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View Poll Results: What Viscosity Motor Oil Do You Use?
5W20 3 0.69%
5W30 17 3.92%
10W30 146 33.64%
10W40 134 30.88%
20W50 74 17.05%
SAE 30 Wt 9 2.07%
What ever's on sale 8 1.84%
Not listed 43 9.91%
Voters: 434. You may not vote on this poll

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  #81  
Old 05-16-2011, 02:08 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 247pia
What happens is when the fluid is not changed in an automatic transmission the fluid doesn't do it's job any more of cooling and cleaning. The spools get worn and build up varnish in the worn spots.

I have heard the varnish theory and wondering if it is this varnish or dirt and metal shavings? We have a good example above where the truck did not move after an oil change, but when you consider the amount of pressure and heat generated inside a trany, it seems like nothing can really hang on to the shiny pieces of rotating metal, the transmission line could probably be used for pressure washing.... or is it simply the servo clearance that has execeeded the service limit, could running a thicker oil help?

Inquiring mind here.

And yes I use rotella 15w40 for the last 2 years. The only time I use 10w30 in the warmer month one lifter failed, so I stayed w 10w40 castrol.
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Last edited by letank : 05-16-2011 at 02:10 PM.
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  #82  
Old 05-17-2011, 10:48 AM
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Castrol Edge with Syntec power technology, or something like that. 5W50 and specifically blended for older style engines with the perfect amount of ZDDP (1400 PPM). It's good for all year round. Now, I know that the wider the viscosity gap, the more additives and less base stock oil. But I feel safe.
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  #83  
Old 05-20-2011, 08:45 AM
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Pressure

it seems like everyone puts too much faith in the old pressure gauge. seeing as it is the easiest way to check for flow, it seems the likely gauge to have. but just because you have high pressure doesn't mean that you have a lot of flow. flow is in my mind the most important thing, just because your using heavy weight oil and getting higher pressure, remember it could be because you have a blockage and trying to push heavier oil through that small hole, why do you think high blood pressure is bad in humans? just a thought to keep in mind.
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  #84  
Old 05-20-2011, 09:59 AM
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low pressure+high flow = high pressure+low flow. It's just like electricity. Everyone puts in thick oil at the price of cold start wear. Most engine wear occurs at cold start and warm up, so I tend to lean towards thinner oil to help prevent wear at those critical times. 10W30, 10W40, or 5W50.
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  #85  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:06 AM
joe joe is offline
 
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I agree with most oil threads.
Yes, by all means use motor oil in the engine.
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  #86  
Old 05-23-2011, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heepin2906
...but just because you have high pressure doesn't mean that you have a lot of flow. flow is in my mind the most important thing, just because your using heavy weight oil and getting higher pressure, remember it could be because you have a blockage and trying to push heavier oil through that small hole, why do you think high blood pressure is bad in humans? just a thought to keep in mind.

The day the engine leaves the factory (or a properly done overhaul) the oil pressure is as max'd as it will be and will only decrease from there as bearings wear and passages open up.

There has to be some assumption, and that being there are no oil blockages. If one does have an oil blockage somewhere then no matter what viscosity you use that part is going to have premature bearing failure, and the conversation is moot.

The oil pressure, being a measure of back pressure is an overall indicator of the general wear on bearing surfaces as well as the oil pump itself. The more the bearings (or pump) are worn the greater the passage for oil flow and the less back pressure. If one observes that that oil pressure is lower than desirable its safe to assume that oil flow is not an issue, but the bearing wear factor is. In theory you cannot have too much oil flow, but in practice a lot less is required than one may think.

Because of the basic physics of the matter, increased bearing wear and resulting lowered pressure would necessarily result in increased oil flow.

However, on these old beasts, the oil pump design is infamous for wearing and becoming self-bypassing. This will result in a lower pressure reading. And you can now ask the question: Are the bearings worn and pump OK, or are bearings OK but the pump is worn? The latter is of special concern because now oil flow may in fact be compromised. In this case, a band-aid is to go to heavier viscosity to be on the safe side. Further, higher viscosity oil will increase the wear protection a bit more. This will extend the useful engine life. The only real problem is when someone thinks going to a higher viscosity actually cures anything in the long run and runs the engine to the point of failure and breakage at great inconvenience and expense (i.e. family camping vacation 300 miles from home) instead of doing a pre-emptive overhaul.
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  #87  
Old 06-15-2011, 09:42 PM
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My '83 Chero Pioneer came from the PO with a freshly rebuilt AMC 360 with roller lifters and an RV cam of some sort. When the new engine went back in the PO romped on the Chero (typical kid) and blew the tranny which might have had as much as 149,734 miles on it.

