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  #581  
Old 09-06-2020, 08:29 PM
78 WIDETRAC's Avatar
78 WIDETRAC 78 WIDETRAC is offline
327 Rambler
 
Join Date: Aug 19, 2003
Location: Portland, Or
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Congrats on another 2 years of driving an old beast in Cali.



Good job tracking down the problem. Very impressive. You must have the tank removal and reinstall down pretty good. I just reinstalled mine on the 79 and it was a PITA! I like the new look of your grille. I guess Its the same look as you have had forever. It just didn't stand out to me like it does in the last front end pic.

Last edited by 78 WIDETRAC : 09-07-2020 at 09:18 PM.
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  #582  
Old 09-08-2020, 09:26 PM
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bluehwy bluehwy is offline
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Join Date: Apr 28, 2014
Location: Paso Robles, CA
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Sweet! I'll see you up north; house went into escrow this weekend!
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  #583  
Old 09-11-2020, 03:10 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkilby
Very nice! Congrats Marc. Such a nice accomplishment. Me? I would have tossed that air nozzle in the trash and bought another. Lol. I guess I'm just too lazy sometimes.
Hahahaha! I know! I was going to toss it but had time to kill while working. Figured, why not try to fix it? Saved me enough money to buy 6 miles worth of gasoline!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty76
Nice story
Good Job
Quote:
Originally Posted by GWNashville
Congrats my friend!!!
Thank you, gentlemen!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Size Jeeper
Rang, that's great! That machine has sent more classic cars to an early grave. Your perseverance/hard head, surprised the $hit out of that smog Tech.
FOR SURE!!! That stupid machine also makes my rig worth that much less in CA. Honestly, it also kept me from bailing on this truck a year ago. If my truck was CA smog exempt (I could sell it with a clear conscience that it would not need smog) I would have sold it when it was backfiring.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Driftwood
That is SOOO exciting to see you conquered the smog check!

By the way, what is the terminal block for in the lower right of this pic? Is it a ground block, power block or both? I don't have it on my 79. Is it factory or aftermarket? The heat shrink looks recent.
That is a bus bar I removed from the mid 90's chevy truck that donated it's EFI harness. That is the bus bar that distributes power to various electrical circuits when the key is set to "run". I have a plastic cover for it but had to keep taking it off and ended up forgetting to put it back on. I need to find it and put it back on...
Quote:
Originally Posted by 78 WIDETRAC
Congrats on another 2 years of driving an old beast in Cali.

Good job tracking down the problem. Very impressive. You must have the tank removal and reinstall down pretty good. I just reinstalled mine on the 79 and it was a PITA! I like the new look of your grille. I guess Its the same look as you have had forever. It just didn't stand out to me like it does in the last front end pic.
I can pull my tank in 15 minutes, now (including grabbing tools out of my tool box). That's not bragging, it's whining. I do feel good knowing it is fixed (and hopefully for good).
Thanks! When I finish painting my next grill it will be even better. Still blacked out but a much better finish and the chrome surround is in much better shape.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluehwy
Sweet! I'll see you up north; house went into escrow this weekend!
LLLLUCKKKY!!!!!! Happy for you!
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  #584  
Old 09-12-2020, 06:43 PM
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rws31 rws31 is offline
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Location: Florida
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I'm glad to see you got it past smog. I'm glad I live in the land of the free. If I had to do all that work to smog it, not sure I would want to. But I probably would.

You've been busy, catching fire, painting, center caps, passing smog and a bunch more. Just caught up up on your build. If you ever fly into Orlando and need something to work on at night to keep you busy, I got plenty lol.

Looks great, especially after the front springs.
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89 GW, 454, 700R4, 241C, 411's with posi's, 9" rearend, 2500 stall, lifted, and lots more to do.
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2003 Durango 4x4
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  #585  
Old 09-26-2020, 09:10 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rws31
I'm glad to see you got it past smog. I'm glad I live in the land of the free. If I had to do all that work to smog it, not sure I would want to. But I probably would.

You've been busy, catching fire, painting, center caps, passing smog and a bunch more. Just caught up up on your build. If you ever fly into Orlando and need something to work on at night to keep you busy, I got plenty lol.

