Antenna Replacement

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  • aktrapper
    232 I6
    • Aug 29, 2008
    • 115

    Antenna Replacement

    I know this is going to sound lame - it should be too easy to do, but how do I replace the stereo antenna?

    I replaced the missing radio and hooked everything up but couldn't get reception so I pulled the antenna. The end connector was missing and the wire was in the body and too tight to pull through the body panel, I assume it is crimped in place somewhere. Are there any hold-downs or is it just stuck on something?

    What do I need to remove under the dash to replace the cable? Is under the dash even the right way to attack this? I've looked everywhere for a tutorial but can't find one and my TSM is still in my cart at BJ's, I need to get it paid for and on the way.

    Anyone have a link to a tutorial or how-to? Thanks in advance.
    Certified Novice Mechanic...
    89 Grand Wagoneer (AMC 360/TF727/NP229)

    A work in progress!
  • SOLSAKS
    304 AMC
    • Jul 25, 2016
    • 1781

    #2
    go to
    oljeep.com

    click TSM option in menu at left
    then pick TSM for your year.

    has all the TSM's

    dave in NC
    SOLSAKS - dave
    1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
    1982 J-10 Fleetside
    1988 grand wagoneer
    2004 RUBICON jeep
    Benson, NC

    Comment

    • SJTD
      304 AMC
      • Apr 26, 2012
      • 1953

      #3
      As far as I can remember, mine came out the top of the fender. Four screws. Should be evident.

      Just remember when you install the new one to have a loop of cable in the fender and have the cable running up to the hole in the kick panel. This causes any water collecting on the cable to drip off rather than run down the cable into the interior.
      Sic friatur crustulum

      '84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.

      Comment

      • aktrapper
        232 I6
        • Aug 29, 2008
        • 115

        #4
        Thanks SJTD,
        I was able to remove the actual antenna and base just fine but the cable is hung up in the body somewhere between the base and the radio. I'm wondering the best way yo get the old cable out and the new one in.
        Certified Novice Mechanic...
        89 Grand Wagoneer (AMC 360/TF727/NP229)

        A work in progress!

        Comment

        • tgreese
          • May 29, 2003
          • 11682

          #5
          There should be a hole in the kick panel up under the dash that the antenna wire comes though. This goes into the inner fender area that forms the fresh air vents at your feet. The area between the fender is inaccessible, so there can't be a clamp or such in there unless someone pinched the wire when replacing the fender or something similar. If so, I'd probably cut it off and push the remaining cable into the fender, and use a stiff wire to find the route between the cowl-top hole and the hole under the dash.



          Here's what it should look like under the dash.



          Last edited by tgreese; 10-08-2019, 11:26 AM.
          Tim Reese
          Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
          Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
          Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
          GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
          ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

          Comment

          • chubbinius
            258 I6
            • Oct 31, 2018
            • 294

            #6
            Originally posted by tgreese
            There should be a hole in the kick panel up under the dash that the antenna wire comes though. This goes into the inner fender area that forms the fresh air vents at your feet. If you have the wire going through there already, you could use the original wire to pull the new wire through the fender, or pull though a string or smaller wire that can be used to feed through the new antenna wire.
            You're a much faster typer than me, Tim. I was just typing along the same line; adding to yours too...check that area for where your antenna wire might be hanging up, aktrapper, sometimes it gets caught on the lip of the hole or on the vent/cover itself if it's run through there.
            Last edited by chubbinius; 10-09-2019, 07:05 AM.
            1970 1414X Wagoneer "The Pig"
            -Dauntless 350 V8
            -D27 front/D44 rear
            2006 XK (65th Ann Edition)-DD

            Comment

            • aktrapper
              232 I6
              • Aug 29, 2008
              • 115

              #7
              Perfect - that's exactly what I needed. Thanks guys!
              Certified Novice Mechanic...
              89 Grand Wagoneer (AMC 360/TF727/NP229)

              A work in progress!