The rebuilt engine has less than 5k miles on it, and has a Edy 4 barrel intake and a Edy 4 barrel carb.

So I had to get the tranny rebuilt again (it was supposedly done last year but no proof) this time using HP parts, with kevlar bands, and a 4 pinon planetary and a Trans Go shift kit.

Not sure what oil the PO used but it looks like Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogleye and needs to be changed. Got a cheap Jiffy Lube filter on it now. Oil is black as night and smells bad.

I usually run 10-40 in my trucks, the RV gets 10-30 as that is what the manual calls for. The Chero has a Milodon pan on it and I am adding a dual remote filter mount and an oil cooler. I plan on using either Valvoline or Castrol 10-40 syn blend with one maybe two STP oil additive bottles.

I might toss a bottle of either Risoline (sp?) or a quart of tranny fluid and change the oil again in 500 miles to help clean the engine out. Not sure its state but the oil looks bad and I want to ensure it gets flushed out. I run a magnet around the filter which is supposed to cut down on wear.

Oil discussions are great as everyone has their own opinion, likes and dislikes. On our family farm my father and grandfather never used anything but Valvoline, Castrol and Rotella.

My wife's DD gets full syn 0w-20 as that is what the manu recommends and it is still under warranty. Lovin her 33 mpg though and oil change every 8,000 miles.
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  #88  
Old 06-17-2011, 06:00 PM
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I think that most of us would agree on what the perfect oil for our engines would be. Something that flows well at cold starts in the winter and is thick enough to maintain an oil wedge between parts in the hottest days of summer. Sounds like a 5W40 to me. We also want something that contains anough zinc and other high pressure anti wear additives to protect our camshafts and piston skirts. Something in the 1200PPM range is the best concentration for this. We also want an oil that protects against wear as much as possible, synthetic is good at that. I've heard all the tales of synthetic making leaks worse, not being compatable with dino oils, etc. I can tell you that when I switched my 123,000 mile motor over to syntho, it didn't leak any worse than it did, ran smoother, ran cooler, and if you mix dino and syntho together in a bowl and stir them up, they mix just fine. Synthetic is dino, it's just highly refined. It's not made of pig eyeballs or anything like that. With that out of the way, the perfect oil for me would be 5W40 classic car formulated synthetic. Castrol offers a 5W50 classic car formulated synthetic called "Edge with Syntec Power technology" It has more zinc in it than what it replaced, which had 1200 PPM! It is API SN, SN is designed to help counter the effects of Ethanol. Somehow Castrol found someway to have a 1200PPM+ SN. I encourage you guys to take a look at it. It's sold at Napa.
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Last edited by FSJunkie : 06-17-2011 at 06:02 PM.
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  #89  
Old 08-08-2011, 07:02 AM
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You want high pressure in an AMC V8. You do not want low pressure and low pressure in a AMC V8 does not equal high flow. You also dont want to run the thinnest oil out there either. Viscosity is related to shear strength so if yu have thin oil the chances of metal on metal contact is greater than thicker oil. The thinner oil is shed faster as well. The large gears and pump body of a AMC V8 oil pump do not like thin oil either. As the oil warms up it thins out like crazy and this makes it harder to pump the correct volume to the bearings. If we had NASCAR oil pumps that were super accurate then thinner oil may be better however most are running pretty std street engine tolerances which wouldnt be as good.

90% of AMC V8s out there would benefit from a good oil filter, 10w30-10w40 in the winter and 15w40 in the summer. Depending on mileage of the motor.

If you really want to make a difference just change you oil regularily. These are classic motors now with the youngest at 20 years old you dont have to involve too much rocket science.
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  #90  
Old 08-30-2011, 06:27 PM
robert cowan robert cowan is offline
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i run straight weight valvoline 40 weight in summer and 30 in winter since they took the zinc out of regular engine oil. valvoline race oil still has zinc. also when its real hot here i run 50 weight too.
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  #91  
Old 08-30-2011, 09:56 PM
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for me

20W 50 Synthetic
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  #92  
Old 09-03-2011, 06:34 AM
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Mobil 1 10-W30.
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  #93  
Old 01-08-2012, 03:01 AM
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the manual that comes with the jeep says 5w 30 when cold, and 10w30 when hot so that's what I do...
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  #94  
Old 01-08-2012, 06:50 AM
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Talking Great Googley Moogley!

Simply put...there's no or little zinc in new car conventional oils per EPA ...your old car needs the zinc it was designed for (extra lube). The diesel Oils still have some last I heard so thats why guys use those. I heard that Castrol off road bike oil has some zinc yet.