Looks great, especially after the front springs.
If I could sell this thing and keep a clear conscience, I would have to prevent going through smog. It really does suck as bad as you hear.

HAHAHAHA!! Sounds good! I may take you up on that. We have one more of our big USCG tests in Hawaii next year then the 3 after that are all in Charleston, SC. Sometimes when the ship is homeported in Charleston, we'll do our at-sea testing in JAX. If we do, and we pull in for the weekend, I'll get a rental and make my way down there.
****************************************
Felt like doing a quick, hi-impact project this weekend. Plus, I feel like I have a ton of half finished projects in the air. So I decided to sand the upper passenger side and get the upper sticker put on so it matches the driver side. I figured 4 hours of sanding, buffing, and waxing, then an hour of sticker application. Wrong.

So remember my truck has a good 3 or 4 coats of yellow paint on it. I found my first area of bondo that was well applied. I had no idea this was here and left it intact. I had sanded down to the original coat starting at the back corner and made my way up to here.

I also have a feeling my passenger door was replaced at some point becuase other than the spray paint on it, there was only one coat of yellow paint. The area under the original black stripe was cracking and starting to surface rust, too. There are no other areas on this truck with this type of paint failure. Also, the stripe was thick and chunky. When I sanded it, it came off in a brown dust, almost like rust. Weird. And there was no yellow under the stripe.

So I masked her up, primered, and painted.

Here's how I lifted the scrapers so I get under them without getting paint on them (notice the rope in there):

some 600 grit over the primer, then a couple thick coats of single stage Saxon yellow, then some 600 grit to knock down the horrendous orange peel I just put on it, 1200 to get rid of the sanding marks, 2000 to shine it up, cut, buff, polish, wax, and stickers later:

Here's the real success. Notice how close the sheen of the sticker matches the Rustoleum. This Phoenix Graphics kit is really nice and I am really happy with it.

This is success becuase this part of my truck used to look like this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
I wanted this sticker on before I move on to my flares and I want my flares done before I move on to the big black side stickers. Side stickers before the grill and bumper work. Sigh... so much to do. Lip stick on a pig!

I have another big project coming up next month as well. It's not really a good one but my work on the outside will probably stall until November'ish.
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  #586  
Old 09-27-2020, 07:26 PM
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cu4whln cu4whln is offline
350 Buick
 
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Location: Canton, Mi USA !
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That looks very nice!

Question : Your sideview mirrors.. are those aftermarket?
Brand? I am looking for better side mirrors.
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1977 "401" 'Da Chief
1979 Chero: "Madness" [Sold]
1985 CJ : Renegade -locked and loaded
2005 Unlimited Rubicon - Built
2001 XJ : Driver 2016 JK 2 door

'Da Chief here: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...ighlight=chief

Round 2- LT Swap: 'Da Chief:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=188457

"Madness" build here:
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=89280
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  #587  
Old 09-27-2020, 08:24 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Driver side is a factory remote mirror, passenger side is a really crappy cheapie from McParts.

Our factory Driver side remote mirrors are the same as a late 60s chevelle or Camaro. My original driver mirror was broken and I bought one from a 68 Chevelle On eBay and they were totally identical. Then I just found an after market passenger side mirror that looked the same as the Stock 68 Chevelle passenger mirror. Or maybe it was 68 Camaro? Either way, I just searched for 68 Chevrolet remote mirror.
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  #588  
Old 09-30-2020, 08:41 PM
Rusty76 Rusty76 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 15, 2018
Location: Cochrane
Posts: 296
Looks great. I knew we talked about it previously but having a SD sticker on your Jeep is mega cool !
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  #589  
Old 10-11-2020, 09:54 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty76
Looks great. I knew we talked about it previously but having a SD sticker on your Jeep is mega cool !
Thanks! Some times when I cruise it I feel like a total has-been! LOL!
********************************
I mentioned a big project coming up that is not that fun in an earlier post:


WHHHHY????? Because I still do not have sufficient oil pressure. Something is wrong inside and I need to fix it. If I had a 360 I would drive it til it threw a rod, then put a hemi in it but this 401 crank/block is too valuable and damaging it has me scared. I hope to have it back on the road well before Thanksgiving, maybe even by the end of this month. I am going to do the most of my posting on theamcforum.
theamcforum thread
I pulled the engine on Saturday. Today I just stripped the front drive and intake off. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to finish inspection and find out what needs to be done. I am hoping it is something as easy as swapping in some bearings that are .001 undersize or a bad lifter but we'll see.

