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Old 09-24-2019, 07:34 AM
john@cooksflips john@cooksflips is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 06, 2018
Location: south carolina
Posts: 3
Sticking Starter

Hello All,
Thank you for taking the time to read this post. I have a 74 j10 with th400, amc 360 and starter will not stop sticking.
recently i had my quadratrac and th400 rebuilt and i have just reinstalled everything and this is when the issue with the sticking starter began. I have replaced ignition switch, replaced blinker switch in column, replaced starter, replaced the solenoid two different times, and have fully exposed the wiring harness and i can not find the issue. I am back to thinking i possibly should try another solenoid.
When the starter sticks I must pull the battery connection to kill the motor. The wiring harness apears to be original to me and this is a fairly unmolested truck. Never lifted, very few dents, not covered in years of mud. The wires apear to be in pretty decent shape. Help !!!
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  #2  
Old 09-24-2019, 08:04 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
out of order
 
Join Date: Jun 08, 2005
Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
Posts: 9,450
aftermarket parts especially electrical can be very poor quality these days.
solenoids seem especially problematic.
i have seen threads on forum where guys went through 3 new ones to get a good one.
have seen several threads on here where starter keeps going as well.

There are good aftermarket solenoids available but they're more $$.
Grabbing good OEM one from old Ford @ boneyard is also better than cheapnese crap sold today.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
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  #3  
Old 09-24-2019, 11:08 AM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
Posts: 22,345
+1 to what Tony said.
Electric stuff today is a real crap shoot from "any" of the chain store parts houses. I'm one of those folks Tony mentioned where it took 3 trips to get a working starter solenoid/relay for a 72 starter. Your best bet if you have one nearby is buy the part from an auto-electric shop. Yeah more expensive but it'll work. For solenoid/relays specifically for an AMC/Ford type starter is the boneyard. Rather than buying from a chain store you're better off get an OEM one from an old 60'S era Ford.
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Old 09-24-2019, 12:05 PM
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tgreese tgreese is offline
 
Join Date: May 29, 2003
Location: Medford MA USA
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For the solenoid, I would go with the Standard Blue Streak part SS581X. Standard only makes the regular line part currently the SS581, but you can find the high-end Blue Streak part as NOS if you look around.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2019, 03:06 PM
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letank letank is offline
AMC 4 OH! 1
 
Join Date: Jun 03, 2002
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 3,852
a slight tap on the starter casing w a 3lb hammer... should unlock the sticky starter ...

as said above parts are a gamble nowadays...
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2019, 02:34 PM
john@cooksflips john@cooksflips is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: May 06, 2018
Location: south carolina
Posts: 3
Hello All,
I want to update yall on this issue in case it ever arises for yall. The starter is still sticking after 3 different solenoids, new ignition switch, and a new starter. I have even replaced the positive and negative wires coming from the battery as well as the engine ground wires. I am attempting to start the truck by manually engaging the ignition switch with a screwdriver as i have the column taken apart because I can not get the key switch out of the column. When i push the ignition switch forward the starter engages, engine cranks up, but when I pull the ignition switch back into the run position the starter will not disengage.
Because i can not get the key cylinder out of the column i want to get this problem figured out before I a take the column completely out of the truck or rewire a new key switch on the dash.
So i guess my real question is, should I be able to manually engage the ignition switch without he plunger in it, or cold that be the issue ?
The biggest of thanks to anyone that can help a desperate man.
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  #7  
Old 10-10-2019, 04:31 AM
wiley-moeracing wiley-moeracing is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Feb 15, 2010
Location: arizona
Posts: 1,087
Verify that the ignition switch is not still sending power to the solenoid after returning the key switch to the running position then you know if is the switch or the solenoid.
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