no start dead silence

[westcoastflea]

trying to troubleshoot 84 grand wagoneer no start issue

using a test light with the key in the ON position

NO power at blue wire at the ignition switch

NO power blue wire at the solenoid end

power at light green wire going to module

power at red wire solenoid end

coil has power both - and +

plug wire coming out of coil has spark

if i bypass solenoid and put power to starter it works

wont start in neutral

no spark with screwdriver across solenoid (brand new just purchased )
replacing new solenoid from last fall

when probing with test light under dash in the switch at right hand side of steering column ( black wire) horn will sound?
also small round metal cylinder near fuse box( has 2? wires plugged into it) feels hot
any ideas??





















tyh - =

[westcoastflea]

i guess to narrow it down

where is the blue wire on the ignition switch under column get its power?

[csuengr]

Blue wire goes directly to ignition switch.

Use this link: http://oljeep.com/gw/elec/GW_wiring.html

[Overkill SC]

try this

trying to troubleshoot 84 grand wagoneer no start issue

using a test light with the key in the ON position

NO power at blue wire at the ignition switch

NO power blue wire at the solenoid end

power at light green wire going to module

power at red wire solenoid end

coil has power both - and +

plug wire coming out of coil has spark

if i bypass solenoid and put power to starter it works

wont start in neutral

no spark with screwdriver across solenoid (brand new just purchased )
replacing new solenoid from last fall

when probing with test light under dash in the switch at right hand side of steering column ( black wire) horn will sound?
also small round metal cylinder near fuse box( has 2? wires plugged into it) feels hot
any ideas??


tyh - =

OK, do you mean no start or no crank? Big difference.

The blue wire at the solenoid will only have power when the key is in the Start position, not the run position. Hook your test light to the blue wire at the solenoid. If it comes on when key moves to the start position, ignition switch is good. If it doesn't come on, you have an ignition switch or problem or other issue. If you have power but it won't crank, problem is with the starter, the solenoid or the cables.

You say the coil wire has spark, when cranking?

No idea on your last two issues.

[westcoastflea]

thanks so much for replying
after more searching what ive found is that i have power on all wires at ignition switch power goes into ignition module BUT doesnt come out of it
whether im in start or run
so im guessing ignition module is bad?
maybe ?

[westcoastflea]

just came in from looking at it again

2 plugs come from fuse box to connect to plugs coming out of ignition module
1 plug is 2 prong
one is 4 prong

im finding power on the 2 prong red wire when key is on
power on blue wire 2 prong when in start position

4 prong plug
light green wire has power

when i have the 2 prong plug coming from ignition module plugged into 2 plug coming from fuse box

then test the 4 plug coming out of the ignition module (not plugged into 4 prong from fuse box )
all i get on the spades in the 4 prong plug is a very faint light on the spades connecting to the violet and green

on coil i get power on + on - i get just a very very faint light

also when i turn the key i get nothing at all just silence
does this make it any clearer?

[Overkill SC]

So it won't crank. If I understand what you're saying.

You have to get it cranking, then worry about the ignition.

If you run a jumper from the battery + terminal to the terminal with the blue wire on the solenoid, it should crank. If it doesn't solenoid is bad or not grounded, cables are bad, or starter is bad.

If it does crank, you have to figure out why you aren't getting power on the blue wire when trying to crank.

[westcoastflea]

hi
i can put power to the starter on the starter side of solenoid and it turns over
i replaced the solenoid still no start

i have spark at the end of the wire that connects coil to distributor


is power supposed to come out the 4 prong plug on module and travel to different areas to start jeep?

on the 4 prong module plug i have power going into the module on green wire and a very very faint light shows on test light on the violet and green spade connectors on the 4 prong plug coming out of the module
i can read the wiring diagrams etc but cant figure out the actual start process
WHAT should have power WHEN
and
WHERE it comes from once the key is turned

ive scrolled through many many posts on here and am picking up bits and pieces but dont have the whole starting process outlined

if i knew what it was i think i could figure out where the process is being interrupted

[Overkill SC]

The blue wire at the solenoid will only have power when the key is in the Start position, not the run position. Hook your test light to the blue wire at the solenoid. If it comes on when key moves to the start position, ignition switch is good. If it doesn't come on, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem or other issue. If you have power but it won't crank, problem is with the starter, the solenoid or the cables.

