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  #1  
Old 09-07-2019, 07:22 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Location: New Hampshire
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AW4 Transmission Swap

I am prepping and gathering parts to swap out the TF727 for an AW4. The plan is to keep the NP229 and column shifter.

Here's the parts list so far....

-AW4 transmission - 23 spline
-AW4 harness, attached to transmission
-Cherokee underhood main harness (Has wiring to TCU)
-TCU
-TPS sensor
-AW4 starter
-AW4 flywheel
-Spacer between NP229 and AW4
-various lines and fittings for transmission cooler
-transmission cooler

So far, I have the TCU, AW4 and both harnesses.

For the spacer, I was considering this. Is this what I need?
Advanced Adapters Part 50-8603

https://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...t-to-dana-300/

I would appreciate any tips or advice.
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  #2  
Old 09-07-2019, 08:07 AM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Is your gearing going to work well with OD?
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  #3  
Old 09-07-2019, 01:51 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel
Is your gearing going to work well with OD?

3.31 & stock wheels and tires. According to some other threads, that should be ok, and @ 65 mph rpms will be between 1800 rpm-2100rpm.
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  #4  
Old 09-07-2019, 04:13 PM
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offthebeatenpath offthebeatenpath is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '89_Wagon
3.31 & stock wheels and tires. According to some other threads, that should be ok, and @ 65 mph rpms will be between 1800 rpm-2100rpm.

If I remember right, my '98 XJ had 3.55's with that AW4. I lost a bit of grunt when I went to 31's. That was with the 4.0 liter motor.
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  #5  
Old 09-07-2019, 09:00 PM
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Mikel Mikel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '89_Wagon
3.31 & stock wheels and tires. According to some other threads, that should be ok, and @ 65 mph rpms will be between 1800 rpm-2100rpm.




You should be in good shape. Please keep us updated.
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  #6  
Old 09-07-2019, 09:47 PM
yossarian19 yossarian19 is offline
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Pretty sure what you need is a Dana 300 clocking ring if you have passenger's drop,
flip ring if you have driver's.
I've got a flip ring I'd let go for cheap + shipping (I needed the clocking ring. Whoops)
The NP229 is standard six-bolt NV / NP mounting, right?
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  #7  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:55 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yossarian19
Pretty sure what you need is a Dana 300 clocking ring if you have passenger's drop,
flip ring if you have driver's.
I've got a flip ring I'd let go for cheap + shipping (I needed the clocking ring. Whoops)
The NP229 is standard six-bolt NV / NP mounting, right?

The pattern is the same, but I'm getting conflicting info. I think I need the clocking ring. I think a flip ring would make my np229 a passenger drop... which I don't want. Can someone confirm that?

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 09-12-2019 at 04:01 PM.
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  #8  
Old 09-11-2019, 09:13 AM
pickledtoast pickledtoast is offline
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I'm planning on the AW4 swap in my '90 this winter as well. I thought the NP229 bolted to the AW4 without an adapter.
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  #9  
Old 09-11-2019, 01:01 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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From my reading, there's a gap when you insert the shaft of about an inch. A 7/8 thick ring will work.
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2019, 01:21 PM
pickledtoast pickledtoast is offline
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Yeah i did more research after posting that. Seems a spacer is needed. Should be pretty simple to make hopefully.

I have a '95 AW4 and a '97 TCU.

Last edited by pickledtoast : 09-25-2019 at 01:21 PM.
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  #11  
Old 09-14-2019, 07:52 AM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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You'll need 7/8" spacer and longer mounting studs because the earlier Tcase input shaft sticks out further than the later NV231/241
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2019, 01:59 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Thanks for confirming the about the spacer.

Still wondering what to do about driveshafts. How much will the rear need to be shortened? The front lengthened? Can I use the existing driveshafts?

Took out the wiring, labeled a few things, and purchased some odds and ends for the electrical. I'll do another post about the wiring.

TCM Harness
[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heBhop][/IMG]

TCM Pin
[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heCXL3][/IMG]

[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heCWrE][/IMG]

[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heCWyZ][/IMG]

Step down and TPS
[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heBaTR][/IMG]

TCM. Does anybody know what year this one is? Seems to pug in fine with a 96 harness (32 pin)
[IMG][url=https://flic.kr/p/2heDLQ4][/IMG]
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2019, 03:41 PM
80Limited 80Limited is offline
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Do a search for my build AW4 completed on here. If you have any questions pm me.
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  #14  
Old 09-21-2019, 09:02 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Bought a 7/8 flip/clocking ring off ebay. Looking at this now, I think I just need long studs to pass through the adapter which the transmission and TC will grab onto... no clocking or flipping necessary. When I drop the TC, I'll confirm, but if that's the case I think a flip or clocking ring will work.

I bought gaskets for a NP231 adapter for about $11 just to give a little extra space between the NP229 and AW4.

Ring and gaskets


Thickness with gaskets
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  #15  
Old 10-02-2019, 06:05 PM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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I made a bracket for the tps. It's different than the other setups I've seen. Ill post some picks later.

Next up is a transmission cooler. Any recommendations?
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2019, 10:43 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Here are some pics of the mocked up TPS sensor bracket. This is on a TBI unit. I think this type of setup would work with most types of systems.

