Pic of rocker panel and step plate?

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  • Coley
    327 Rambler
    • Apr 13, 2000
    • 675
    #1

    Pic of rocker panel and step plate?

    I had a similar post not too long ago. Maybe this one is clearer.

    Could someone snap a pic or take a look at their rocker panel and step plate on their rear doors? I'm trying to determine if the aluminum step plate is too long on mine.

    The front part of the step plate overlaps a raised section\joint on the rocker panel, when it seems it should fit flush against it. This leaves a small space between the rocker panel and the step plate for water to collect.

    I will pull the door panel and check the rain shield-that'll deal with water coming in at the window, but I'm also getting water in through the foam weatherstrip that surrounds the door, and that's flowing directly on the step plate and pooling between the step plate and rocker panel.

    I would go to a boneyard or stop someone around here with an FSJ, but I can go 3 or 4 months without seeing another one, and I've vowed never to go back to the only yard around with FSJ's. Evil parts nazi.

    Thanks,




    ------------------
    360 727 NP229
    Totally stock
    "You're obsessed with that thing!"
    Daddy\'s Ice Cream Truck (4 yr old daugter named it)<br />84 GW<br />360 727 NP229<p>\"..Dooley had two daughters and a 40 gallon still..\"
    Tags: None
  • Wagthe78
    232 I6
    • Oct 18, 2000
    • 157
    #2
    I think I know what you need to know. Sort of hard to commuicate a widget on top of a gizmo and get across exactly what you mean, huh?

    I opened my rear door and found that the orig. alum. step cover that attaches to the top portion of the rocker does indeed end about 1" short of where the curve starts for the door post member. In the rear it butts to the vertical member. Basically it fits flat.

    I think that's what you needed to know.

    Secondly, if your door is leaking, then I would suspect two things. 1. Rotten door rubber (replace if sqeezed flat enough to fit under a cockroach's threshold) OR 2. you need to adjust the door alignment (hinges adjust by loosing screws in door), the door's in/out position (adjusted by moving door strike in or out)

    Comment

    • Coley
      327 Rambler
      • Apr 13, 2000
      • 675
      #3
      Wagthe78,
      Thanks,
      It seems yours is like mine. If you were to take the two screws out of the step plate, you would see a "seam" in the rocker panel, and the step plate is just baaarely long enough to cover that seam. If you remove the step plate, upon replacing it you can allllmost fit it flush against the seam and wedge it against the cross memeber in the back.

      Well, I guess it's meant to overlap like that.

      On my leak problems..It's coming in the door post area between the front and rear doors. It flows down, over the hinges, and instead of flowing AWAY from the vehicle once it gets to the bottom, it flows onto the step plate. It's not supposed to do that, is it?

      Thanks again for the assist.




      ------------------
      360 727 NP229
      Totally stock
      "You're obsessed with that thing!"
      Daddy\'s Ice Cream Truck (4 yr old daugter named it)<br />84 GW<br />360 727 NP229<p>\"..Dooley had two daughters and a 40 gallon still..\"

      Comment

      • Wagthe78
        232 I6
        • Oct 18, 2000
        • 157
        #4
        Now I'm curious as to how my drains! Next time I'm at the spray&wash I'll check it out. When I put the jeep together, I assumed the water would just drain out under the step plate, but I never really thought about it. Are you getting rust starting at that seam your talking about?

        I didn't notice any unusual rust around there when I prepped it for paint, so I didn't braze the seam, or even use new seam sealer. Just another spot to worry about.

        But I'm really curious to see if mine drains down the hinges. Where is this water coming from? Is it just casual water from road spray, or is something leaking down the side, if so, from where?
        The bottom sill gets wet from the seep holes in the door bottoms (as I'm sure you well know) But I never suspected water getting down the sides.

        Comment

        • WINGO
          327 Rambler
          • May 06, 2000
          • 620
          #5
          Coley:

          I believe that this is the picture that you are looking for:
          http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1330817




          ------------------
          WINGO
          Vineland, NJ
          USA
          1984 GW 360
          Rough Country/Heckethorn 2 1/4" AAL (actual lift)
          Rough Country/Heckethorn Nitro 9000 Shocks
          <b>WINGO</b><br />Vineland, NJ<br />USA<br /> 1984 GW 360 <br />Front Axle: \'79 W/T, SOA<br />Rear Axle: \'80 W/T, Riverbeast Kit<br />Body: 3 \" Body Lift<br />Transfer case: \'82 CJ, Twin Stick Dana 300<br />Wheels: Stock Rims w/ 31\" X 10.5\" Kelly MT<p>A good reason to buy Todd\'s kit!<br />http://imaget.webphotos.iwon.com/100...PM0.601864.jpg

          Comment

          • Coley
            327 Rambler
            • Apr 13, 2000
            • 675
            #6
            Wagthe78,
            Yeah, I'm getting a little rust area started on the passenger side near the "seam" where the water is not draining.
            I wish the rocker was a little more slanted, so the water would run off better.

            Wingo,
            Thanks!
            I think the pic may not be posted to the right place or something. It's not showing up.
            I wish I had a digital camera. (snif snif)



            ------------------
            360 727 NP229
            Totally stock
            "You're obsessed with that thing!"
            Daddy\'s Ice Cream Truck (4 yr old daugter named it)<br />84 GW<br />360 727 NP229<p>\"..Dooley had two daughters and a 40 gallon still..\"

            Comment

            • Wagthe78
              232 I6
              • Oct 18, 2000
              • 157
              #7
              Yeah, it figures. Mine probably is too, but I ain't gonna look until the next repaint. I shot it about 3 years ago, and everywhere there's an outside seam there's a little rust stain seepage.

              I think next time I fix the body on this thing for the next full paint, I'm gonna braze every seam and make it a uni-body!!! Yeah, and I could paint it back to that factory rust color to hide any future rust

              Comment

              • WINGO
                327 Rambler
                • May 06, 2000
                • 620
                #8
                Coley:

                Try it now.

                http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=1330817



                Good luck!


                ------------------
                WINGO
                Vineland, NJ
                USA
                1984 GW 360
                Rough Country/Heckethorn 2 1/4" AAL (actual lift)
                Rough Country/Heckethorn Nitro 9000 Shocks
                <b>WINGO</b><br />Vineland, NJ<br />USA<br /> 1984 GW 360 <br />Front Axle: \'79 W/T, SOA<br />Rear Axle: \'80 W/T, Riverbeast Kit<br />Body: 3 \" Body Lift<br />Transfer case: \'82 CJ, Twin Stick Dana 300<br />Wheels: Stock Rims w/ 31\" X 10.5\" Kelly MT<p>A good reason to buy Todd\'s kit!<br />http://imaget.webphotos.iwon.com/100...PM0.601864.jpg

                Comment

                • Coley
                  327 Rambler
                  • Apr 13, 2000
                  • 675
                  #9
                  Thank ya' Wingo!

                  That answered my question.



                  ------------------
                  360 727 NP229
                  Totally stock
                  "You're obsessed with that thing!"
                  Daddy\'s Ice Cream Truck (4 yr old daugter named it)<br />84 GW<br />360 727 NP229<p>\"..Dooley had two daughters and a 40 gallon still..\"

                  Comment

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