What Xfer case behind my 700R4 Swap.

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  • Tubro
    232 I6
    • Oct 03, 2000
    • 204

    What Xfer case behind my 700R4 Swap.

    I need a case to bolt up to a 700R4. Everything I own has Dana 20s or 18s so I know nothing (Yeah I watch too much Hogan's Heroes) about New Process boxes. I need a Pass side drop. I was thinking of just buying the $700 kit to use my D20 cause I love the U shaped **** pattern stick in my J10. I figure after I buy a good Xfer, maybe have to rebuild it, I may come out only a couple hundred cheaper. I like the D20 and KNOW the D20. What do you guys think. Also, if I put the 20 behind a 700R4, does anyone know where the stick will come through the floor at. If it hits the dash I'm screwed, and the same if it wants to pop up under the seat!

    Thanks
    Brian

    Oh yeah, I had to edit this and add this one. This is my pavement pounder. I never sees anything REAL offroading. The only thing I use 4 wheel drive for is Ice, and when I get stuck somewhere where a Geo Metro could go, but my J10 is so light in the ass end it gets stuck!

    [ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: Tubro ]
    <UL TYPE=SQUARE><BR><LI>1979 J10 258/T15/D20/D44F&R NICE!<BR><LI>1979 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT/D44F/AMC20 R<BR><LI>1979 CJ5 Golden Eagle 258/T18/D20/D30F/D44R Lots of mods here<BR><LI>1947 CJ2A 134L/T90/D18/D27F/D41R<BR><LI>1963 IHC Scout 80 196/T19A/D18/D44F&R<BR><LI>1967 IHC Scout 800 266V8/T18/Factory twinstick D20!/D27F/D44R<BR><LI>1976 Scout Traveller parts rig<BR><LI>1978 Scout II 345/727/D20/D44F&R<BR></UL>
  • joe
    • Apr 28, 2000
    • 22392

    #2
    Brian, just curious but why are you so bent on using a 700 trans? The only factory gears are at most 3.54's or worse 3.07's in a 79. With the 3.54's you don't really need a overdrive and with 3.07's you don't even remotely want one.
    I can't see where all the hassles, expense of the 700, expense of another x-case or adapters, cost/hassel of adding a computer to run the trans etc is worth the "hopefull" gain of maybe a couple mpgs?
    I'm not knocking your plan here Brian, I just don't understand why you're willing to jump through all these hoops to get a 700 in it and what you'll gain from it. No matter what tranny you end up with the rig is still gonna weigh 4500 lb and still have the aerodynamics of a barn. [img]smile.gif[/img]
    joe
    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

    Comment

    • Marvin Gates
      304 AMC
      • Oct 22, 2001
      • 2406

      #3
      I have 3.07's and it is geared to high, I would love to have 3.54's. With the 3.07's when you start up a hill you have to keep giving it more gas to hold the same speed, I would get better mileage with 3.54's and have more useable power, with overdrive I doubt it would get out of its own way. I pull a snowmobile trailer (which is the lightest trailer made) and have to get a run at the hills or it just starts dropping off and I'm in everyone's way. What I'm trying to say is unless you have gobbs of horsepower you don't want any higher gearing.
      M.G.
      Regards Marv
      #1881 just for the record.
      FSJeepless for a short time.
      Need a J10 tho.

      Comment

      • Tubro
        232 I6
        • Oct 03, 2000
        • 204

        #4
        Well on the weight issue, it really only weighs in at around 3100 lbs [img]smile.gif[/img] Well heres the deal. I am running 31's, and I am going to swap in some 4.11s. The 700R4 has a lower first than the TH400 if I recall, and that way, I have the lower gears without screaming along at 80 down the interstate. If I leave it with the 3.54s I have now, I will cruise at 1800rpm at 70. I am building the motor up to pull the 3.54s in case I don't feel like re-gearing.

        Let me explain a little more. I had an 86 Mustang SVO with T5 OD. Well I swapped in some 4.10s and it ran 3000RPM at 70 and pulled like it did in 4th before, but now it was in fifth.

