The Old Girl is coming along..

[Gambler68]

Happy to report my stock driveshaft lines right up..expected a bigger yoke on the D60 but it looks like it'll bolt up. If not, spicer makes a cheater ujoint for 38 bux.

[firecaptain13]

Make sure its the right u-bolt with no slop in the ends. Not a good lesson to learn on the trail

[Gambler68]

Make sure its the right u-bolt with no slop in the ends. Not a good lesson to learn on the trail

yeah I just fit it in there, haven't bolted yet. Was worried I'd have to shorten the DS but it's dang perfect lengthwise.

[red mistress]

AMC cars & Ford Mustang

AMC cars & Ford Mustang also used the Eaton pump.

1500 PSI is highest factory Eaton PS pump that I have found.

[jode]

Phat rig

That black thing on the front is a section of 75 Cherokee WT rear frame that I made fit on there as sort of a bumper. Plans are for a big ole FU piece of C channel eventually.

Just my $.02
C-channel for bumpers sucks. This is coming from someone who used to own one. Back before I had really ever though about C-channel, I thought it would make for a cheap, quick bumper, but the facts are otherwise. What they make for is cheap, heavy, weak bumpers. In my mind, heavy and weak are a bad combo.
Comparatively speaking, a section of 2X4 steel would be virtually the same price, untold factors stronger, and lighter. The thing about C-channel that I hadn't realized in my youth is that the "wall thickness" is not even across the channel. The metal is thick in the corners and thin on the edges. I guess that is fine and all, but it makes it heavy for the gauge you are useing and in order to get something that (in my opinion) would be of suitable strength for a bumper, you would have to go with something that would be nearly 1/4" thick at the thin part. That would mean the thick part would be getting closer to nearly 1/2" thick. I know there are those who may disagree, but I just think a piece of 2X4 tubing with maybe a wall thickness of 3/16" would be stronger, more aesthetically pleasing, and lighter. Once you weld some "caps" over the ends of it, and especially if you put a little angle on the ends, it can come out looking like a fairly decent bumper. The labor is about the same, the materials cost almost the same and the result is way better.

Can you tell yet that I am opposed to C-channel bumpers?

/rant - you may proceed

[COLOFIREMAN]

Any updates Ryan??

[Gambler68]

Nope...need to buy the 315 dollar disc brake kit from the dude on Pirate, and another 200 for the front steering stuff. " Rear drum on the D60 is frozen up so the old girl is sitting under the tree for the winter I guess.

[Gambler68]

not really an update, just trying to get me "Finish" list down in the thread, since I'm tired of re-doing it in my head. Feel free to comment.

In matter of Priority to Purchase:
D60 rear disc kit from pirate guy: 315 shipped BOUGHT 11/26
20' of brakeline (I have plenty of old pieces around but may as well plumb new, I have a flare tool, just need a bender)
conversion cheater Ujoint D44 yoke on shaft, D60 yoke on the D60. need spicer part number (thinks thats the 1330->1350 one?
1974 HD44 axle shaft ujoints (need Spicer part #)
____ HD44 rebuild kit? (seals and bearings)
3/4 ton discs, pads, and calipers for front
DOM tie rod and steering linkage kit (still have to go through my taps and see if I have the right one to do myself, just get TREs and DOM, or may have to get kit from Parts Mike
(4) 37" humvee tires (500 shipped) or mount the 35" KM2s I have already on a set of 8 lug 16" rims (do not have). Will need to replace one Km2.
4 cheap shocks. I don't care about shocks.
2 extended shock towers..either the Ford ones, or fab some up from rectangle stock.
Pertronix Ignition system (replaces points and adds a hot coil) Bought. looks very cool
Work to do:
finish wiring, 90% done
hang gas tank and finish plumbing
procure tail lights
door panels
hitch bumper for the rear
mount or incorporate winch basket into a front bumper
adjust clutch linkage
hope the cobbled Master Cylinder and power booster is good. If not, replace with a new one. Ideally, replace Master Cylinder with one for Disc/Disc, need part number.
pick one of the 5 hoods I have laying around and sand/paint. That blue one is going back on Sundog. The one on sundog with the cool vent holes is getting retired..I messed it up cutting out the side lip and it curled up and looks fugly.