Other than the low oil pressure, it has been running GREAT! starts right up cold or hot, no hesitation, etc. The belt hasn't come off or squealed in a few thousand miles, either. I only have one weeping oil leak on it and that will get fixed while it is apart, too. I will also put my headers back on when it goes back in.

Fingers crossed it's something cheap and easy....
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  #590  
Old 10-11-2020, 10:43 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
350 Buick
 
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Location: Lompoc and Sunland, CA
Posts: 1,494
Did you check the bearing clearances when you were building it? If you covered this earlier I hope you don't mind my asking.

Think this through carefully before diving in. I mean the order of investigation, not whether to proceed or not. You don't want to destroy evidence.
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Last edited by SJTD : 10-11-2020 at 10:49 PM.
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  #591  
Old 10-12-2020, 08:04 AM
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SOLSAKS SOLSAKS is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 25, 2016
Location: Benson. NC
Posts: 1,359
rang,

you got Any idea why your photos will not show for me any longer,....

I miss seeing the updates,...

and don't want to hassle you to email them to me each time,....

glad you got some victories on the Cherokee....

dave in NC
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1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
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  #592  
Old 10-12-2020, 03:33 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Did you check the bearing clearances when you were building it? If you covered this earlier I hope you don't mind my asking.

Think this through carefully before diving in. I mean the order of investigation, not whether to proceed or not. You don't want to destroy evidence.
My machinist measured. Mains are .0023 plus or minus .0003 and rods were .0026. I am going to verify that when I get there. I don't mind you asking at all. This thread is now 14 pages long.

Yep, going through step by step, taking lots of pictures. Most will be posted on theamcforum but some will show up here, too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SOLSAKS
rang,

you got Any idea why your photos will not show for me any longer,....

I miss seeing the updates,...

and don't want to hassle you to email them to me each time,....

glad you got some victories on the Cherokee....

dave in NC
Hm. I don't, Dave. Weird. I see them on my personal laptop, work laptop, and my phone. I use Chrome on both laptops and safari on my phone.
*******************************************
Today I inspected all the valve train. No smoking guns. Also inspected the pump. There were some "issues" there but no enough to account for all the lost pressure. I am scared to open the bottom end now. Posting up on theamcforum. So far I have found a minor "issue" with my galley plugs and a moderate "issue" with my pump. I think I am about 1/3 done with my inspection. Tomorrow I inspect the cam and crank/rods.
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  #593  
Old 10-12-2020, 06:43 PM
Rusty76 Rusty76 is offline
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Join Date: Jul 15, 2018
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Maybe not fun put still cool pulling out an engine and figuring stuff out.
Good luck on the low oil pressure and keep us posted on the fix.
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  #594  
Old 10-12-2020, 08:44 PM
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asphaltrockdweller asphaltrockdweller is offline
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Posts: 1,179
Dang Rang!
You need to install a chain motor from your ceiling with all the in and out on that engine!
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Last edited by asphaltrockdweller : 10-12-2020 at 09:02 PM.
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  #595  
Old 10-12-2020, 09:17 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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14 pages long...heh heh heh... You are just getting started! Well I too am patiently waiting on the oil pressure solution. The door paint work sure looks great. They never really seem to be done it seems. Good to catch up here.
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1969 1414X Wag,
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  #596  
Old 10-12-2020, 09:34 PM
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levelhead levelhead is offline
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Did you check oil pump gear to end plate clearance ? Should be close to zero.
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  #597  
Old 10-13-2020, 06:39 AM
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SC/397 SC/397 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levelhead
Did you check oil pump gear to end plate clearance ? Should be close to zero.




Rang-a-stang, is that the timing cover that I detailed for you?

