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  #61  
Old 04-21-2020, 02:38 PM
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Simo Simo is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 21, 2017
Location: North East, PA
Posts: 60
Ok thanks again for the comment DarkMonohue. Here's the sensor installed in a new hole upstream of the converter with its wiring wrapped away from the driveshaft. The first downstream hole is currently plugged with an old/bad 4.0L's sensor until i get a simple plug.



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  #62  
Old 04-23-2020, 11:00 PM
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DarkMonohue DarkMonohue is offline
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Location: PNW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simo
Ok thanks again for the comment DarkMonohue. Here's the sensor installed in a new hole upstream of the converter with its wiring wrapped away from the driveshaft. The first downstream hole is currently plugged with an old/bad 4.0L's sensor until i get a simple plug.
No problem. That looks like it will work great. The plug should be easy to find. That M18x1.5 thread is used everywhere. Toyota has used it for drain and fill plugs on most manual transmissions, transfer cases, and differentials for many decades. If you have trouble finding one, let me know, and I'll mail you one of my extras.
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  #63  
Old Yesterday, 07:22 AM
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Simo Simo is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Dec 21, 2017
Location: North East, PA
Posts: 60
Brake Controller

I'd been wanting the option of using the FSJ for local light duty towing and started wondering where to mount a brake controller. The few options I considered were (1) on the lower dash just below and to the right of the steering column by driver's right knee, (2) replace the ash tray slot in the dash, or (3) reconfigure the new glove box gauge panel. A brake controller should be within quick arms reach and the display should be visible so these options seemed reasonable. I already had a dash mounted fuel tank selection switch just below and to the right of the steering column replacing one of the cigarette lighters and just didnt like the conflicting real estate to put the controller there. I didn't feel like re-fabricating and rewiring a new glove box panel but i think this could have been the cleanest method. I don't smoke or use the ashtray to keep small things considering the center console can handle storage so started crafting a method to replace the ash tray slot in the dash.



I had an old Reese Pilot controller that got replaced with a nicer controller in my diesel truck. If I don't like the cheaper time based control I can always upgrade to an inertia based controller later. The Reese controller conceptually fit in the ash tray slot with room to spare so an AL plate was fashioned to provide a slip fit. A dab of JB weld locks it in place for now. The dash tabs that used to secure the ash tray sliding mechanism were folded forward to the dash surface plane and the new brake controller mounting plate secures to those tabs. The controller does protrude from the surface a few inches since the slide and side adjust dial need to be accessible. I was thinking about mounting the controller to the ash tray's slide so it could retract flush to the dash surface when not in use but decided to just keep it simple.



The controller needs a 12ga fused +12V (black), 12ga GRND (white), a tap off the cold side of the brake switch (red), and an 12ga output (blue) to the trailer connector. Here is a generic diagram off etrailer website for reference:


I bought a Reese Towpower 85060 Brake Controller installation kit since the FSJ doesnt have a plug and play harness already. It does however at least have a brake switched plug I was able to simply tap into. It's the out of focus plug in the foreground with red and pink wires. The red has constant +12v and the pink is the cold side of the brake switch that is needed for input to the brake controller.



I mounted the trailer connector, a Hopkins multi tow adapter #47185 with both 4 pin flat and 7 pin plugs https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/a2f...odnBg=ff ffff, up behind the rear bumper and left some excess wire in a loop for whenever I build my own rear bumper.

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  #64  
Old Yesterday, 10:21 AM
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Simo Simo is offline
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Join Date: Dec 21, 2017
Location: North East, PA
Posts: 60
Towing Considerations

The door jamb sticker on this FSJ is worn away so it doesnt show the GVWR and GAWR front and rear.


It an S model Cherokee with a 360, TH400 auto trans, and quadratrac tcase having the MM part time conversion kit installed. Axle gearing is 3.54 and it has an auxiliary trans cooler (not sure if factory or aftermarket).

Can anyone help me fill in the sticker GVWR and GAWR values? From what i can find for other FSJs the GVWR might be around 6200# and the GAWRs in the 3000-3500# range for the front and rear dana 44s.

As for towing limits, the Jeep factory manual I referenced is kind of vague on the topic instead just advising to stay below all the individual limits: GVWR, GAWR, hitch, ball & mount, etc...
https://oljeep.com/gw/79_tsm/79_Jeep_TSM.pdf

The FSJ's hitch has a 2x2" receiver and is mounted with 3 bolts on each side that go through the frame with a sleeve and plate. So Im assuming this is a Class III hitch with ratings well beyond anything I plan to pull behind this rig.

I'll start small and see how it responds to holding any speed uphill, braking within a safe distance, and tracking stable down the road before hauling much of any load. I have a diesel truck for anything more.

Ready to rock

Last edited by Simo : Yesterday at 08:09 PM.
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