Rhino Grille and Round Headlight Conversion Guide

[rwells427]

The next modification I would like to make on my 1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer is the rhino grille conversion as stated in the title. I have read a lot of the forums on how to do this and I want to clearly lay out what needs to be done here and I invite advice from other members of the forum to help me make a complete guide to the conversion. Also, I have not seen anyone post they have done this successfully on a 1984 Grand Wagoneer, so if someone could tell me if that has been done for my particular model, I would greatly appreciate it.

What I think I know must be done-

1. Remove old grille, headlights, headlight buckets.
2. Reposition transmission cooler by mounting it on the inside of the brackets towards the radiator for clearance of the lower profile rhino grille.
3. Cut off mounting brackets for stock grille, of which there are five- One in the center below the transmission cooler, where you leave the tab that is already behind it. Two are parallel with the top of the turn signal lights underneath the circle cutouts. Two are right above the outside corners of the turn signal lights. (Here I have a question- Do you have to fill in the screw holes where the stock grille mounts underneath the hood, and do you have to take off the extra inch plate that is bolted on the top there across the middle?)
4. Make mounting tabs to be able to use the old CJ headlights and buckets in the wagoneer holes, or combine the back of your original bucket to the front of a CJ bucket as shown by David London on youtube. (Here I have another question- Has anyone upgraded to LED circle lights that could fit in those holes and if so do you have to rewire everything or is it fairly easy to convert?)
5. Fix and repaint the body to make it look presentable for where the stock grille covered the front and where the brackets were removed.
6. Fasten the new lights using the tabs you made for them or the modified buckets.
7. Fasten the rhino grille using the pre-existing tabs- of which there are five- The one in the center from behind the mounting bracket previously cut off, and two on each side of the center cutout. (Here I have another question- does it line up perfectly to the pre-existing tabs or do new holes need to be made to fasten the grille as well?)

Please fill me in on any steps that may be missing or details that I have explained incorrectly. Also, please answer the questions I incorporated into my steps. This way I can take pictures as I carry out this project and can make one complete start-to-finish outline of how to convert a grand wagoneer to the rhino grille set up.

Thanks in advance.
-Rob

1984 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
70s Style Custom Paint Job
Rebuilt AMC 360 V8 Engine
Edelbrock 4-Barrel Carburetor, Air Cleaner, and Intake Manifold
Super Flowmaster 44 Exhaust with dual-to-single catalytic converter

[Tinkerjeep]

I did an article in Jeep Junkie magazine about 6-7 years ago. I'll post pics from that if I can find them. I used all old 1960s sheetmetal though in my two Gladiator conversions. Facepanel and hood really like to be from the same years...and there are reasons I didn't just mod the newer sheetmetal and use a newer hood: Less fabbing. Better fitting, and cleaner lines when done.

Plus the older hood is practically hail proof...no dents from marble sized anyway.

Here's a few pics showing the major cosmetic/ technical problems you will run into when you go with the later model sheetmetal, aside from filling a million holes.

[Tinkerjeep]

1963 facepanel/valence on 1976 Wagoneer clip

[Tinkerjeep]

Top of the valence "pillars"

[Tinkerjeep]

Top of 1976 core support needs a latch hole for hood

[Tinkerjeep]

1963 valence back side needs radiator clearance

[Tinkerjeep]

1979 and newer has a few cosmetic/technical problems

The hood is a 1963 hood with its "Rhino curve". The valence is from my 1981 Cherk. The headlight cut outs are common due to rectangular headlights in the post-1978 years.



All of this can be "fixed" but it takes time and a really good welder (man and machine) to get it filled in/ ground down and looking boss.

[Tinkerjeep]

As far as wiring...I used 1978 buckets and they are wired the same I believe, same headlight prongs and turn signal connectors.

The older buckets/lights do need separate ground wires run to sheetmetal.

No biggy.

I also recessed my buckets 2.5" inches so I could run steel speaker grill for tinting/protection of the headlights. That operation does require more effort and cutting the core-support out so the back of the headlight buckets actually protrude into the front wheel wells. Covers are required.

[rwells427]

Thanks for your input tinker but for this I'd like to keep the front panel of my 84 original. I don't have nearly enough income to get that drastic with this modification so I'm really looking to make the rhino grille work on the Grand Wagoneer.

As for the lights, do you know what would happen if you went for LED or HID rounds instead of factory originals? I want to have brighter white light rather then the yellow light I'm getting out of the halogen bulbs I've got now.

Also, if anyone has an old rhino grille and the parts needed for this assembly message me personally because I am still in the market for everything. Please keep that straight to me though as to not clog up this feed.

[Tinkerjeep]

I hope you're a decent welder. I'm okay at it but hate welding sheetmetal, especially this Jeep instarust junk.

I did my first one in 1997 I think. And the parts were in Junkyards back then. The second one I did because I drove down an alley and saw a bent up J200 front clip. mentioned it to another Jeep buddy and he knew who owned it, along with the roller it was from. I ended up getting the bent front clip and a stripped 1963 J200, and the roller went to scrap - too used up to do anything with, but the valence, grill and front fenders were mostly salvageable. Tryin' to find that in decent shape NOW would be a bit harder depending on where you live.

I don't disrespect you for trying to keep your original stuff, but it does make for a lot more cosmetic work to get it looking right.

I've never run HIDs or LEDs for light. HIDs are too bright hen I see them and would never want to subject the poor guy in the oncoming lane to that! LEDs are very short range, high brightness from what I've seen and the same issue. Plus the individual LEDs start burning out in a couple years and then you got stupid patterns showing up in your lights. LEDs are a fad.

I run stock Halogen bulbs and use Relays. I have 30 amp Relay for the High beams and a 30 amp relay for the low beams. Wiring is fairly easy. Use 12ga wire for the feeds and good fuses. The light level is about 50-70% brighter on my low-beams and a lot brighter/wider on my high beams. Keep in mind, this is using the stock round headlights with a dual fillament Halogen glass bulb. No plastic housing like an H3 or H4 has.

As far as finding parts...I've seen the grill alone go for $200+. But my buddy just bought one for $50 though, so its not hopeless. Just gotta know the right guys.

[rwells427]

If you happen to see another one of those grilles for cheap or your friend that has one knows where I might be able to score one for better than 200 please let me know. I'm just a college kid so I don't have the money for this but as you know, it is too cool not to. But good advice on the headlights, could I get those relays at a local auto store or do I need to order it?

By the way, I tried to send this on a private message but your inbox is full so I couldn't.

[Tinkerjeep]

Sorry about getting back to this so late. Yeah. I have a history of PMs addressing various subjects and recently the mailbox maximum ws cut from 100 to 50. I have been culling PMs as I can to barely maintain enough room to allow a conversation.

The 5- prong relays should be available at a good electronics store along with the plug for them. You can rewire the plug so you can use 12ga wire for the feeds, or just run individual female spade connectors. I've done it both ways. No preference.

My buddy bought his Rhino grill in 2012 from a friend of mine who was getting rid of some parts J-trucks and had a Rhino that he had been keeping since the late 1990s I think. We each bought a parts truck for $100 or less and the grill was up for grabs. I let him have it. I had two already. I haven't seen any other Rhino grills locally aside from that one for a decade. They became really popular and the going rate for a good one was around $200-$250. I think someone on this site was selling fiberglass reproductions though.

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=153007