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  #61  
Old 11-20-2010, 09:01 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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Well thanks. I am trying to do an update. I am having issues posting the pictures. They are also to big for this site to try and attach. I will try in the morning with a full cup of coffee when I have more time.

Edit: Tried to upload from photobucket and no go. PB has been more of a PITA lately. Tried to upload to another site and it's not working. Sorry for the teaser. I will get it sorted out and post up.
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Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
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1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 11-21-2010 at 12:38 PM.
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  #62  
Old 12-20-2010, 01:01 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Well it seems I have resolved my picture posting problem. It seems I keep losing family though. Thanksgiving week I lost the third member of my family this year. You know what they say about coming in three's. I am supposed to be walking this road I guess. I have to add I am grateful to be working on jeeps in the process. I have gotten a few things done.
I had a few more edge repairs. Just like the ones posted before. The door pillars also had some rust that needed work.

After close examination of the back side I determined I could melt back the thin spot to good metal, then back fill it and dress it back. You have to be careful with rust in places like this. If the whole panel had the same pitting then I could chase rotten metal with the TIG torch till the cows come home.
If that was the case I would have to brace the car more and start replacing the door pillar. The 69 outside was in better condition if it was needed.



After, I used a 1.5 inch drum sander on a straight shaft air tool for the final finish.



The other side.



After.



I did some clean up on the center panel. The welded edges were taped off and the bottom side cleaned and painted then partially undercoated where it was difficult to reach once landed in the vehicle.



Then it was time for the final fitting. I elected to start with this panel since it goes in one spot and one spot only. The rear panel was a custom GMC donor panel. Starting there could mean misalignment found later. So the center was on its way in permanent. I used every single clamp and vise grip I owned. I even bought a few new ones beforehand. Every part had to be clamped and in place before the first weld. Because once you start...




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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #63  
Old 12-20-2010, 02:06 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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The new panel went in nice. Here is joining it with the wheel house.



The back edges with the only original floor left in the old girl. Less than 2 square feet. LOL!



It looks good under there! No daylight!



Next is the rear custom section. The two body mount holes fell right in a bad spot. Right on the ramp of a raised stamping in the bed floor. I needed a flat section to put a plug in later.
After some experimenting I drew a bulls eye on a piece of tin. Using a bigger section of pipe on the bottom and a smaller one on top, I was able to use my bearing press to make a part to weld in. I needed to match the depth and press accordingly. They looked like little mini gold pans when I was done. I used a hole saw on the panel. I had to be careful on the depth. I did not want to scar the floor valley bottom.






I used super magnets since I could not reach the back side. That would tell me when it fit right. Ever try to weld around a magnet? Let alone a SUPER magnet. Was quite a light show getting it tacked in place to weld.



So it looks like this.



I use a unibit to make the holes. If you want a true round hole use a unibit.
Drill bits leave sloppy holes. This is important if you are drilling a dash for an indicator light or something you may see. I will drill the final size after I find the right metal plug.



So that leaves the rear floor. I see two cuts to make. The front edge and one small interference fit on one the original parts. Then drill and punch several dozen holes in all the panels to weld up. Home made spot welds.
The inner rockers are going in also. I will test fit everything with the two factory inner panels I carefully extracted from a 79 years ago. Then slip the new hammer formed ones in and make any small adjustments needed. There is always a minor push or pull to do. Then off with all the weld through primer. That has been the biggest mistake of this entire project.
I think it might be fine with a MIG or stick. But trying to TIG weld with that garbage on there has made lots more work. Avoid the stuff and paint it and seal it properly when the work is done like it is supposed to be.

Almost in.



It was not planned to have the little sunken stampings in the original jeep body part line up with the raised part of the GMC panel. That was just a lucky bonus.

Happy holidays every one.

Stay tuned.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7

Last edited by Kaiserjeeps : 12-20-2010 at 02:23 AM.
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  #64  
Old 12-20-2010, 02:46 AM
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mud89 mud89 is offline
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Really impressive and very interesting, that's professional work
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  #65  
Old 12-23-2010, 02:02 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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Whats behind floor number 2?

Clean black paint and zero rust...

It's a circus around here, but I managed to land the 2nd floor section in for a permanent ride in Sadie the full size jeep. It looks good. I get really careful when I am about to assemble something for a final time. I double check everything. It seemed to be a go. The body mounts had equal loading with each other and the others front and back. It is time to make it done deal.


Here is the floor underside painted and ready for under coating later.



I love cleco's. I found a speed nut from the hardware store can be used to clamp when the hole is to big for the selected cleco. I drilled the holes a bit big to make sure to capture all three layers. I made the floor panel poke half way through the weld hole to get a good bond.





