that's quite a long list of things to do for your build. How's it going?
Twister Jeep Build
Collapse
X
-
Right now I am daily driving it to sort out what else is needed to make her mechanically sound. Went around to a few paint places and it looks like it is going to cost abound $3k if I do all the body work and priming, $5k if they do the bodywork and priming/painting.
So I may hold off on the color change, or maybe look into the rustoleum paint jobs I see some of the J-truck guys do.
I got the A/C working....well sorta. It blows cool during the morning hours, but in the heat of the afternoon it struggles. I may look into replacing the entire system with new components.
Clutch will need to be changed in the near future, but I will most likely be going to a TF727 and matching t-case if I can find one in good order.
I have parts now to do power locks and windows, so that will probably be next. I am also looking into a complete rewire of the vehicle as the previous owners hacked the crap out of it.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by FleetFoxany update on your project?
Design:
Current Garage:
The ceilings needed the most work; the drywall was literally falling down. We tossed around the idea of just ripping everything down and replacing it, but that would have been too costly and take up more time. We ended up deciding on running .5x2 wood across the seams to lift the drywall back up. I sealed all the edges with caulking, textured the whole thing, and then painted it. What started as a cheap way to fix it, turned in to something fancy. Took me the better part of 3 days to put up the wood, seal it, texture it, and paint it.
Before:
After:
This is the garage before we put everything back in. We re-epoxied the floors, and went with a lighter grey for the walls. The oneLast edited by nstevic01; 01-24-2020, 06:32 AM.
Comment
-
-
Your garage looks awesome! Are you a Navy veteran? The colors look like Haze Grey and deck grey. Your bike is legit!!! I love the tires and bare metal tank! Your work sound like a typical job on these: Pull it up to find/fix the oil leak, end up replacing the clutch, fixing exhaust leaks and rebuilding an axle. Oh, then the oil leak comes back.Chuck McTruck 71 J4000
(Chuck McTruck Build Thread)
79 Cherokee Chief (SOLD, goodbye old buddy)
(Cherokee Build Thread)
11 Nissan Pathfinder Silver Edition 4x4
09 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring
00 Baby Cherokee
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by rang-a-stangYour garage looks awesome! Are you a Navy veteran? The colors look like Haze Grey and deck grey. Your bike is legit!!! I love the tires and bare metal tank! Your work sound like a typical job on these: Pull it up to find/fix the oil leak, end up replacing the clutch, fixing exhaust leaks and rebuilding an axle. Oh, then the oil leak comes back.
Not a vet sir, just liked the color combo.
Comment
-
-
I REALLY need to work on providing more regular updates. A lot has happened since the last one. So picking up right where we left off:
Got the transmission and transfer case pulled off. Found out what that awful noise was when pushing in the clutch. Looks like the input shaft sleeve was rubbing on something creating a lip, one that prevented the throw out bearing from coming off. I ended up having to grind it down to change it out.
Video here -> https://photos.app.goo.gl/hRegMnNrA8vBnL2z9
Clutch and pressure plate out. The heat markings are mesmerizing.
Pilot bushing is completely effed.
New parts in. Went with the cheapest set at Autozone, about $100, and bought a new flywheel from Amazon. All in, about $250 in parts. I cheaped out since I will be converting this to an automatic, I only needed it to last about 4 months.
After that, she ran great.
THEN, she starts running a little hotLast edited by nstevic01; 03-20-2019, 04:48 AM.
Comment
-
-
…at least according to the gauge. Before this the gauge didn’t work, but I narrowed it down to a wiring issue and got it up and running. The needle tended to live right in this area, occasionally creeping into the red. Either the sender is bad, the ground is bad, or the gauge is bad.
I testing the resistance at the sending unit and everything seemed to be ok. It did hesitate a bit when the gauge read hot, but everything was within spec. I had read somewhere if the timing was off, it could cause the same symptoms. So I got out the trusty timing light and got to work….until that is, Jo gets hungry and decides to eat my timing light…
So reluctantly I bought another one and was a little more cautious with the routing of the wires. Timing was off by a couple of degrees. Once that was done, I got my newly acquired muscle grill installed! Took me the better part of a year and parts from 3 grills to get the mustache, chrome muscle combo I needed.
Next up was tackling the install of the correct mirrors. I had bought these about a year ago and have been waiting for the right time to install them. One of my friends had picked up a rivnut tool awhile back and I was fascinated by it. So I ordered one of my own off of Amazon thinking it would be perfect to install the mirrors with. $60 later and it was at my door.
Took off the old mirrors, masked off my holes, drilled them out, and installed the nuts with some silicone. Came out pretty good.
Things were good for a while, then about 2 weeks ago, disaster struck. I was driving home from work and it just dies while driving. I had to push it into a gas station. I was getting no spark at all. So I had to call my tow service through Hagerty and about an hour later, I was on my way home.
I dug into it the next day after work. Not knowing exactly where I was going to start, I figured the ignition module would be the best place to begin. Organized rats nest was the best description of this setup. While acceptable, the previous owner had installed the MSD 6A piggybacked off the stock ignition module’s tach output. It works, but if the stock unit fails, the whole thing fails.
Ewe…
So I took a look at the distributor while I was in there. Something tells me this reluctor is not supposed to be digging in to the pickup…
Got all of the ignition parts replaced, new reluctor, cap, rotor, pickup, and plugs. I was finally able to get it to fire up, but the starting was very laborious. Eventually my solenoid started glowing red hot and started sparking. I think its time to replace all of the battery, starter, and solenoid wires.
Fired right up….then it died. Ugh… the brand new reluctor split in half. Most likely due to a poor casting.
Once I got that squared away I started work on the roll bar. There needed to be a tab welded on for the cb antenna. I just happened to have something that would work perfectly in my scrap box.
Added a few coats of paint.
Got the bar mounted up and installed the 6x9 and 4x6 lights.
So that’s it for now!Last edited by nstevic01; 03-20-2019, 04:48 AM.
Comment
-
-
How about resizing your pichers? Really hard to see what you're up to.Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
Comment
-
-
nice j-10
IT HAS A GREAT STANCE
you have done some nice work
enjoyed your photos and posts.
keep us informed on next steps
dve in NCSOLSAKS - dave
1976 J-10 HONCHO Fleetside
1982 J-10 Fleetside
1988 grand wagoneer
2004 RUBICON jeep
Benson, NC
Comment
-
Comment