aftermarket cam/lifters install question

[87FSJ]

Hello everyone,

Well the fun has begun! I started to tear the Wagoneer down to replace old parts with some new better parts. It all started with just wanting to do an intake carb swap. Now I'm contemplating a new cam and lifters. I figured while replacing the water pump, timing chain, fuel pump, oil pump rebuild, intake and cam why not do the cam as well. I was thinkin about using this
http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Edl-2132. My question is, can you install this cam and lifters without having to do anything with the push rods or rockers? I read where it says that these rockers are not adjustable. Just torque them down and that's it. Didn't see where it said anything after an aftermarket cam was installed. Found some real good threads on people installing new water pump and timing chain and there tricks that made it a little easier. Haven't found much stating wether or not you have to address any on the valve train. Any pointers or experiences with this would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks all!

[austinaubinoe]

HEY! Here is my long, drawn out thread from 2 summers ago. Keep in mind I had no idea what I was doing! Was a fun project.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=157066

Timing chain is a good idea because you will probably break some bolts in the timing cover. Best trick I learned was to heat the steel bolts really hot with a MAP torch and then cool them back down with PB blaster. Do this a couple times and then try to work the bolt back and forth to loosen it from the aluminum.

[87FSJ]

Yeah, thanks! that's the one thread I found, has some good pointers especially with the pics! I got water pump off and the timing cover bolts loose but have to pick up a puller for the balancer. I was just a little unsure if once I installed the cam can I just torque the rockers down?

[REDONE]

Bridged rockers are "torque and forget" because the pivots make direct contact with the rocker bolt bosses. To "adjust" bridged rockers you have to shave the bottom of the pivots or shim them. If you have one piece bridges you have to shave or shim the intake and exhaust together, compromising between the two, with three piece bridges you have a little more lee way.

[jdaniel83]

Last Spring I did the cam/lifters swap with pretty much the exact same cam that you are looking at. There's no need to do anything to the springs, pushrods, etc unless you have some bent pushrods in which they will need to be replaced. All you need to do is torque the rocker bolts down to spec (19 ft/lbs. if memory serves me correctly) in stages and the valves are set.

[joe]

Hello everyone,

Well the fun has begun! I started to tear the Wagoneer down to replace old parts with some new better parts. It all started with just wanting to do an intake carb swap. Now I'm contemplating a new cam and lifters.

How far "torn down" is it? How many miles on the motor?
IMHO if it's a high miles motor (100,000+) and you want to swap cams you'll need to install new cam bearings. That will require the motor to be out of the car.

[87FSJ]

Thanks for the replays fellas! Jdaniel83, exactly what I was looking for. I also spoke with edelbrock when I ordered the cam and lifters. Shouldn't have any issues installing and bolt everything back down! Joe, my jeep has about 115,000 on it and pulling the motor right now is not much of an option. Gonna roll the dice and hope that there is no issues with cam bearings or anything related for that matter. Working out doors and in south jersey this time a year starts to drop in temp.

[rustywag]

Should be no reason to have to replace the cam bearings if the engine carried decent oil pressure. I have never heard of anyone wearing out cam bearings in 30+ years of hot rodding.

[Walt]

Thanks for the replays fellas! Jdaniel83, exactly what I was looking for. I also spoke with edelbrock when I ordered the cam and lifters. Shouldn't have any issues installing and bolt everything back down! Joe, my jeep has about 115,000 on it and pulling the motor right now is not much of an option. Gonna roll the dice and hope that there is no issues with cam bearings or anything related for that matter. Working out doors and in south jersey this time a year starts to drop in temp.

Like REDONE said, they're only non-adjustable in the sense that no adjustment is provided, there's nothing magic about these engine that makes the valvetrain self-optimizing. And just because it all fit together great when it left the factory doesn't mean it will be ideal after swapping some fundamental components. If the head has been milled, different cam, valves and/or seats changed or other changes, the geometry is not necessarily stock and just bolting everything back down may quickly bring sadness.
One example, my engine had been worked on in the past and the pushrods were not standard length to compensate.
Do yourself a favor and get the shim kit, then check the setup before you just bolt it together.