Here it is welded but not sanded back. It says GMC because this was a donor panel from a short bed GMC truck rear half. I got it from Classic industries. They were great to deal with. It actually made a really easy add in. If anybody wants to tackle this in the future, a GMC panel worked great.



Lots of clamping and spot welding.



I was finishing the front edge when my Girl drove up. I am going to take a minute for the holiday.
There is a little bit of wavyness in this edge. From terminating every raised stamping right next to this edge, I get some dolly and hammer work to make it level. One tiny area at a time. Then sand it back and plannish the weld to level and stress relieve. I am going to need to grow super long arms or have to get help with that work.



I want to take a picture of that clamp in the back ground and post it. 21 bucks for 4 at TP tools. They are real cool. They make a butt weld level between two panels. Makes it a lot easier to make it flat.


Have a good Christmas everyone. Don't forget to embelish on your good fortune no matter what your situation this year. I hope you all get everything you need and even a little of what you want.

Merry Christmas.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #66  
Old 12-23-2010, 02:14 PM
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Mikel Mikel is online now
 
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Holy cow! Amazing work!
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1969 M715 6x6
1963 J300 Swivel frame
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  #67  
Old 12-24-2010, 11:55 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Join Date: Oct 02, 2002
Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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I'm just replacing body panels Mikel. Now your 6x6, that's amazing. I have been following that. But thanks.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #68  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:33 PM
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Mikel Mikel is online now
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaiserjeeps
I'm just replacing body panels Mikel. Now your 6x6, that's amazing. I have been following that. But thanks.
I´ve done enough body panel replacing myself to admire good work. And what you´ve done requires a great deal of talent!
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  #69  
Old 12-24-2010, 12:37 PM
chef chef is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikel
I´ve done enough body panel replacing myself to admire good work. And what you´ve done requires a great deal of talent!
X2
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http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=125460
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  #70  
Old 01-02-2011, 01:23 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Happy New Year

I got the two edges welded together. Lots of spot welds and quick quenching with a wet rag to shrink it back. I used (6) 36" 1/16 filler rods. Quite a bit.
As I welded I had to align. It is not realistic to expect a flat panel after a weld like this. Keeping it as flat as possible as you go is helpful to making the final plannishing work turn out well. I used several straight edges from the little 3" square to a 3 foot long one.





This was my worst concern. I really like import car scissor jacks to move stuff. I gave a push under the rig to bring this up to level.



Next it was wait for a friend to come over and help plannish the weld. I am pleased to say that there is to much body panel in the way to reach. It took a few minutes to establish the coordination between the hammer and dolly. You can tell when you get a solid hit. This levels the panels completely and takes away the weld stress. It also reduces the chances of things moving later on the road after it is put in use.



Get comfortable. Every miss strike with the hammer leaves a correction to be done. I had to plannish from both sides. Don't over plannish. If you do it will stretch the metal from the hammer blows. Thats when you move to plastic hammers. Or wood or rawhide etc.



It looks pretty good.






I need to weld the inner rockers to the bottoms of the new posts. It is tight in there and I will need to shorten my TIG torch to fit. I am eager to put down some primer and see it all one color. It has been in the 20's here. To cold even with a wood stove.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #71  
Old 01-03-2011, 11:13 AM
twisted frame twisted frame is offline
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I'm learning a lot here. Thank you. Your photos and details are very valuable. It looks amazing.
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1973 J4000, 360 2bbl, T18, Model 20,
44, 60-2, 32x11.5x15" on 15x8" CJ wagon wheels.
Now in black primer.
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  #72  
Old 01-03-2011, 12:19 PM
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Coryd55 Coryd55 is offline
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Hard to find someone that can work with metal like that now. Great job. I am jealous of your metal skills.

Looking forward to more updates.
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  #73  
Old 01-03-2011, 10:12 PM
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jaber jaber is offline
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I too wish I had those skills.
I'm trying to learn though...
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46 cj2a

51 Willys p/u
'51 Willys Parkway Conversion
'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
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http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh14/jeffaber/
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  #74  
Old 01-03-2011, 11:14 PM
Dr Teeth Dr Teeth is offline
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Wow!

I think we may need to change the title of this thread from "Another 70 wagoneer build" to "THE 70 wagoneer build".

Amazing work so far, the attention to detail is top notch.

Todd
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  #75  
Old 01-04-2011, 05:18 AM
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That is truely incredible workmanship. I know guys that would have said no way and sent it to the scrap pile.

If you are looking for more practice I could get my 72 to you...Heck, I don't even mind if you tear another one apart to put mine back together!

