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I have a TBI injected AMC 360 and I was getting horrible noise in the tach signal from the distributor VR sensor....so I got rid of it....all of it.
Parts for this swap are very cheap, but you do need a computer to control changes to timing. You could use a standalone system such as megajolt ($80), but if you're doing fuel injection, just go full MegaSquirt and enjoy all of the benefits.
You'll need:
1.) 2x 4 post Ford EDIS coil packs and their connectors (junkyard - $20)
-you can get the coils from any 4 or 8 cylinder Ford from the 90s
2.) Ford EDIS module and connector (junkyard - $18)
-can be found on the driverside fender of 90's crown vic/towncar/merc. Make sure you cut the harness as far from the module as possible.
3.) Crank sensor (junkyard - $5)
-soursed from an e30 BMW. You have to get it from a 325i (the e doesn't have it). A 525 from the early 90's will work too. These can be found on the exhaust side, front of the engine near the crank pulley.
4.) Ford crown Vic wires (Pepboys $55)
-ask for the wires from a 1994 Crown Vic. Make sure the wires have clips on the coil side. The cheaper ones don't....not worth the chance of slipping.
5.) 8x double platinums (Advance Auto 8x ~$4)
-Use whatever brand you like that are stock for your engine, but they must be double platinum. Wasted spark fires two cylinders at once. One has the gas mixture and one has exhaust mixture. Because the electricity travels through the exhaust plug, a regular plug will corode quickly. Gap to 55. IT seems large, but it will idle so smooth.
5.) Some shielded wire pairs (junkyard - free)
- all of the signal wires must be shielded to keep noise out. Grab a bunch just in case
6.) Bracket to hold the crank sensor (make it yourself)
- I made it out of 1/4" steel and mounted it to the former mechanical fuel pump bolt holes. (use a new gasket here to avoid leaks) You want to get the center of the sensor over the 36-1 ring and have the gap between the ring teeth and sensor to be about 1 mm. It's very close and I used a feeler gauge to check it a couple times. I also used a hammer on the bracket to "adjust" the gap.
7.) Crank pulley w/36-1 ring (from ebay seller in England - got here at $55...ouch)
-This is the most difficult part. You must get a toothed ring on the crank pulley. Ebay listed as: Universal 6.5" diameter 36-1 ECU trigger wheel with 5.25" hole. Seller: trigger-wheels. If you get a different ring...it must be mild steel. No SS or aluminum.
Wheel must be aligned with gap 5 ahead of the sensor.
Image from Megasquirt page.
Here is the basic wiring diagram:
Parts for this swap are very cheap, but you do need a computer to control changes to timing. You could use a standalone system such as megajolt ($80), but if you're doing fuel injection, just go full MegaSquirt and enjoy all of the benefits.
You'll need:
1.) 2x 4 post Ford EDIS coil packs and their connectors (junkyard - $20)
-you can get the coils from any 4 or 8 cylinder Ford from the 90s
2.) Ford EDIS module and connector (junkyard - $18)
-can be found on the driverside fender of 90's crown vic/towncar/merc. Make sure you cut the harness as far from the module as possible.
3.) Crank sensor (junkyard - $5)
-soursed from an e30 BMW. You have to get it from a 325i (the e doesn't have it). A 525 from the early 90's will work too. These can be found on the exhaust side, front of the engine near the crank pulley.
4.) Ford crown Vic wires (Pepboys $55)
-ask for the wires from a 1994 Crown Vic. Make sure the wires have clips on the coil side. The cheaper ones don't....not worth the chance of slipping.
5.) 8x double platinums (Advance Auto 8x ~$4)
-Use whatever brand you like that are stock for your engine, but they must be double platinum. Wasted spark fires two cylinders at once. One has the gas mixture and one has exhaust mixture. Because the electricity travels through the exhaust plug, a regular plug will corode quickly. Gap to 55. IT seems large, but it will idle so smooth.
5.) Some shielded wire pairs (junkyard - free)
- all of the signal wires must be shielded to keep noise out. Grab a bunch just in case
6.) Bracket to hold the crank sensor (make it yourself)
- I made it out of 1/4" steel and mounted it to the former mechanical fuel pump bolt holes. (use a new gasket here to avoid leaks) You want to get the center of the sensor over the 36-1 ring and have the gap between the ring teeth and sensor to be about 1 mm. It's very close and I used a feeler gauge to check it a couple times. I also used a hammer on the bracket to "adjust" the gap.
7.) Crank pulley w/36-1 ring (from ebay seller in England - got here at $55...ouch)
-This is the most difficult part. You must get a toothed ring on the crank pulley. Ebay listed as: Universal 6.5" diameter 36-1 ECU trigger wheel with 5.25" hole. Seller: trigger-wheels. If you get a different ring...it must be mild steel. No SS or aluminum.
Wheel must be aligned with gap 5 ahead of the sensor.
Image from Megasquirt page.
Here is the basic wiring diagram:
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