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  #1  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:25 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
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Parting out a Gladiator?

Hey there FSJ people.

A couple of months ago, I purchased a low-mile, mostly original '67 Gladiator.

Unfortunately, things went downhill fast with the 327 motor dropping a cylinder, and TH400 trans losing the 3rd gear clutch.

A friend of mine found a Gladiator for sale with no title, an allegedly rebuilt motor and a manual trans. (And, presumably, all the bits needed such as an OEM pedal assembly & linkages)

I'm tempted to buy it and get the parts off it which I want, but before I pull the trigger, I'd need a plan for the balance of the truck.

What are some parts which I might want to keep because they're NLA?

Beyond that, is there a market for stuff like the glass, the hood, grille, bumpers, etc?

What are the most sought-after used parts on a late '60s Gladiator or Wagoneer?

Thanks in advance!

Al
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:32 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
Posts: 10,837
There is a forum here for parts selling. At FSJ Network too. You could post pictures of the truck and people could PM you with requests.

What's in demand? Tailgates, beds, front fenders, grilles, bumpers. If you are lucky, you'll find someone that wants a cab. I assume this is a rust-free California truck. You could get rid of it all if you are willing to spend the time.

The adapter and tail shaft from the TH400 has some value. A Dana 20 should sell if it's in good shape. Realize that private party parts sales typically go for bargain prices. The Rambler car guys might want your TH400... it used to be a popular conversion for those cars.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 07-23-2018 at 12:40 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:33 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
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Folks are always looking for fenders and/or flares, dash, grille and hood that fits the early grille.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:57 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
Location: California
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Cool. All good news. I've only seen the ty Craig's List photos. (Seriously. If you want fighting over who gets to give you their money... take good pictures!)

I'm not looking for "the big score", I just hate to see things go to waste.

I'll know more after the weekend, I'll try to arrange to see it then.

Just thought of another question -- are there any Jeep repair/restoration businesses in the West which might want the whole thing?
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:58 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Location: PNWet, USA
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If they are both X or Y models. 6,000/7,000 GVWR respectively I would keep the D53 rear axle. There isn't anything avail for those. Not really a demand for D53's so the entire unit has no value and they don't blow up often but if I had one in a truck and had a spare I find room to store it. For sure keep all four of the 12" brake drums. Since you won't have a title you won't be able to scrap the carcass whole at a boneyard you may as well keep the thing and slowly try to part it out. In time you'll maybe sell some of the sheet metal, grille, bumpers, gauge cluster, interior bits? Good luck but plan on having most of it around for a long time.
Oh I'd keep the AMC327 to TH400 adapter ring. Not really any great value but a shame to toss it if someone needed one.
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2018, 01:00 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2001
Location: Carson City, NV
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I may well be interested in a good chunk of it. I don't know where you're at in CA, but I'm up in Carson City, NV. If you're not super far away, I could come and get whatever you don't want. I am primarily interested in body parts, so the driveline and all the associated bits are yours. I could even bring axles to throw under it for transport.


aa
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1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2018, 05:19 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Location: San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadRacer_Al
Cool. All good news. I've only seen the ty Craig's List photos. (Seriously. If you want fighting over who gets to give you their money... take good pictures!)

I'm not looking for "the big score", I just hate to see things go to waste.

I'll know more after the weekend, I'll try to arrange to see it then.

Just thought of another question -- are there any Jeep repair/restoration businesses in the West which might want the whole thing?



If it is the white junker with the broken windshield , it has the 350 buick engine in it, missing carb, so the engine might be slightly oxidized...

Probably a good time to put a newer engine... astrovan... comes to mind...

Plenty of ideas , cherokee XJ...

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=94267


Plenty at picknpull, engine $200 + core $50, for trans... $105 + core $30
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work

Last edited by letank : 07-23-2018 at 05:26 PM.
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  #8  
Old 07-24-2018, 08:12 AM
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newtojeeps newtojeeps is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jun 28, 2006
Location: California
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Parts

I see you are in CA if close enough I could use the hood
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2018, 09:30 AM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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Just a comment - rather than change a 327/TH400 truck to a 350/manual (T-15 or T-18? it matters) it would make more sense to install a complete fuel injected Chevy drivetrain. This is done a lot to these Jeeps, and if done well, IMO it would increase the value of the truck significantly. Keep the patina and upgrade the mechanical parts. It's already an automatic, and these trucks typically came with deep axle gears like 4.88s, so you would get quite an advantage from a modern overdrive automatic.

The327 is a battleship of an engine, and worth saving if in good shape... but swapping to the 350 will replace the original 1st gen V8 with another 2nd gen V8, where modern engines are at something like 8th or 10th generation. Plus it won't be original anymore, if that counts for anything.

