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  #1  
Old 08-01-2019, 03:58 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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CS144 cooling?

This week my CS144 died after about 75 miles of driving. I have not pulled it out yet or taken pictures (will tonight) so bear with me (some assumptions in here)

I drove it Monday and noticed my voltmeter slowly dropping. By the time my truck died, I pulled over to check the Alt and it was SCALDING HOT. I do have an incandescent light on the exciter line.

I suspect I burned it up because the back of the alternator is very close to #2's header tube. I read somewhere that CS144's, with a plastic fan like mine, get their cooling air from the back. If that is the case, it is taking VERY hot header air and pumping into the case to "cool" itself. I plan to make a heat shield for the alternator, wrap #2's primary tube, and make a duct to get cooler air to the back of the Alt.

Does anyone know for sure that CS144's get the cooling air from the back? Should I pipe the cooler air to the front? Tonight when I get home, I'll take some pics and show what I am talking about and plan to take my alt to McParts to get checked.
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2019, 10:43 PM
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letank letank is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Does anyone know for sure that CS144's get the cooling air from the back? Should I pipe the cooler air to the front? Tonight when I get home, I'll take some pics and show what I am talking about and plan to take my alt to McParts to get checked.




Most alternator for our vintage production models get the cooling from the back. Only recently did the alternators are being cooled from upfront , it is still behind the radiator.


Some of the bimmers like the E32 have a cowl with a duct to channel air from the air dam to the back of the alternator. Later ones even have a liquid cooling system...


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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #3  
Old 08-02-2019, 03:03 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
Most alternator for our vintage production models get the cooling from the back. Only recently did the alternators are being cooled from upfront , it is still behind the radiator.

Some of the bimmers like the E32 have a cowl with a duct to channel air from the air dam to the back of the alternator. Later ones even have a liquid cooling system...
Copy that. That duct is kind of what I was thinking of. I don't think i will make the banjo looking end but I plan to route a duct from behind the grill, pointing at the back of the alt.
****************
I guess it's not as close as I thought. here it is installed. You'll notice the plastic conduit covering my oil pressure sensor wire has also melted.


Getting it out sucked. I hate this stupid serpentine kit. it's one of my biggest regrets I have on my ride. I had to unbolt the alt, loosen the mount, lower the alt down (not easy), set it on the axle between the frame rail and steering linkage, jack up the passenger side, fish it over the pumpkin, and lower down the driver side.

Saw this right away:


That dude got HOT!!!

Used my fluke and found that center diode was indeed toasted (shorted both ways). I ordered a new rectifier for a 200amp CS144. Mine is a 140 amp unit so it should be good overkill and will hopefully last longer. I still plan to wrap my header tube and add the cooling duct.
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Old 08-02-2019, 03:15 PM
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letank letank is offline
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check on ebay for better picts, either 740, 735 for the 90-98 and the 540 until 99 which have a different cowl.



I tried to look at them in the junkyard, but the alt is a real bear to remove because most of the PS hoses leak oil all over the area, the wiring is really tight.... and you have to remove the fan.... and too many steps for test purposes, the part is not that expensive around $30 on the specialty sites


Otherwise this is a lot of engine heat, may be the engine is too lean giving you very hot exhaust gas
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74 wag, 349Kmiles on original ticker/trany, except for the rust. Will it make it to the next get together without a rebuilt? Status: needs a new body.
85 Gwag, 226 Kmiles. $250 FSJ test lab since 02, that refuses to give up but still leaks.

See Ouray 2013, Engine bits and Fuel and brake lines, and Body work
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  #5  
Old 08-02-2019, 03:27 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
check on ebay for better picts, either 740, 735 for the 90-98 and the 540 until 99 which have a different cowl.

I tried to look at them in the junkyard, but the alt is a real bear to remove because most of the PS hoses leak oil all over the area, the wiring is really tight.... and you have to remove the fan.... and too many steps for test purposes, the part is not that expensive around $30 on the specialty sites
Ok, copy that. Will do.
Quote:
Originally Posted by letank
Otherwise this is a lot of engine heat, may be the engine is too lean giving you very hot exhaust gas
Yeah, you are right
I think there may be a couple issues at play here. I think I need to ground the back half of the alt better, I think there is a lot of heat, and I think that rectifier is a cheapnese POS. I noticed when I was driving it home, the engine was acting pretty wonky (high idle, popping when letting go of the throttle) and I think that is because as the voltage the battery was providing was dropping, reference voltages were dropping to the computer and it's sensors, too, throwing them off. It very well could have been getting leaner and leaner as the voltage dropped, or it could be lean just because I am a NEWB at tuning and jacked it up. Gotta fix the alt, before I can figure out if I am lean. I have new plugs waiting to go in, too. We'll see what they look like when they get swapped.
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2019, 11:50 AM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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I installed my new beefy rectifier and was about to install the alt in my truck when a little voice in my head said "You should go have it tested before you install it".
Check out my old rectifier. It just fell apart in my hand when I took it out.



So I did. And it failed. Twice. At 2 different stores (for a total of 4 attempted tests)

When they tested it, the test they run on the stand had 3 segments. I couldn't see them exactly but I think they were:
1) Rectifier test
2) Regulator test
3) LED test(?)
Anywho, it failed all 3 segments on all 4 attempts. Anyone familiar/know what I am talking about?

I assume since I failed all 3 tests, that means I also torched my regulator. Would a bad regulator cause me to fail all 3 tests? I assume it would... I am already researching to buy a better regulator. Should I look into anything else? Are there other tests to run? Would a bad regulator lead to torching my rectifier or vice versa?

Also, back to my original post, when I installed this alt in my super Deeduper stupid serpentine kit, I had to add a spacer between the fan and the bearing to get the pulley to line up with the rest of the pulleys. That spacer is about 1/8" thick. So my fan sits about 1/8" farther from the alt body than designed. would you guys think that is an issue?
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  #7  
Old 08-16-2019, 03:01 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Installed my new Transpo HD Regulator Wednesday, took it to McParts on Thursday and passed all 3 tests. I have a nifty home made head shield but I am going to just wrap the header tube for now and see if they makes a difference. More to follow.
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