The ignition modules, coil and distributor have nothing to do with the cranking circuit. Stop looking there.

Go check for power at the solenoid blue wire when turning your ignition key to start. You have to get it cranking.

Once you can crank the engine over by using the ignition switch, if it won!t fire and run, then you start looking at the modules, coil, fuel, etc.

[westcoastflea]

hi yes
i have power at the blue wire on solenoid with the key turned to the start position

also wires from distributor to module are old cracked would like to replace but not sure what im looking for or if i can buy what i need ?

also should the coil be grounded? or is it grounded thru the distributor?

[westcoastflea]

i have replaced the solenoid and the ignition module

[Overkill SC]

If you have power at the blue wire on the solenoid, and the starter is good. You should be able to crank the engine from the key. Can you post a pic?

If you can crank the engine, do you have spark at the plug wires?

I'd have to study the wire diagrams to help with your module questions. I only have experience up to 79. Not sure what has changed.

[westcoastflea]

electrical issue no start ??

interesting developments
ive found that the fuse for dome lamp interior horn hood lamp courtesy lamps etc
#4 on the fuse box is blown and is blowing both literally and figuratively

i redid wiring on coil to module
and
distributor to module today
not quite done

im finding that with the key in run position if i put a test light into the brown wire (one of 3) running to distributor from module on the module end it causes the coil to spark

also when reconnecting positive to battery it causes coil to spark

coil doesnt have to be connected to the distributor for this to happen

also when checking the wiring under steering column i found that when i put the test light probe into the black and white wire on the multifunction ? switch ? on the side of the steering column the horn beeps

do i have a ground issue somewhere in the wiring on the #4 fuse keeping me from starting? would the horn beep because my test light is grounding it?


as i said before i have power to blue on solenoid in start position
power to red on coil
test light will blink weakly when i check the green wire on coil when putting key in start position both at the module end and at the coil end testlight blinks every time i turn the key

why is my coil sparking?

trying to attach pics
one of module connections
one of alternator did i put wires back in right place ?
one of distributor
one of the multifunction ?

[Overkill SC]

It's hard to answer the specific questions without being there. But no one else is chiming in so I'll keep replying. Want to help but you have to answer one question.

Can you crank the engine over using the key?

You said if you jumper over the solenoid, it cranks. You said you have power on the blue wire in start position. You said the solenoid is new. So you should be able to crank it. Post a pic showing your solenoid.

If not, the only thing I can think of is that you have poor ground from the body to the battery. This is a common problem. There should be a large ground wire on one of the motor mounts going from the frame side to the block side. There should be a wire going from the ground side of the battery directly to the body somewhere. There might be a ground strap from the rear of the head or transmission bell housing up to the firewall. It doesn't really matter where they are, as long as you have the engine and the body connected to the battery ground. A missing ground will cause all sorts of weird stuff to happen.

I looked at the wiring diagrams that were linked earlier. They aren't complete so it is hard to trace anything. But you can see that the coil negative grounds through the ignition module. So sparking when grounding this through a test light is normal.

[westcoastflea]

hi
so glad you are sticking with me on this
im sending along a pic of solenoid as you requested

also pics of little thingie measuring the coil resistance? not sure im reading it right or doing it right
actually took pics because im really bad at using these

i followed directions placing pointer at 00 at very left to start.

put probes together pointer went all the way to the right past the 0

measured coil 2 different ways cap off measured with red probe on +terminal and black probe on the other terminal

then measured with red probe in middle of coil black probe on the - terminal on left of coil (hidden by my hand)

measurements dont seem right?
the thing is set at 1k ohms as you can see in the pic
im seeing 4 1/2 on the secondary resistance test and 5 on the primary resistance test if im reading this right (too many scales numbers and dials for me ) hence pics
of course the guy at napa brought up that my engine may have seized?
i drained the battery last night forget to unplug positive on battery
so hoping that one of my battery chargers that blew up trying to charge my last dead battery will at least let household current flow thru to the battery
thanks again for all your help
are you by any chance a collector of any sort of ephemera?