Nice work, I agree w/relabeling this post as THE Rebuild - all of the others are not rebuilds in comparison.
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  #76  
Old 01-04-2011, 01:11 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Those are the nicest compliments I have ever heard in my life. I am grateful to be able to do this work. I am grateful for the words. I am grateful for digital cameras.
I want to say something about following your bliss. I love metal work. When I decided to try this it was to try to survive. I was at risk of losing a lot. With fingers crossed I took the first step. MLK said you don't have to see the whole stairwell, just take the first step. Well, doors have opened for me that I could not see. I have had people give me brand new MIG welders bottle and all. I have people waiting for me to finish this rig so I can start on theirs. I never imagined a hobby or an interest would turn out this cool.
If you have a passion, run with it. Amazing stuff will happen.

Now if I could just get my home sold and get my 40X60 shop built. Then I will have room to really be set up nicely. 2011 will be interesting. Busy but interesting.

I am very humbled by your comments. Thank you. Thank you very much.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #77  
Old 01-05-2011, 11:30 AM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Well time to start looking at the last donor panel from the 69 outside. The passenger rocker edge was great. I needed to remove the excess metal by drilling the spot welds. I went the quick removal with a sawzall. Just like old times.



The drivers edge is another story. Some time in it's life the wag was hit in the drivers side. When it was repaired it was brazed with brass. Not only did this warp the heck out of the entire edge it contaminated the steel with the brass. It acts just like the weld through primer mistake by blowing out the steel and coating my tungsten. I elected to cut the entire edge and all the warped metal out. I will have better faster results this way. I really wish I had a bead roller. That is in my future.

Here is one of 4 creases from the impact. I used metal and plastic hammers with a dolly. Off and on dolly work. It is flat now.



Here is the chewed up edge.



It does not show the multiple areas of warpage that well. It's a mess of highs and lows.



My cut lines. It got to late last night to cut it with the noise.



I ended up coming in and watching U-tube videos till the wee hours of the night. There is some really great stuff there. There are guys that want to keep the art alive and pass it on. Some high end places like one found right here in PDX show their work but covet the information. There is a gentleman named Lazze that has 45 videos of metal work. That is just one guy. It's really cool. I learn a lot from there. I take the concept and go grab a hammer and see what happens. It's fun.

When I was a kid I used to dent my Tonka's with a ball peen hammer.
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #78  
Old 01-06-2011, 09:52 PM
twisted frame twisted frame is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 01, 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,039
Is there a name for the kind of bit you used to drill out the spot welds?

Also, I too used to smash Matchbox cars with hammers.
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1973 J4000, 360 2bbl, T18, Model 20,
44, 60-2, 32x11.5x15" on 15x8" CJ wagon wheels.
Now in black primer.
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  #79  
Old 01-08-2011, 01:21 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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I guess it would be a spot weld cutter. It is like a mini hole saw. With a reversible bit. I just called Napa for the part numbers. The cutter is a # 770-3841 and the bit refills are # 770-3842. Always keep the drill speed slow.
And make sure you use a very sharp center punch to hold the bit till it digs in and centers the bit. When the get away from you they can break teeth. They are very hard and brittle.



I wanted to post the black square panel clamps. Those things are great for aligning a butt weld in two panels. They won't correct a major miss alignment, but work very well when the parts are fitted close. They costs 21 bucks for 4 of them at TP tools. Dragging a finger nail across the gap will tell you if one side is higher than the other. They work pretty well.

And the cleco pliers and clamps. The absolute best clamping system for fitting a panel to a car. The beauty of these is when you drill the panels to clamp them, the clecos allow you to put the panel back in the exact same spot for very accurate fitting every single time.
Say you were replacing a quarter panel. When you cut the bad panel out you stop the cut and leave a tab the size of your thumb. Resume the cut after the tab. When putting the new panel on the car that tab you left bent in just a little now makes a fantastic mounting tab for a cleco. You mount the new panel over the tab, drill them for the correct cleco clamp and now the panel will go back to the same spot every time. No vise grip or C-clamp errors and constantly changing gaps. These are also pretty cheap for a small starter set.

My wood stove is going out there and my girlfriend just went home for three days. I guess I better get out there and do something.
Cheers!
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Am I done yet?

Holy Moly, I am done.....

Most users ever online was 656, 06-30-2007 at 09:50 PM.
I was there! Still waiting for my Tee shirt...

1969 1414X Wag,
1970 and 71 project J trucks
1970 Wagoneer Not Sadie
1983 FJ60 wagon
CJ-5's and a 7
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  #80  
Old 01-08-2011, 02:51 PM
twisted frame twisted frame is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Apr 01, 2003
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,039
Much appreciated! Also, been watching some of Lazze's videos. Thanks for that tip as well.
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1973 J4000, 360 2bbl, T18, Model 20,
44, 60-2, 32x11.5x15" on 15x8" CJ wagon wheels.
Now in black primer.
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