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View Poll Results: What Viscosity Motor Oil Do You Use?
5W20 3 0.69%
5W30 17 3.92%
10W30 146 33.64%
10W40 134 30.88%
20W50 74 17.05%
SAE 30 Wt 9 2.07%
What ever's on sale 8 1.84%
Not listed 43 9.91%
Voters: 434. You may not vote on this poll

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  #121  
Old 03-27-2012, 10:53 AM
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Rich88 Rich88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svining
I guess you didn't get the memo on the special chip that doubles horsepower and triples milage for $29.95

Dang you're right. Tnx for the heads up. So I just found one "Buy-It-Now" on eBay for $19.99. Between that and my fuel line magnet, should be sweet.
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  #122  
Old 03-27-2012, 11:41 AM
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svining svining is offline
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Cool Awww! Ya gotta have copper lines

Rich, the magnet doesn't work without copper lines, so that all the cations on the fuel molecules polarize correctly, (++<--) Ferrous metals mess that sequenceing up, what do they teach you kids in school these days!





Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich88
Dang you're right. Tnx for the heads up. So I just found one "Buy-It-Now" on eBay for $19.99. Between that and my fuel line magnet, should be sweet.
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  #123  
Old 03-30-2012, 04:58 PM
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Wagonbeer Wagonbeer is offline
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oil...

Here in the Arizona high country, I prefer Castrol 20-50 in the summer and Castrol synth 5-30 for our cold winters. I'm pushing 300k miles on the lower end and 100k top end since the last rebuilds. When I first got the Waggy, I got a ticket for excessive oil blowout! Fixed that with 2 bottles of the thick goo additive. That worked 6 months (summer) till I rebuilt. I would never run two bottles of thick oil goop in winter though; probably break a rod!
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1968 Jeep / Kaiser Wagoneer
350ci Chevy
TH 400
Dana/Spicer 20 TC
Dana 44 rear
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4" Rancho lift springs
33 x 12.5 BFG Muds
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  #124  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:01 PM
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Wagonbeer Wagonbeer is offline
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oils...

Here in the Arizona high country, I prefer Castrol 20-50 in the summer and Castrol synth 5-30 for our cold winters. I'm pushing 300k miles on the lower end and 100k top end since the last rebuilds. When I first got the Waggy, I got a ticket for excessive oil blowout! Fixed that with 2 bottles of the thick goo additive. That worked 6 months (summer) till I rebuilt. I would never run two bottles of thick oil goop in winter though; probably break a rod!
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1968 Jeep / Kaiser Wagoneer
350ci Chevy
TH 400
Dana/Spicer 20 TC
Dana 44 rear
Dana 30 front
4" Rancho lift springs
33 x 12.5 BFG Muds
27.3 sf Duct Tape
4.5" bailing wire


“Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe.”

― Albert Einstein
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  #125  
Old 03-31-2012, 12:21 PM
robert cowan robert cowan is offline
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here in tn personally i prefer straight weight oils especially now since 99% of all oils has been modified to be politically correct. I like zinc in my oil so I run valvoline racing oil straight 50 in hot summer months and 20 to 30 weight in winter months depending on temp outside.
bob
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  #126  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:49 AM
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I used to run 15W40 Delo but now I run Napa's synthetic 15W50
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  #127  
Old 04-26-2012, 04:18 AM
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What says the manufacturer service manual?

Furthermore, are you talking about synthetic oil or the old one standard oil ( i do not find the word for this)?

do you have any codes? SAE ....? or AMC approved?
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  #128  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:21 PM
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the original Honcho the original Honcho is offline
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I go by the temperature guides. Since here in the desert the temp ranges between avg low of 25*-ish to a avg high of around 100*, 10w40 fits my range. my DD will usually get thinner oil in the winter.