And when it's all mechanically done, get a HF sprayer, a gallon of Rustoleum Gloss Almond, a little thinner, rent a compressor for a day and drop a final coat on the truck, and sit it out in the summer sun to dry

A bit daunting, but not bad, come a long way since the spring of 2009.

Other plans:
cut out the bashed rockers and replace with square or rectangle tube (whatever fills up the space).
add 2x2" .125 wall square tube exo-frame to sides of bed for strength and mounting points for fenders, etc. Maybe use 2x4 verticals front back and middle for 'stake' pockets. It would tie in with the M715 'theme' I'm going for (mixing in M715 bits and styling to make a 'civvy' Gladiator version of that truck)

[Josh D]

I sure do like the look of the civy cab on the M715. And with a thriftside box, it'll definetely be one of a kind!

[Tad]

conversion cheater Ujoint D44 yoke on shaft, D60 yoke on the D60. need spicer part number (thinks thats the 1330->1350 one?

Take and review your measurements carefully, my front 60 actually came with a 1310 yoke. so I run a 1310/1350 joint there I have that part number).

Ideally, replace Master Cylinder with one for Disc/Disc, need part number.

I may have this 'Vette MC here for a disc/disc setup, I'll check and take it up to the F&K run if I do.

mount or incorporate winch basket into a front bumper

I don't think you sent me the number's on the brackets you need, get that done and they can travel also.

[FSJK]

1310-1350 is a Spicer 5-460x (if that's what joint you need)

[Gambler68]

I sure do like the look of the civy cab on the M715. And with a thriftside box, it'll definetely be one of a kind!

Breakdown:
1968 Frame and drivetrain. 327/t18/d20
1964 Cab and long Thriftside bed
M715 fenders

Had I the chance, I would have put a M715 cab on it in a heartbeat. I've been eyeballing this one wondering what a sawzall and a M715 windshield/door swap would end up like..

Tad, will do. A proper MC would rock too! I'll throw a caliper on the yoke and see what I come up with then.

[Gambler68]

Another thing I want to do is use some sort of square or rectangle metal stock and make a ladder type exo-frame on the thriftside sides. Originally I was going to just put 3/4" plywood on the inside, but doing that negates putting a 4x8 sheet flat in there. The frame would give me nice mounting points for wheel flares (gotta cover the meats) and skirting for the frame/bed gap. It'd be simple enough to measure and draw up and have done, or tack weld it together myself and have it welded up, them bolt/tack on the bed.

[Josh D]

Breakdown:
1968 Frame and drivetrain. 327/t18/d20
1964 Cab and long Thriftside bed
M715 fenders

Had I the chance, I would have put a M715 cab on it in a heartbeat. I've been eyeballing this one wondering what a sawzall and a M715 windshield/door swap would end up like..

I saw an M715 with a civy cab in a magazine once in full olive drab. It was the best looking M715 I'd seen

[Gambler68]

I saw an M715 with a civy cab in a magazine once in full olive drab. It was the best looking M715 I'd seen

I would have liked a M715 bed, but they are extremely heavy and I think even longer than my 8' bed. This one would look almost like a faux one with the exterior frame I am planning, and the fenders catch the eye. For rear flared fenders, I am thinking angled flat diamondplate, or steel like this: /---\, like the original Thriftwide (willys) fenders but longer and wider and much thicker. Depends on what I can find locally for metal..too expensive new and steel doesn't care if it's been owned before or not And some flat plate stock to bolt on and cover the frame gap..not the C-channel box style the original skirting was.