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Old 06-28-2014, 06:30 PM
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tailgate motor testing

My dash switch throws positive power to both tailgate motor wires one way ...then negative power to both wires the other way. I was under the impression it would be positive to one or the other for each direction...r...does this mean there is a short somewhere?
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:33 PM
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By the way...it does this even when I jump power at the harness directly (around the switch) so the switch is tested good....I cannot imagine why this is...maybe something along the way between the switch and the motor? I want to make sure before I teardown the tailgate
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Old 06-29-2014, 01:53 AM
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safety switch?
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Old 06-29-2014, 08:55 AM
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Need more details. How are you testing it?

When I tested mine I did it at the connector below the tail gate using a mulitmeter.

Does the tailgate work from either the front or rear switch?
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  #5  
Old 06-29-2014, 04:08 PM
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Tailgate is apart. I replaced the tailgate switch and I'm testing at the tailgate switch at the switch directly to the motor. I get positive 12v to both wires. Why isn't one a ground?? Did I put the switch in the wrong way??
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  #6  
Old 06-29-2014, 04:10 PM
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hey,does anyone here know how to.......
 
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I think men in black has done a lot of work on this ( someone repairs them) here im pretty sure its him

PM him???


steve
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  #7  
Old 06-29-2014, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnuck
safety switch?

I bypassed the safety switch....
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Old 06-29-2014, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will e
Need more details. How are you testing it?

When I tested mine I did it at the connector below the tail gate using a mulitmeter.

Does the tailgate work from either the front or rear switch?

Works at the dash...now its working down down at the tailgate...I'm thinking I swapped in another bad switch
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:27 PM
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HINT

If you've lost the ground in the circuit which you have both sides of the motor will show hot. One side Is hot & the other side is looking for ground. Remove the wires from the motor & you'll find one hot & one doing nothing power is feeding through the motor. It's not hot both sides. If you put the wire back on & ground the side that was NOT hot when disconnected the motor will run.
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If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:37 PM
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Swapped in another switch...not the problem ...still down only at tailgate switch but the dash switch works both ways. Also tailgate switch seems to get hot and snap n crackle like its being shorted out when I press the inop up
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:40 PM
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Yah the tan wire coming from the dash switch ( I assume) is smoking hot....could a bad dash switch be the problem?
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:42 PM
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Sounds like both are the rear can be dissassembled & repaired

The front switch not so much they are aged.
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80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 06-29-2014 at 06:06 PM.
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  #13  
Old 06-29-2014, 05:51 PM
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Thanks...I'm calling the tailgate switch good since there is no change after swapping three and hopefully a new dash switch will fix it...other wise I'm settling for what I got as its getting late :/
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Old 06-29-2014, 11:09 PM
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Sorry I missed your call. My other friend Brandon went to move his '82 Wagoneer we were going to put his 4.0L/AW4/242 into and found some (GGM to infinity) stole the drivetrain during the night!
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:30 PM
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Wow. Stole the drive train?? That's impressive ... Sorry to hear that.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:35 PM
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So the up direction (tan wire) at the tailgate switch shorts when it should swap the ground for power. It provides the constant ground of course... I have tested 3 switches and they all do the same thing. I would have bypassed the tailgate switch long ago but I love having it.
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  #17  
Old 07-01-2014, 04:09 PM
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My conclusion is the window switch on an 88 is not compatible with the tailgate switch on a 91...and it looks like the instrument panel isn't either ...
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by temps425
My conclusion is the window switch on an 88 is not compatible with the tailgate switch on a 91...and it looks like the instrument panel isn't either ...


Are you using the driver/passenger rear door window switch?

The front dash switch is grounded on both wires when centered
(A13 ground splice) So both wires coming from the plug are grounded.

If you use the dash switch it gets its power from 15 12VT/RD
and one wire stays ground to the A13

If you use the tailgate switch it get its power from the 22 12RD/YL
and one wire gets its ground from A13


The 12 RD/YL wire coming though the bottom of the tailgate maybe
chaffed and grounding out.










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Last edited by men in black : 07-02-2014 at 11:22 AM.
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  #19  
Old 07-02-2014, 01:59 PM
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I used a switch from the rear drivers side, rear passenger side I believe. Does drivers/pass make a difference?

Also I tested at the switch harness with 2 pieces of wire and manually threw power the way the switch was supposed to....with a ground through on one side and jumped from the red power on the other and it worked so its not a grounded wire...definitely a switch issue. also I flipped all 3 of the switches and always had the same problem. Also I took the switch harness apart and cleaned it.

Would it make a difference which window switch is used?
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  #20  
Old 07-02-2014, 10:05 PM
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Does drivers/pass make a difference? no

The rear door window switch is the best, the paddle is shorter but works.

If you ground out T2 12 TN and T1 12BR at the plug (under center of body)
can you make the window go up and down with the tailgate switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by temps425
I used a switch from the rear drivers side, rear passenger side I believe. Does drivers/pass make a difference?

Also I tested at the switch harness with 2 pieces of wire and manually threw power the way the switch was supposed to....with a ground through on one side and jumped from the red power on the other and it worked so its not a grounded wire...definitely a switch issue. also I flipped all 3 of the switches and always had the same problem. Also I took the switch harness apart and cleaned it.

Would it make a difference which window switch is used?
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1990 Grand Wagoneer.. black with sand interior..
Razor grille, Hella H4 headlights, Piaa driving, LED spider taillights, tinted windows.
Full Corinthian leather front and rear seats, custom full length center console with cup holders. 100 sf of Rattle Trap on floor.
Edelbrock intake and 2132 cam, Howell TBI, Ford Distributor Cap, TFI Ignition Coil, Desmogged
















Last edited by men in black : 07-03-2014 at 04:09 AM.
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