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  #21  
Old 01-26-2006, 05:26 AM
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Oh, and yes like Anti-Chrysler said it DOES matter which sc144 you get, because not all of them have the pivot bolt and lower mount separated by 180 deg!
As long as the mounts are at 12:00 and 6:00 you can re-clock it if necessary. Specify 95 deville w/ 4.9 and it will be clocked right to begin with.

[ January 26, 2006, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Walt ]
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  #22  
Old 01-26-2006, 05:42 AM
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what is this cs-144 alternator everybody is talking about?? [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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  #23  
Old 03-17-2006, 02:37 PM
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Hey Guys,
Tonight I got a wild hair and decided to check the alignment of the alt w/ respect to the crank pully.
When I put the alt on I put 2 washers behind the spacer sleeve on the pivot bolt to replace the bracket that does not fit the new alt... the one that goes from the pivot bolt, up against the head, to the back of the alt.
Well, I laid a long extension up against the crank pully to see how it would line up w/ the new alt and I found it was too far forward!
With my washers removed it was still a tiny bit forward of ideal, like ~.030, but close to ideal. So, if you have a shim behind your spacer, you might want to look at the pully allighnment!
Walt

[ March 17, 2006, 09:38 PM: Message edited by: Walt ]
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  #24  
Old 03-18-2006, 12:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Walt:
I'm planning to make a new rear support, but I'm not in a big hurry. There is a bolt hole on the back of the alt nearest the pivot bolt that I think will work well for this. I'll post some pictures when I come up with a solution.
Walt
Walt -- Did you work this out yet for a rear support?

Curious -- Bob
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  #25  
Old 03-18-2006, 01:09 AM
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i put mine in without the rear bolt support. It seems to be working fine although I do plan on 'fixing' this.

I did run into a 'problem' though. It has to do with my rig having a 2 groove crank pulley and A/C. Since I only have 2 grooves in the crank pulley I can only run 1 belt around the WP-A/C-Alt setup. This caused a problem because there doesn't seem to be enough surface area on the alternator pulley to turn the CS144. If I use a smaller belt and don't hook up the A/C then it is fine. And I am not just talking about a lot of sqeeling belt noise either. THe CS144 would NOT charge with the larger belt. The pulley got to over 200+ degree's in a matter of about 1 minute due to the friction.

Now, most people don't have this problem because they have a 3 groove crank pulley. But what you want to be cautious of is if you plan on going with 2 A/C compressors, one for OBA. To do this you typically run just one belt for the WP-A/C-ALT and then use the second A/C pulley to drive the OBA. I don't think this will work if you upgrade your alternator.
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  #26  
Old 03-18-2006, 04:46 AM
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Seems like everyone is doing this swap right now. I bought the parts, but the idiots at Autozone sold me the wrong CS130, so I haven't had time to work it all out yet.

My stock Alternator is alot bigger than the CS130, I think it's an SI12, it looks like the pics posted, but I was under the impression that those were still similar sized. Do I have an SI15?

Reading the problems with the exhaust manifold again makes me really glad that I have a 258, nothing hot on the alt's side of the engine.
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  #27  
Old 03-18-2006, 07:17 AM
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I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.
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  #28  
Old 03-18-2006, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rmorit01:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Walt:
I'm planning to make a new rear support, but I'm not in a big hurry. There is a bolt hole on the back of the alt nearest the pivot bolt that I think will work well for this. I'll post some pictures when I come up with a solution.
Walt
Walt -- Did you work this out yet for a rear support?

Curious -- Bob
</font>[/quote]No, not yet, I was doing this fitting in preparation for it.
It does seem to work fine without it, so I haven't been in a big hurry.
I was trying to decide between a shim welded to the end of the spacer with a tab welded to the spacer, or some kind of diagonal brace to accomplish both; but I have decided that since no shim is required that I'll just weld a tab to the side of the spacer to pick up on the bolt hole on the back of the alt and call it a day.
It seems to do just fine without the 3rd brace, but the jeep engineers felt the need to install one on a smaller, lighter alt, so I figure I'll try to duplicate its functionality.
I've got the motor apart again, so I have time to mess with it ...
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  #29  
Old 03-18-2006, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.
No it is not a one wire hook up. But you get an adapter cable from NAPA (EC82) for the two wire plug. The adapter converts the connector type. The two none batt wires going to the alternator are used for 1: To let the alternator know the ignition is on and 2: to sense volatage for the voltage regulator.

Depending on the year FSJ you have what you have to do with the BATT terminal wire varies. My 81 has the factory amp guage which would BURN UP if I tried to use a 140 amp alternator with it. What I did was just connect an additional wire from the batt terminal to the solinod. I left the original wire in place. My amp meter no longer registers a charge or discharge. I will have to replace it with a volt meter.

Good upgrade. Especially for those of use running 2 electric fuel pumps, stereos, hella lights, EFI and other accessories.
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  #30  
Old 03-18-2006, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
I skimmed through this and other topics on this. Is this a one wire hook up? Not sure I am following the wiring on this, swap. I am sure it is mentioned, I just have not found the details on it.
Crazy:

This link provides one of the more complete explanation and is what I used for my install. I also emailed Walt with some questions on the details of his install.