        On the other hand I still have my Cobra II, with 3.00s in it. It runs 3000rpm in top gear, 4th 1 to 1.

        With an overdrive I can have the best of both worlds, lower gears and still be able to cruise down the interstates. Plus why not? If I swap in another auto I am still looking at the same problems. I still need a tranny and a transfer case. I've got a TH400/QT but I want an overdrive, I know people with TH700R4s in older Chevys and they are great and the aerodynamics are just as bad.

        Plus when you give it gas to accellerate up hills or such, the OD will kick back into 3rd anyway. It is really no different than a three speed, except when you are just lightly crusing it shifts up to forth. It is all in how you set it up.

        [ January 08, 2002: Message edited by: Tubro ]
        <UL TYPE=SQUARE><BR><LI>1979 J10 258/T15/D20/D44F&R NICE!<BR><LI>1979 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT/D44F/AMC20 R<BR><LI>1979 CJ5 Golden Eagle 258/T18/D20/D30F/D44R Lots of mods here<BR><LI>1947 CJ2A 134L/T90/D18/D27F/D41R<BR><LI>1963 IHC Scout 80 196/T19A/D18/D44F&R<BR><LI>1967 IHC Scout 800 266V8/T18/Factory twinstick D20!/D27F/D44R<BR><LI>1976 Scout Traveller parts rig<BR><LI>1978 Scout II 345/727/D20/D44F&R<BR></UL>

        Comment

        • joe
          • Apr 28, 2000
          • 22392

          #5
          <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Tubro:
          Well on the weight issue, it really only weighs in at around 3100 lbs [img]smile.gif[/img] <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
          Well it sounds like ya got a plan if you're going to swap axle gears.
          You might want to check the scales you're getting you rig weighed on though.
          "Dry shipping weight" on a 79 Wag depending on standard or Ltd is 4034-4181 lbs. That's with no fuel, no driver, no tools, no passenger etc. With any combo of two of the above you're crowding 4500 lbs...a lot heavier than a Mustang
          joe
          "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

          Comment

          • Tubro
            232 I6
            • Oct 03, 2000
            • 204

            #6
            Its for my J10, There is ALOT less to one than a Wag! Thats full of gas, water, oil and my 220lb ass! I put it on a set of CAT scales, which is all I ever use, I am a truck driver after all, I use em almost daily! I'm gonna see what happens with the 3.54s, if it sucks, I'll change em out. Its no big deal really. I think I might just go with the D20, I don't wanna lot of non original crap underneath everytime I look underthere.
            <UL TYPE=SQUARE><BR><LI>1979 J10 258/T15/D20/D44F&R NICE!<BR><LI>1979 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT/D44F/AMC20 R<BR><LI>1979 CJ5 Golden Eagle 258/T18/D20/D30F/D44R Lots of mods here<BR><LI>1947 CJ2A 134L/T90/D18/D27F/D41R<BR><LI>1963 IHC Scout 80 196/T19A/D18/D44F&R<BR><LI>1967 IHC Scout 800 266V8/T18/Factory twinstick D20!/D27F/D44R<BR><LI>1976 Scout Traveller parts rig<BR><LI>1978 Scout II 345/727/D20/D44F&R<BR></UL>

            Comment

            • Marvin Gates
              304 AMC
              • Oct 22, 2001
              • 2406

              #7
              Now you are talkin, with 4.11's it would be a sweet set up, and you are right, the 700 has quite a bit lower first gear (the best of both worlds) Go for it! M.G.
              Regards Marv
              #1881 just for the record.
              FSJeepless for a short time.
              Need a J10 tho.

