When i went to replace some stuff on the carb this weekend i found a hole in the fuel line running into the fuel pump. Had to take the pump off the get the line off. Should i go ahead and replace the pump while its off (top fuel line was a PITA to get off) or just put the old one back on?
Fuel pump question...
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Fuel pump question...
Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's
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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕTags: None
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No, new doesn't mean good. New just means new, hence warranties. If the one you have now is good I say run with it. If you're worried about your pump buy one and carry it for a spare, or if you decide to change to a new one now be sure to keep your old one for a spare.Corey
Current
87 GW "Big Bear"
76 J20 project "Ox"
90 GW parts rig "Velma"
77 J10 parts rig "NoMo" (as in "no more Jeeps, Corey!")
94 YJ "Coop"
Past
88 GW "Hercules" (had to sell in '08, curious who has it now)
83 Wag parts rig "Shaggy" (used to build Herc, then scrapped)
73 J4000 (had to sell due to PCS in '07)
75 Cherokee "Jerry Lee" (sold in '13 because I'm an idiot)
74 Cherokee "Dino" (used to build Jerry Lee, then scrapped)
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I'd swap a new one in there at this point, and as was said, keep the old one for a spare. I tried for a couple hours and never could get that top line loose on mine, ended up taking it to a shop, & even they had to fight it, but got it done. Lots of guys say the fuel pump is one of the easiest things to replace and maybe that's true, but I don't want to have to try again for a while.Rick
84 Custom GW
360/727/208/d44f/AMC20r/3:31
Manual windows/locks/seats
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well i do believe that im going to put the old one back on. My reason is that i want to put an electric pump on it this summer, so this one should get me through the summer. Thanks for all the input!Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's
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I replaced my mechanical one with a new one only for it to break two weeks later on a trail. It turns out the stroke of the new one was not true to specs.
I'd cap it and get an electric one. It may be 15-20 bucks more, but its a heck of a lot easier to install and you get the benefits of an electric one.
my 2 cents,
Christian1987 Grand Wagoneer, ARBs F&R, SOAed, rear disc conversion & Hydroboost, EDL performer intake and cam, Howell TBI, CS144, front & rear customer tube bumpers, Warn 12k
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If the old one works, put it back on. Sometimes, they are better than the newer rebuilt ones. buy a rebuilt one and stow it as a spare. I had one start dying out in the Nevada boonies. I didn't find it difficult to replace in the field, but the '75's don't point up like the newer ones, so getting to the lines is easy.'64 J200 thriftside
'67 J2000 townside custom cab
'68 Jeepster Commando
'69 Super Wagoneer
'75 J10
'79 Cherokee S WT
'75 Cherokee
'61 Aristocrat Lil Loafer
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Does anyone know who makes a block off plate for other engins that crosses over to the 360's?Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's
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Originally posted by j20brettDoes anyone know who makes a block off plate for other engins that crosses over to the 360's?'64 J200 thriftside
'67 J2000 townside custom cab
'68 Jeepster Commando
'69 Super Wagoneer
'75 J10
'79 Cherokee S WT
'75 Cherokee
'61 Aristocrat Lil Loafer
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I couldnt remember if it was small or big blocks that were the same. Thanks!Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's
Build Thread
Fight Crime...Shoot Back.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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