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....=034509#000024

You don't use 1-wire you use the following part number -- From Spectre's orginal post:

It was the Delco 8078, essentially. I just called NAPA and had them cross reference it to an Echlin number, which I don't have on hand and will get for you later. The 8078 is getting hard to find. Here's some of the numbers for the same thing: Delco 8078, General Motors 12102921, Pico 5331.

Joe G. Alternator Theory Pages shows a picture for this and detailed explanation of the CS144.

Here is the picture of the part --


Note, that the local advance auto had the part available without problems.

Here is the link to the alternator theory pages -- what a great reference --

http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Altern...html#Section_3
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  #31  
Old 03-18-2006, 10:14 PM
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OK Thanks. I am after a 1 wire alt.
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  #32  
Old 03-19-2006, 12:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
OK Thanks. I am after a 1 wire alt.
Are you trying to cut down on the clutter? Wiring wise, this is just as easy as a 1 wire setup. I don't know that you will find a 'bolt in' 1 wire setup as cheap as the CS130 or CS144
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  #33  
Old 03-19-2006, 02:05 AM
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1 wire alternators have problems, not least of which that they won't charge at idle until you cross a predetermined RPM point.

Also, 1 wire alternators are completely unnecessary on our rigs.
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  #34  
Old 03-19-2006, 04:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spectre:


Also, 1 wire alternators are completely unnecessary on our rigs.
Why's that?
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  #35  
Old 03-19-2006, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spectre:
1 wire alternators have problems, not least of which that they won't charge at idle until you cross a predetermined RPM point.

Also, 1 wire alternators are completely unnecessary on our rigs.
Nothing to do with what is necessary or needed............its what I want, its just that simple. Run what you want I will run what I want. I was just asking a simple question.
I have run one wire alt many many times and never a problem, bringing the revs up to excite it hardly a problem. I believe the CS-144 is being converted to 1 wire. At any rate I can get a 1 wire 180 amp Alt for around 150.00. I do not have any of the original wiring and I see no point in going with anything more than a 1 wire Alt.

I been also looking at these two.
180 Amp 1 Wire

200 Amp 1 Wire

[ March 19, 2006, 12:32 PM: Message edited by: Crazy_Jeepman ]
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  #36  
Old 03-19-2006, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Crazy_Jeepman:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Spectre:
1 wire alternators have problems, not least of which that they won't charge at idle until you cross a predetermined RPM point.

Also, 1 wire alternators are completely unnecessary on our rigs.
Nothing to do with what is necessary or needed............its what I want, its just that simple. Run what you want I will run what I want. I was just asking a simple question.
I have run one wire alt many many times and never a problem, bringing the revs up to excite it hardly a problem. I believe the CS-144 is being converted to 1 wire. At any rate I can get a 1 wire 180 amp Alt for around 150.00. I do not have any of the original wiring and I see no point in going with anything more than a 1 wire Alt.

I been also looking at these two.
180 Amp 1 Wire

200 Amp 1 Wire
</font>[/quote]That's right and I forgot you are running a caddy engine too. So yeah, without the existing wiring and a different engine I don't see any reason not to go with a 1 wire setup.
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  #37  
Old 05-28-2006, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmorit01
Walt -- Did you work this out yet for a rear support?

Curious -- Bob

The rear support is not finalized, but ready to weld. The heads are off so it will be a while before I ger the alt installed...
I just cut off the old rear bracket and notched it to fit the sleeve.

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  #38  
Old 12-19-2006, 12:56 PM
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Update on the brace pictured in the last post:
After welding it up I put everything together WITHOUT a shim behind the sleeve thinking it was not necessary. The last time I dry fit the assy was with the motor torn down and I did not notice that installing it without a shim behind the sleeve (where the original rear brace was) would cause the angle of the alt to change.
Long story short, shim the back of the sleeve ~1/8" or it will not line up correctly.
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  #39  
Old 02-24-2007, 09:54 AM
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Clearance issues

In case anyone is interested; here are a couple of pictures from the bottom showing why clocking is so important.


The notch in the case must point down or the case will hit the oil filter. The filter also limits the swing of the alt making it difficult to get the belts on. Kind of a hassle. Good excuse to change the oil when putting on new belts!
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  #40  
Old 03-06-2007, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will e
Now, most people don't have this problem because they have a 3 groove crank pulley. But what you want to be cautious of is if you plan on going with 2 A/C compressors, one for OBA. To do this you typically run just one belt for the WP-A/C-ALT and then use the second A/C pulley to drive the OBA. I don't think this will work if you upgrade your alternator.


<just a thought> I am planning on doing this upgrade and running OBA using another York. Since the OBA is "freeing" up one loop on the crank. couldn't you just us that groove to run a belt from crank/wp/alt ? Provided you could find a belt lenght that will work with the belt going crank/wp/ac/alt...

what do you think?

- Christian
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