The black thing looks like a collar arc weld stud. I have no idea how it ended up in my miscellaneous hardware, but it fits perfectly in the TPS sensor. It's slightly less than 10mm in diameter on the side that has a slot cut into

The throttle rod is temporary. Looking for something that's a bit more stiff.

I'll try to disassemble it and write something it. Not difficult make... could even get away with not welding.

Stud


Stud in the TPS sensor






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  #17  
Old 10-06-2019, 06:51 AM
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JeepsAndGuns JeepsAndGuns is offline
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Ok, I am really confused.
You appear to be running a GM throttle body fuel injection system. Do you know the jeep and GM systems both use the same 0-5v signal from the TPS sensors right? Why are you not simply splicing into the signal wire from the TPS on the throttle body?
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93 Wrangler 4.6 stroker/AX15/NP231,SYE,CV, OME 2.5 lift, front hub conversion/big brakes, 31X10.50's Warn M10000 winch.
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  #18  
Old 10-07-2019, 11:23 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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At first, I was hoping to use the GM TPS reference wire and I might still do that. But, I did some initial comparisons between the GM and Jeep sensors at 0%, 50%, and 100% throttle and the differences were large enough that I though it best to run the Cherokee sensor first and test the GM sensor later... one less potential issue to have at the start. Although, I tested the Cherokee sensor on the bench with its full sweep. When installed, the sweep is much shorter. I'll run the test now with it installed just to see what the values come in at.

I do have a question about the brake "sense"... I'm getting conflicting info. I think applying the brake opens the circuit to the TCU (Ov). Is that correct? This is for a 96 system. Mikrestrawbridge.com says it's the opposite for later years but the manuals and information I see on other sites seem to say that all years behave the same.... 12v when off the brake and 0V on the brake.

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 10-08-2019 at 05:12 AM.
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  #19  
Old 10-08-2019, 03:19 AM
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67GMC 67GMC is offline
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Hello-I had an AW4 in my 87 Cherokee XJ. The Cherokee Forum https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ is a good site for information on the AW4. It might be helpful for your project.

I used this PDF manual for the transmission. There's a link here:
https://issuu.com/memonunez/docs/aw4_manual

Not sure if you will need a speed sensor for your set up. My AW4 had one. It tells how fast you're going for the up and downshifting and sends that to the TCU. The TCUs are different for different years. I think they all use the same connector but have different numbers of wires connected but have some different programming. May want to research that.

Good luck. It looks like it will be a great project.
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Last edited by 67GMC : 10-08-2019 at 03:27 AM.
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  #20  
Old 10-09-2019, 11:00 AM
'89_Wagon '89_Wagon is offline
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Thanks for the heads up. I think the speed sensor(s) are attached to the transmission. The 87s used a Renix based system which is different than the Asini based system I’m working with. I think the big changes in electronics happened in 1990.5 and 97. I found some pretty good info on the electronics on this page. From what I can tell… 1990.5+ are the ones to get for our FSJs. They have the right spline count on the output shaft of 23.

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1053970

The transmission harness has been carved of the body harness, and for the most part it’s self contained. It just needs ground, battery, switched 12+, and some outputs hooked up. Most of the confusion I have is about those outputs.

This probably only applies to 1990.5-1996 models for the most part. There were some changes made to 97+ years and I’ll try to note them here. Please chime in if anything is wrong or vague. I haven’t done the install yet so take this with a grain of salt. My next post has all the related wiring diagrams

1. Switches for backup lights and neutral. All the “switches” for backup lights and nuetral are really just the NSS switch on the right side of the transmission. I’ll be taking it apart to clean it. Apparently it’s common for these to get gummed up and stop working.

a. Park/Nuetral switch: Brown/Yellow* wire from black plug. Luckily, this grounds out the starter relay in the Cherokee so this can be connected directly to the GW starter relay and everything should work.

b. Backup light switch: Brown/Green* from black connector. This switch feeds the backup lights directly on the Cherokee using what I think is a similar bulb, 1156 on the Cherokee vs a 1157 on the GW. No relay needed here. The AW4 NSS should be able to handle the current.

2. Switched Power: Everything seems to indicate that the TCU is powered in the “run” and “start” positions. Obviously, it needs to be at least powered in the run position.

3. Brake “sense” wiring: White/pink* wire from TCU. I had some confusion about whether this was switched to 12+ or ground. In 96, the circuit switched to ground. In 97, the circuit seems to switch to 12+. From there, they both operate the same, open circuit means brake on, closed circuit means brake off. This “sense” circuit locks/unlocks the toque converter.
The plan is to use the GW cruise control brake signal (pink wire) and wire it to a relay that switches to ground. Here’s the pinout using a 5 terminal mini relay.

Coil
1. 12V from GW brake switch (PNK wire from cruise control)
2. Ground

Switch
3. White/pink* from TCU
4. Ground
5. Empty

The overall plan is to use the power distribution box that came from the Cherokee. The TCU is already hooked up to it and I’ll have options to put other circuits in there. It’s going to live where the vacuum reservoir and cruise control components used to be in the engine bay. I’m also going to wire the fuel pump and TBI ECU there too because right now, the relays are buried above the AC panel, behind the dash, and duct taped to something. Should just make things a big cleaner and easier to replace. This will also give me an opportunity to plug everything in before installing the transmission just to test out that things are working properly and as expected.

I’ll follow up with wiring diagram pictures….

Last edited by '89_Wagon : 10-11-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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