If it is, it should be near zero with a gasket. When you tear it down, lay a straight edge across the oil pump gears and see if they stick above or, below the housing.
Check it like this.
IMG_4049 by Rick Jones, on Flickr



Yes, .0023" bearing clearance is a little too much for a street engine but not horrible. It should be no more than .002" and .0015" would be more desirable.
I don't think you can get .001' under bearings for AMC engines any more but a good machinist could resize the rods and line hone the mains to get the clearances that you want. The key thing is the machinist has to measure the bearing clearance as they are torqued in the bearing housings.
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Last edited by SC/397 : 10-13-2020 at 07:41 AM.
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  #598  
Old 10-13-2020, 01:44 PM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty76
Maybe not fun put still cool pulling out an engine and figuring stuff out.
Good luck on the low oil pressure and keep us posted on the fix.
Yeah, would be more fun if it didn't cost $100 in gaskets, fluids, kitty litter, and other crap every time I had to do this.
Thanks! I can use all the luck I can get.
Quote:
Originally Posted by asphaltrockdweller
Dang Rang!
You need to install a chain motor from your ceiling with all the in and out on that engine!
Way to much truth there! LOL!! Took me less than 2 hours from pulling the truck in the garage until the engine was hanging up there. I have too much experience with this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
14 pages long...heh heh heh... You are just getting started! Well I too am patiently waiting on the oil pressure solution. The door paint work sure looks great. They never really seem to be done it seems. Good to catch up here.
I always appreciate seeing you on here, too, Kaiserjeeps. Get us some M715 pics posted!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by levelhead
Did you check oil pump gear to end plate clearance ? Should be close to zero.
Yep. More below.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SC/397
Rang-a-stang, is that the timing cover that I detailed for you?

If it is, it should be near zero with a gasket. When you tear it down, lay a straight edge across the oil pump gears and see if they stick above or, below the housing.
Check it like this.
[picture]
Yes, .0023" bearing clearance is a little too much for a street engine but not horrible. It should be no more than .002" and .0015" would be more desirable.
I don't think you can get .001' under bearings for AMC engines any more but a good machinist could resize the rods and line hone the mains to get the clearances that you want. The key thing is the machinist has to measure the bearing clearance as they are torqued in the bearing housings.
It is the same one! On inspection of the gears, I can see I had a contaminate go through the pump. I have significant scratches and pock marks on the cover and the gears (pictures on theamcforum thread here: click here). I am REALLY hoping my oil filter(s) caught whatever it was that damaged the gears and cover but won't know until I crack open my mains and rods later today.

I did plasti-gauge the pump gears and they are at .001 without a gasket (again, pics on theamcforum thread). It was hard to read the plastigauge because of the scratches on the cover.

I have seen a couple threads on theamcforum where folks used Pontiac rod bearings to get a .001 undersize. If I need to, I will investigate further. There is another member over there that says he has a set of .001 under size mains but I am not sure if he is willing to sell.

I figure I must have a couple problems because if it was just the clearances, my pressure would be low but not this low. So I am hoping it is the pump, the clearances, and 2 oil galley plugs that were barely leaking.
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  #599  
Old 10-13-2020, 02:51 PM
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Plastigage is not a good way to check the end clearance.

Lay a straight edge across and us a feeler gauge like I show in the picture.
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  #600  
Old 10-13-2020, 04:45 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC/397
Plastigage is not a good way to check the end clearance.

Lay a straight edge across and us a feeler gauge like I show in the picture.
rgr, will do. Probably while my crank and block are at the machinist.
*******************************
My bottom end is trashed. I am pretty sure I found where my oil pressure was going: main bearings have heavy gouges in them. More pictures at theamcforum but in summary all of my mains basically look like this:

Whatever went through my pump, went through my mains, too. This is gonna hurt (the wife beating me, not the cost....although the cost is gonna hurt too).
Tomorrow I will pull the heads off, Pull the oil pressure sensor, the motor mounts and flexplate. I hope I can find a decent machine shop.

Maybe my assembly lube was contaminated, maybe something got into my engine when I was adjusting rockers, maybe I spilled something into the oil pan when I was changing out the timing cover or maybe I just missed cleaning something when I was doing assembly? I don't know, but this sucks.
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