              Comment

              • 64Trvlr
                Traveler
                • Nov 28, 2000
                • 2925

                #8
                I'd go with a 208, that way you'll have great icy road manners. And when you wheel you'll have the 4:11's and a real low range instead of the 2:1 the 20 has.
                41 MB<br />46 CJ-2A 307,T90,D18,27,44,4:27\'S<br />64 Traveler, 350,sm465,np205,44\'s w/4:88\'s, spool, 34X9.50 TSL\'s,3\" factory lift, Line-x interior, PS, Dual Optima\'s, custom overhead console,Warn XD900i,custom bumpers<br /><a href=\"http://images.andale.com/f2/116/106/4651773/1009696569938_64trvlrconsolegrp.JPG\" target=\"_blank\">Overhead C

                STOLEN! Dana 300 Twin Stick

                Comment

                • Tubro
                  232 I6
                  • Oct 03, 2000
                  • 204

                  #9
                  What did the 208 come in that I should be looking for? I need a Pass Side drop and the stick needs to be at the front of the case, so it comes thru the floor right. Whats good/bad about it.

                  On the low, I NEVER take it wheeling. I like the low first of the 700R4 for towing. Good for getting it moving with a heavy load. Will it be in my best interest to get a 208 for the street, or just use the Dana 20? Cost is not really an issue on this, just whats best to use.

                  You say "Great ice manners" why is this? Is it FT or PT? I have no clues about NP Gear. I am Dana man myself, I know em, and I hate to change really, unless it just plain better.
                  <UL TYPE=SQUARE><BR><LI>1979 J10 258/T15/D20/D44F&R NICE!<BR><LI>1979 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT/D44F/AMC20 R<BR><LI>1979 CJ5 Golden Eagle 258/T18/D20/D30F/D44R Lots of mods here<BR><LI>1947 CJ2A 134L/T90/D18/D27F/D41R<BR><LI>1963 IHC Scout 80 196/T19A/D18/D44F&R<BR><LI>1967 IHC Scout 800 266V8/T18/Factory twinstick D20!/D27F/D44R<BR><LI>1976 Scout Traveller parts rig<BR><LI>1978 Scout II 345/727/D20/D44F&R<BR></UL>

                  Comment

                  • joe
                    • Apr 28, 2000
                    • 22392

                    #10
                    The 208's in FSJ's are drivers side drop but I think the ones in Chev's are pass side drop.
                    The 208 is a decent x-case, it's part-time like a D20 but it's chain drive. I would think what you're using your rig for it should work fine.
                    joe
                    "Don't mind me. I'm just here for the alibi"

                    Comment

                    • Tubro
                      232 I6
                      • Oct 03, 2000
                      • 204

                      #11
                      Thanks -joe and 64trvlr I'll look into it. If I can find a cheap Pass Drop one I'll use it. If not I'll just use the D20. I'll probaly just go to the junkyard, find 4X4 chebbys and see what I can find.
                      <UL TYPE=SQUARE><BR><LI>1979 J10 258/T15/D20/D44F&R NICE!<BR><LI>1979 Wagoneer 360/TH400/QT/D44F/AMC20 R<BR><LI>1979 CJ5 Golden Eagle 258/T18/D20/D30F/D44R Lots of mods here<BR><LI>1947 CJ2A 134L/T90/D18/D27F/D41R<BR><LI>1963 IHC Scout 80 196/T19A/D18/D44F&R<BR><LI>1967 IHC Scout 800 266V8/T18/Factory twinstick D20!/D27F/D44R<BR><LI>1976 Scout Traveller parts rig<BR><LI>1978 Scout II 345/727/D20/D44F&R<BR></UL>

                      Comment

                      • porchpiggy
                        350 Buick
                        • May 13, 2001
                        • 925

                        #12
                        Tubro,Chev went to the 208 in early 80, like 81 or 82. The cut off year is 87, because 88 was the first year for ind front suspension that went driver's drop. Also the sub and full size blazer stayed solid axle front (pass drop also) until 91, but I don't know if it was the 208, I think it was. Should be a lot of 208 pass drop that will go behind a 700r4 out there. The 208 is plenty strong for what your doing, and the 4low is about a 2.6 to one ratio.
                        Porchpiggy<br />\"To old and slow to run with the Bigpiggys\"<br />88 GW and 79 Suburban<br />GARY IS THE KING OF GENERAL D.

                        Comment

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