Lucas oil stabilizer is great, too! it goes in any of my engines that have over 50k
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  #129  
Old 06-04-2012, 11:50 PM
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I know most people hate it because of the parafin wax in it, but I have been putting STP oil treatment in my '83 Chero.

I am not sure if the PO put roller or flat tappet lifters in the engine so I err on the side of caution and put STP in there for the ZDDP.

Every other oil change I use a bottle of B12 Chem Tool in the oil to flush all the deposits out of the engine.
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  #130  
Old 06-05-2012, 05:10 AM
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cma cma is offline
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i have to buy actual the oil for my Mercedes, and i am thinking about, if i take the same one for the Chief....

Mobil 1 New Life 0W40!

http://www.mobil1.de/produkte/new-life-0w-40.aspx
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Markus!

Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

Note: Everyone has a plan until they get punched in the face. - Mike Tyson

Cherokee Chief Laredo, 360 cui, selec trac, black, 12/1982

Picture story:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1019823...eat=directlink
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  #131  
Old 06-05-2012, 07:06 PM
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247pia 247pia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cma
i have to buy actual the oil for my Mercedes, and i am thinking about, if i take the same one for the Chief....

Mobil 1 New Life 0W40!

http://www.mobil1.de/produkte/new-life-0w-40.aspx

That link is not in English
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  #132  
Old 06-05-2012, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 247pia
That link is not in English

Nope I believe it is German. I used Bablefish to translate.
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Rebuilt AMC 360
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  #133  
Old 06-19-2012, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert cowan
here in tn personally i prefer straight weight oils especially now since 99% of all oils has been modified to be politically correct. I like zinc in my oil so I run valvoline racing oil straight 50 in hot summer months and 20 to 30 weight in winter months depending on temp outside.
bob

Valvoline race oil still has zinc?
What about STP, does it?

I've switched to the 5-40 Synthetic Rotella, that I use in my Dodge\Cummins
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1976 Cherokee Chief 360\4-spd(soon to be auto\ Q-trac)
1977 CJ5 "Lulu"
360\5-SPEED GRANNY\DANA300\ DANA 44s
DETROIT \POWERLOCK 4.10
37" tires, and LOTS other stuff
77 J-10 401\Q trac "Thadeus"
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  #134  
Old 06-19-2012, 01:11 PM
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scorge30 scorge30 is offline
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I believe STP has zink in it, but it also has parafin wax which most people hate as it does tend to "gunk" your engine.

I think Zep makes a product that is pretty much straight zink but does not have the parafin wax like STP, Motor Honey, and many other oil additives that have zink in them.

Oil additives in the after market is big business, so some of the manufacturers are cagey about what the product contains.

If you are running flat tappets the zink helps lubricate the metal so it slides easier. One problem with the AMC engines like my 360 in my Chero is at high RPM the rear bearings can get starved for oil.

Tossing some zink in the oil helps those flat tappet lifters not eat the crank lobes. I've seen some AMC cam lobes fairly well dished by the lifters.

The parafin wax makes the oil stickier and raises your oil pressure, and may help the oil stick to the parts.

If your FSJ is your daily driver or you drive it enough to warm it up completely the parafin wax does not seem to be too bad of a nuisance in the engine.

When I change my oil every other time I use one of those 5 minute oil change bottles from O'reilies, Auto Zone, etc. It seems to do a pretty decent job of getting all the gunk out of the engine.

If your Jeep is a weekend toy that rarely gets up to temp, then the parafin wax can gunk on things and seems to "fall" out of solution and break down.

I have heard of folks that live in hot climates like the southern states and desert countries like Bahrain have trouble with parafin wax in STP baking on to the engine but I have never seen it.

The PO rebuilt (or had someone rebuild) the engine in my Chero just before I bought it, but did not know if they put flat tappet or milled the heads to take roller lifters.