New Synthetic oils are superior to conventional oils and these days there is not that big a price differential..especially considering you leave them in much longer...I go one year or 10,000 miles. The added bonus is that they are also highly detergent.

I went to great lengths to see that my motor is tight and my pump is fresh so I have great pressure. The new cars want 5-20w (ford), it gets into every little nook and cranny. So if your motor is not tight it will be a little leakier especially with the detergent.

I've heard people swear that synthetic oils will arrest almost all wear on moving parts, thin oils increase milage, get to where they need to be fast on start-up. So in my mind I have frozen my 360's wear at 140,000 miles. I will probably do a few short milage oil changes if it looks like the detergent is deslugging the motor in a big way. Just my way of thinking...there is a good website from engineers about oil research. Presently running mobil 1 ...(5-30)...75psi cold 60psi warm running and 40 psi at idle with a rebuilt pump last week before 20psi less across the board.






Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jeep4me
Never ending discussion on oil, I LOVE IT! Its always good to hear what you can about oil.

In my 911 I use 10 quarts of royal purple 20w50 synthetic. I truly believe in synthetic. I am also a pilot and I trust synthetic in aircraft thus my life.

When it come to weight it just depends on so many other things such as,
mileage on engine
Heat/average temperature in your area
Average trip length
Frequency your willing to change oil.

Personally my rebuilt engine required straight 20 weight break in oil then 20w50. The engine builder recomended this.

Personally, in Texas, i think 20w50 syn or dino is prolly the best to use. I also think if money is no object I would also use an oil cooler.

additives are great, I have not heard of adding zinc. I certainly cant hurt, but as with any oil arguements the end result is in time and mileage. I am not certain this board or users have been able to rack up enough miles with a certain brand of oil to actually see or make a call on whats best.

I have seen where the old oil additive, ash, has clogged up oil passages.
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Last edited by svining : 01-08-2012 at 07:04 AM.
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  #95  
Old 01-08-2012, 07:13 AM
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zinc

thats right. NO MORE ZINC in Rotella or other diesel oils. Mopar reformulated...cats on Cummins now. so I use synthetic Rot. in my Cummins....and either that or Mobil 15-50 syn. in my AMC engines. I think the syn. benefits make up for lack o zinc, so I dont slowly eat the camshaft. I have a guy here who sells "muscle car oil"...for older flat tappets like our V8s. conventional.oil...with zync already there. My Dad was getting it for the Avanti, but I talked him into Synthetics
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  #96  
Old 01-10-2012, 12:49 AM
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STP for small engines, in the Red bottle has ZDDP in it still. Also O'Riellies oil addative still has ZDDP. Or you can go for $7 qt Bradd Penn which is still at around 1400PPM ZDDP
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  #97  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:20 AM
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So, if we're supposed to have ZDDP in our old AMCs, what are we supposed to do? Or is it zinc we're supposed to have? Where do we get it? And why is it important?
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  #98  
Old 01-10-2012, 01:18 PM
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ZDDP, Zinc, Leaded Gas, Ash, are all extra lubricant additives in fuel and Oil. Synthetics are slipperier, stick to parts better (sheeting) etc. Forget the old Conventional Oils, they wouldn't have needed those additives if they lubricated all that well.

Mercedes Recommends mobil 1 at 10,000 mile increments. As far as what the shop manual recommends....my shop manual is 30 years old and Synthetic Oil wasn't around then. Like someone said...its backward compatible and exceeds original specs. Try buying Dexron that my manual recommends...its Dexron/mercron lll/lV now and exceeds those old specs, and is backward compatible.

My waggie is worth more then a Mercedes...just ask Marneus. lol and it gets Mobil 1....could I get paid for this ad?



Quote:
Originally Posted by rreed
So, if we're supposed to have ZDDP in our old AMCs, what are we supposed to do? Or is it zinc we're supposed to have? Where do we get it? And why is it important?
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  #99  
Old 01-10-2012, 10:48 PM
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rebuilt 258

I have just installed a rebuilt barn find motor, it took some time getting all those Mud-dobbers out of every open bolt hole & tube, It was rebuilt about 10 years ago and was set aside for a 360 swap. There was about a cup of water (condensate) in oil pan and a few tablespoons in each piston, but a good prelube saved the walls. I no longer have to worry about touching the back of the truck, or wiping the "Mosquito ControL" tags off tailgate.
I'm going synthetic after break-in and was wondering about the 'Oil Filter Magnets' I have seen advertised. and what about the PTFE Teflon Holy Grail of additives. are they DOA?
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Old 01-11-2012, 06:54 AM
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90 weight gear oil

I use straight 90 weight gear oil so it will stop leaking !!!!!
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