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  #21  
Old 12-30-2009, 08:58 PM
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Here are some photos guys....






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  #22  
Old 12-30-2009, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Stewart
Here are the pics, I saved them.
Beat me to it!
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ALASKA... "Land of the Individual and Other Endangered Species"
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  #23  
Old 12-30-2009, 09:12 PM
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El_Diablo El_Diablo is offline
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what are you doing to seal the interior?
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  #24  
Old 12-30-2009, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El_Diablo
what are you doing to seal the interior?
This was on an AMC Eagle I swaped a 229 into to get low range. It was bolted to a T-5. I used the twin stick boot that came with the kit with a heavy piece of rubber under that.
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66 Amphicar Yea it's a boat too!
08 German Sheperd
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19XX Sexy Red Head loaded with all the options!

ALASKA... "Land of the Individual and Other Endangered Species"
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  #25  
Old 12-31-2009, 06:36 PM
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billyj7175 billyj7175 is offline
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Yes, very nicely done.
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  #26  
Old 01-24-2011, 12:03 AM
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I know this is an old thread but I'd like to get some info on switching my 229 to twin stick. Does the vac system for switching to 4wd just use vacumn to provide a mechanical function that could otherwise be done with levers? Or is there some kind of voodoo or black magic involved with the vac switch?

AKAMC I shot ya a pm.

If there's anyone else that's done it shoot me a PM I'd like to hear how easy or how much of a PITA it is.

Thanks
Steve
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  #27  
Old 01-24-2011, 08:44 AM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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That is correct. the vacuum only switches from 2WD to 4WD by pushing/pulling on a rod. I had thought of doing this originally to my 87, but my vacuum actuator always worked excellent. I am glad to see my idea brought to life by someone.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandWag&Prix
Actually, now that I think about it, that could be either awesome or really terrible.


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  #28  
Old 01-24-2011, 09:18 AM
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SWEET!!!


My build is 88 GW running gear with a 52 willys wagon body sitting on it so the twin stick would look better and the flag shifter for 4hi or 4lo has got to go. That's good news. Just glad there's no gypsy magic with the vacuum.

Thanks for the idea.
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  #29  
Old 01-24-2011, 03:37 PM
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leostevo leostevo is offline
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I was thinking of using a morse cable to operate the linkage. Does anyone have an idea how much force is required to make the switch? Obviously if it takes 35lbs, then it may not be ideal to depend on an 1/16" wire to make the switch. I don't know what the maximum workload for a morse cable typically is.

Fabbing a morse cable would be much easier than cutting through the floor. Although I would be thrilled to just drop the jeep off and have this twin stick setup magically completed for $50-$100; you know. . . in a perfect world.

-Steve
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  #30  
Old 01-29-2011, 12:14 PM
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I hope a t-case guru can help a brotha out.

There are 2 bolts that hold the bracket for the vacuum diaphram (?) the round thing that move the rod into and out of 4wd and the 4 hi and low lever............ The nuts on those are rusted, bad, and the nut stays and it just unthreads it out of the t-case. When I noticed a void in the threads it made me a little nervous that there are threads on the other side holding something together inside the t-case.

If I have to, when I take the body off the frame I can just hit it with a cutoff wheel. Here's some pics.

Thanks in advance



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  #31  
Old 01-29-2011, 12:26 PM
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They don't hold anything together besides the obvious. Pull them out and replace them with bolts, or just thread them back in tight if you can't get the nuts off.
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  #32  
Old 01-29-2011, 01:19 PM
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SWEET!! Thanks.
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  #33  
Old 01-29-2011, 05:58 PM
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This is what I would call quality Necro posting. You might have a business waiting to mass produce those gorgeous sticks! Seriously.
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  #34  
Old 01-29-2011, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserMan
They don't hold anything together besides the obvious. Pull them out and replace them with bolts, or just thread them back in tight if you can't get the nuts off.

got 'em out no problem. The only thing to note is that they must be a "machined" thread. Not sure if that's the right term but the threads don't start at the end they have a taper then the threads start. No biggie I'll just run to Tacoma Screw on monday when they open and get the right ones.

Thanks again for the help.
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