So to be on the safe side until I get it apart to look at the lifters, I am putting something with zink in my engine.
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  #135  
Old 06-21-2012, 04:47 AM
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I buy whatever is on sale wherever I happen to be, but try to use a 20w50 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. Every other oil change I put one quart of Lucas oil in (that really sticky stuff) I know some people hate it and have their reasons, but I bought a jeep with 375,000 miles on it and thats what the PO did its whole life, so I continued to do it until 408,000 when I sold it. It was the origianal build, did not leak, did not burn oil, and had perfect pressure. I still pass that Jeep every month or so... I always say as long as its slipery and clean it will do its job.
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  #136  
Old 06-21-2012, 07:53 AM
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lobes

Ive seen several with lobes flattened, so I advise you to definitely use something along with "whatevers on sale".
The lobes that get it worst seem be close to the center cam bearing, where the block casting has the least amount of place for drain back to run on the lobes. I added more holes here, when I built my 401, as well as adding the pipe to increase rear bearing oiling. (u builders know that trick, with pipe threads and fittings)

Anyone heard OF "Z-ALT" motor oils? Its advertised as a zinc type oil, for muscle car owners, and old flat tappet owners. Especially TRUE flat tappet guys (solid lifters, like my Studebaker V8s)
Its available in 10-30 and 20-50. THey have 10-30 here in stock
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1976 Cherokee Chief 360\4-spd(soon to be auto\ Q-trac)
1977 CJ5 "Lulu"
360\5-SPEED GRANNY\DANA300\ DANA 44s
DETROIT \POWERLOCK 4.10
37" tires, and LOTS other stuff
77 J-10 401\Q trac "Thadeus"
64 Stude Avanti 289 R2---ALIVE!
91 Dodge W350 5.9 Cummins
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  #137  
Old 06-21-2012, 12:45 PM
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I've heard of the "Z-ALT" motor oils. I have seen some ads for it on Power Block TV on Spike and other shows specializing in older vehicles that need zinc in the oil.

I bought my '83 Chero from a 17 YO kid who thought it was a Wagoneer because someone put a Waggy tail gate and doors on it.

The kid PO rebuilt the engine, and upped the compression to just below 9-1 but I got a blank look when I asked about roller cams and oiling modifications.

The kid PO put the rebuilt slightly hopped-up engine with an Eddy 4 barrel carb and Eddy intake and romped on the tired tranny which he did not rebuild. The old tired tranny could not take the romping the kid dished on it and blew so I got the Chero for a song.

So I am betting that the 360 in my Chero has flat cams and no oiling mods. I am tempted to tear it down to the long block and drill larger return holes in the middle galley and put in the oil bypass line to increase rear bearing oiling as mentioned by Jeepguyp.

Until I can tear the AMC 360 down to look at its guts, I keep my rpms below 4k, and have put STP in the oil. I've had my Chero over a year now and still have not put more than 300 miles on it so I've only done one oil change so far.
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  #138  
Old 07-13-2012, 11:33 PM
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Out in the Bushes Out in the Bushes is offline
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Diesel Oil

Rotella T 15/40 right now

Have run diesel oils (preferred) ever since I was a wee lad & never had any issues (to the contrary, they run a little cooler & quieter)

If I don't care for the vehicle, then I just put in whatever's on sale
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  #139  
Old 07-23-2012, 02:27 PM
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Tinkerjeep Tinkerjeep is offline
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Penz 5/20 in the winter where it gets down to -20F...
Penz 10/30 in the summer where it gets around 100F.

Did run 30w synth (Q-state or Mob 1 -can't remember now -been 10 years) for a while...$8.00 a qt is too expensive for my leaking and burning oil issues.
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  #140  
Old 07-23-2012, 07:45 PM
rocklaurence rocklaurence is offline
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I purchased Diesel rated motor oil today for my rig (15-40w). It has simular ratings as the gas motor oils. Is there any reason not to used the diesel oil in a gas motor? I know that there are additives to handle the extra blow by and heat but that should be a good thing and its $3 a gallon cheaper.
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