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Old 03-29-2019, 11:03 AM
rang-a-stang's Avatar
rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Thoughts on Motor Honey?

Don't laugh at me. Well, I guess you can, how would I know?

Background:
My 401 is up and running after my rebuild but my oil pressure is not high enough for my liking. I am going to re-do my oil pump in the coming weeks but I want to drive my rig in the meantime.

Situation:
All new bearings, rings, seals, lifters, and cam. Fresh oil (conventional 10W-40 with ZDDP additive) and fresh filter (Baldwin B9). Using my stock gauge (mechanical gauge is on the way) I have about 45PSI cold cruising and 20PSI at hot cruising. Hot idle is barely 10PSI.

Question:
For discussion sake, I have hear Lucas Oil Stabilizer is similar so that is on the table, too. I used Motor Honey back when I was in high school 25 years ago to raise oil pressure in my tired old VW engine and it worked great.

What do you guys think of me adding this stuff to my oil to temporarily raise my oil pressure?
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  #2  
Old 03-29-2019, 11:17 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Why not use heavier oil like 20-50 rather than trying to thicken the 10-40
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  #3  
Old 03-29-2019, 11:24 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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Do NOT use any crap like that! Motor Honey or Lucas etc.

Can't base this on fact but being so thick I would worry greatly about lack of oil on cold start to bearings.
It's a band-aid for worn out motors to quiet them down.
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:06 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Location: PNWet, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rang-a-stang
Background:
My 401 is up and running after my rebuild but my oil pressure is not high enough for my liking. I am going to re-do my oil pump in the coming weeks but I want to drive my rig in the meantime.
What oil press you getting at idle and at road speed? These are not high oil pressure motors. As-in don't require big pressure numbers. What you using to read oil press, the stock elec gauge or after market mech? