other while towing in the rain. These calipers have a built in parking brake, which simplifies the overall installation. The only issue was finding a clocking position that would work with the handbrake cable. So they're mounted upside down and on opposite sides from the Eldorado. This requires that the calipers be removed from the brackets and flipped right side up to bleed them. I stick a piece of wood the thickness of the disk between the pads. When the air is bled, flip over nd mount them on the axle.

The rest of the day is for straightening up the mess in the garage. Milestone day.

DSCN1487 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1492 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1493 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1494 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1489 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1490 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-10-2019 at 05:45 PM.
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  #35  
Old 03-17-2019, 03:02 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
Posts: 919
Nice temperatures, but bugs.....I'll take it.

There's now some space in the garage to spread out projects a bit...and I can get two cars inside if the weather threatens. I finished an in-the-car respray of the dash yesterday...turned out decent...had to be done now so that I can install the windshield (that should happen early this week).

I also epoxied and urethane primed the doors. A few very small dings became apparent when I sprayed on the wet, black epoxy, but I had to get the gray primer on while the epoxy was still "open". Hacks me off because I spend a lot of time prepping the doors. I'll do the guide paint spray trick when I block the primer, and fix the dings at that point. Oh, well, what's a couple more days.

Since I had the inner wheel wells powder coated, I decided to clean up the front sheet metal to match. The chassis black paint is almost the same sheen, so it should look nice. I stripped the old paint and undercoating and then sprayed on two heavy coats of black epoxy followed by two more coats of chassis black. Should be a tough finish for that tough environment. By the way, the third photo shows where I cut out a section of the radiator support sheet metal as part of the body channel and revised front end treatment. It gives a more pronounced "scoop" look for the raised opening in the hood, especially with the horizontal trim bar removed (see the very first photo in this string). The trim bar holes are welded shut.

So, the big remaining items are final paint on the doors, and prep/paint the rear fenders and rear roll pan....relatively small jobs in comparison to the cab and bed. Some more photos...

DSCN1506 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1516 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1514 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1513 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-17-2019 at 08:26 PM.
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  #36  
Old 03-18-2019, 05:57 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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The windshield was installed today by a couple of pros. Took them about 45 minutes. Best $120 (plus tip) I've spent so far on this refurbish project. The windshield glass was $95, the very high quality seal from Team GW was about a hundred delivered. One thing I learned from the installation guys was that modern urethane sealant should not be used with old style rubber seals...use the old type goop. They put a bead on the cab flange, (added a little extra at the corners at my request), pushed the seal onto the flange. Then they slid the top right corner of the glass into the seal, then worked the rubber over the glass along the top edge with a special tool until they got the top left corner into the seal. With the top edge and corners in position, the sides and bottom fairly fell into place with only minor help from a special tool. Then they muscled it around a little to get it seated just right and used another tool to force the locking flap (no separate locking strip) into place. Once it was locked into position they inserted the tip of what looked like an old trigger actuated oil can under the outer flap of the and squeezed a second bead of adhesive between the glass and the seal. Perfect clean up, moved the rear view mirror lug to the new glass, moved my registration sticker, put the old glass on their truck, I paid the bill, and they were on their way. Fast and efficient. That said, I had the old glass removed, the flange was clean as a whistle, and the sheet metal around the perimeter of the seal was masked with tape.

Earlier this morning I bolted the dash back in place (I had partially removed it for painting), then repainted the front radiator support sheet metal (that I painted yesterday) for a better match to the sheen on the powder coated inner fenders. Late this afternoon I sprayed guide coat paint on the doors and block sanded. The little dings that I had missed prior to epoxy and primer are easy to spot and an easy fix. Waiting on another quart of primer from Eastwood... By the way, this job will have taken two gallons of epoxy, six quarts of urethane primer, two quarts of chassis black, and about six quarts of black satin urethane top coat. The bed took three quarts of Raptor.

Tomorrow I'll replace the power steering gear, and install the heater module, which has been out of the car for about twenty years! (The air conditioning will be installed later). The steering and heater are best done before installing the inner fenders. And then I can start bolting on the painted forward sheet metal.

Photos with glass....boring, but a big step that required outside help to show up to keep me on schedule.

DSCN1519 by Rufus, on Flickr
DSCN1520 by Rufus, on Flickr
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-18-2019 at 06:27 PM.
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  #37  
Old 03-18-2019, 09:16 PM
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GWNashville GWNashville is offline
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Location: Nashville
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Looking good!!!
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1989 Grand Wagoneer 360 c.i.
Serehill Rear Glass and Fog Light Harness.
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  #38  
Old 03-18-2019, 09:58 PM
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bkilby bkilby is online now
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Location: Burbank Ca.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Towtruck
Then they muscled it around a little to get it seated just right and used another tool to force the locking flap (no separate locking strip) into place.




Are you talking about the chrome trim for the windshield seal? I'd like to find one that doesn't require it. Or even have a provision for it.
Looks good btw.
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  #39  
Old 03-18-2019, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
Are you talking about the chrome trim for the windshield seal? I'd like to find one that doesn't require it. Or even have a provision for it.
Looks good btw.

No the gasket has a channel & locking strip to seal better.
You can buy gaskets for non stainless trim @ least they used to be available new.
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  #40  
Old 03-18-2019, 10:06 PM
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Towtruck Towtruck is offline
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Join Date: Oct 11, 2001
Location: Arlington, Texas
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Yes, the seal has a slot for the chrome trim. I tried and was unable to find one without the slot. But it's almost invisible for those of us who want to go without the chrome. Once again, the seal from Team GW is an extremely nice product. Perfect fit, supple rubber...the installers commented about the quality. They said they've had to deal with some really crap seals in the past. (No affiliation with TGW, just a happy customer). I also purchased the fuzzy forward track liners for the side windows from them and was pleased with the quality and fit. After struggling with poor quality aftermarket parts during my Jaguar restoration, this is a revelation.
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J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.

Last edited by Towtruck : 03-20-2019 at 05:08 AM.
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