Really, the outlook by Jeep guys is more like the hot rod crowd than the auto preservationists. People have been putting V8s in Jeeps since the 50s. A conversion that's a real improvement would be viewed very positively: steering conversions, brake conversions, transmission conversions, the works. The Buick 350 was great in its day, but it's old fashioned compared to modern power (just like the 360, really). If the original drivetrain is kaput, you have every reason to convert to as modern a drivetrain as possible.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 07-24-2018 at 09:38 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2018, 01:21 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
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OK, great -- I'm real glad to hear that there is a market for used parts.

I could try to get a title for it, and sell it that way, but if it's impossible, the cab and chassis might just "rust away" with no trace. I'm definitely running VIN numbers before I put out any cash, though.

The seller claimed it has a 327 and a T-18.

I don't have space to store many parts, so they have to git along little doggie.

Thanks!!

PS: don't encourage me to restomod it! I don't need the help, I'm trying to resist!!
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  #11  
Old 07-24-2018, 01:36 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Location: Medford MA USA
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Pretty sure a 327 got the T-98. Maybe not ... there was a transition somewhere in there. Functionally the T-98 and T-18 are the same.

Have you driven a 4-speed pickup? Not everyone will put up with the extra effort needed to drive them. They are slow and heavy shifters, with a long throw. Gets to be a drag in stop and go traffic. These transmissions were developed with heavy duty trucks and buses in mind, and those drivers were paid to drive them, typically. Also, they whine. Very durable though, and the compound first is great for a Jeep.

If it's a 3-speed, it's on the column and likely a Borg-Warner T-85 or T-89. Strong, but not synchromesh in 1st.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2018, 10:07 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
Location: California
Posts: 38
I'm leaning towards not getting it.

I live in Oakland, and have a **really** small yard, and a truck won't fit in my garage unless I roll it in on the brake drums.

I am, at heart, a modifier of things. Hardly anything in my life stays stock.

The stuff on my truck which needs major work is the motor (needs a shade tree rebuild) and the TH400 trans.

I figure that if the motor is harder than valve seats and rings, or too expensive to fix, I'll just apply a LSx motor to the problem and get $75 for the scrap cast iron.

The TH400 has solid used value as it's a beefy as hell transmission.
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2018, 10:10 PM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2001
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 4,883
You're not terribly far from me, just under 4 hours. That'd be totally doable if you do decide to get it and part it. Timing would be pretty important for both of us, it sounds like, but I'd still be interested.

I primarily need a cab and front clip, but could work with more if that was the package.


aa
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1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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  #14  
Old 07-26-2018, 11:30 AM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
Location: California
Posts: 38
Here's the text of the ad, if you're into it:

Jeep Project, no pink slip, project only, has rebuilt engine that runs V8, T18 Manual Trans w/ model 20 transfer case, call Steve at 408-234-0030

and the link, which won't last long.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/6619645184.html

Honestly, I'd run the VIN before doing anything else. A no-pink sale always sketches me out.
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  #15  
Old 07-26-2018, 11:36 AM
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Cecil14 Cecil14 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 22, 2001
Location: Carson City, NV
Posts: 4,883
Seller is certainly proud of it. That's nowhere near an $1800 truck in my mind. Maybe $500 without a title. It's a pile of parts, as things sit right now, nothing more.


aa
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1983 J-10 - 4.6L(MPFI)/CS130D/Hydroboost/NV3550/D300/44/44/3.54/Disc-Disc/32s/42 gallon 'burb tank
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  #16  
Old 07-26-2018, 12:22 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3,755
If you are willing to pay near his high price, ask the seller if he is the registered owner... then ask for the vin , so you can check w AAA which is a lot faster than DMV. The employee may be reluctant to give you personal infos, but you can ask if the town is the town of the seller, or if his first name is Steve ... or if there are delinquant registration fees, which are dues in calif, so it may have up to $600-700 in registration fees, which I think are about the max.

What comes to mind in the case of missing title is : the truck might have been sitting for too long and the registered owner is not responding to the land or property owner to move his stuff... you do not want an angry owner to track you down...


Does the truck move on its own power????


Good luck
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Michel
74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #17  
Old 07-26-2018, 01:31 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
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Location: Medford MA USA
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I agree, for $1800 it should run, drive and have a clean title.
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Tim Reese
Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2018, 10:23 PM
RoadRacer_Al RoadRacer_Al is offline
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Join Date: Jun 18, 2018
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I was going to open negotiations @ $800. It's a nice ride out there, and as long as he didn't punch me in the face, "no" was the worst he could do.
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