              Comment

              • rang-a-stang
                Administrator
                • Oct 31, 2016
                • 5505

                #8
                When you pull it through, attach a wire or cable or something like a trail of crumbs. Makes is MMMMMUUUuuch easier to install. You pull the old antenna cable out with rope/string/wire attached. Then you attach the new rope/string/wire to the new connector and pull it back down. The first time i tried swapping antennas I had a bear of a time trying to make the corner into the cab...
                Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                (Cherokee Build Thread)
                11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                00 Baby Cherokee

                Comment

                • Pasta_Man
                  232 I6
                  • Apr 08, 2016
                  • 45

                  #9
                  Hi all - is it possible to replace the antenna without removing the A/C box under the dash? Doesn't look like there's much room there unless I remove the A/C box.

                  Comment

                  • ZackN920
                    350 Buick
                    • Nov 18, 2015
                    • 944

                    #10
                    Doubt it, pretty sure it has to be moved out of the way. Don't know what year your's is Pasta_Man, but its not hard to do (at least on the later Jeeps). Most of the screws line the front of the dash and there is one by the blower motor. That's it! You may have to loosen the dash to get it down on the floor, but that's one more bolt at the kick panel on that side, then you should be able to manipulate things how you want.
                    1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                    AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                    Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                    ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                    Comment

                    • ZackN920
                      350 Buick
                      • Nov 18, 2015
                      • 944

                      #11
                      Originally posted by tgreese
                      WOW Look at that wonderful factory caulk job! No wonder why these things are leakers!


                      Probably why my cowel leaks onto the passenger floor, and of coarse I can't fix it unless I cut the jeep apart
                      1990 Jeep Grand Wagoneer-"Big Jeep"

                      AMC 360, TF727, NP229, 2.72 gears, 2" lift
                      Rancho 44044 springs, Rusty's 2" AAL, TFI w/ MSD C/R
                      ...in pieces for more rust repair...

                      Comment

                      • rang-a-stang
                        Administrator
                        • Oct 31, 2016
                        • 5505

                        #12
                        Originally posted by ZackN920
                        Doubt it, pretty sure it has to be moved out of the way. Don't know what year your's is Pasta_Man, but its not hard to do (at least on the later Jeeps). Most of the screws line the front of the dash and there is one by the blower motor. That's it! You may have to loosen the dash to get it down on the floor, but that's one more bolt at the kick panel on that side, then you should be able to manipulate things how you want.
                        Yeah, dropping it on my 79 is a piece of cake, too. 1/4" bolts across the front and the bracket in the back. If you have never done it, you assume it's a big pain and you are going to make a mess but it's not.

                        I'm with ZackN920; you probably could do it without dropping the A/C but you are avoiding a <5 minute/free job (lowering the A/C) to make another 15 min job take MUCH longer, require MANY more cuss words, and a few bandaids.
                        Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                        (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                        (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                        79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                        (Cherokee Build Thread)
                        11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                        09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                        00 Baby Cherokee

                        Comment

                        • Pasta_Man
                          232 I6
                          • Apr 08, 2016
                          • 45

                          #13
                          Thanks.
                          I have an '89.

                          My mechanic recharged the freon recently, and I was worried that lowering the AC unit (wouldn't I need to disconnected the hoses?) would cause me to have to recharge it.

                          Comment

                          • rang-a-stang
                            Administrator
                            • Oct 31, 2016
                            • 5505

                            #14
                            Correct! No need to open the system, remove hoses, or recharge.
                            Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
                            (Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
                            (8.1L swap questions - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums​)
                            79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
                            (Cherokee Build Thread)
                            11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
                            09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
                            00 Baby Cherokee

                            Comment

                            • tgreese
                              • May 29, 2003
                              • 11682

                              #15
                              Originally posted by ZackN920
                              WOW Look at that wonderful factory caulk job! No wonder why these things are leakers!
                              ...
                              Arizona truck - not surprisingly - the floors had some rust. Picture was originally taken to show the leak location. You can seal that gap without cutting the cowl open.
                              Tim Reese
                              Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
                              Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
                              Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
                              GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
                              ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

                              Comment

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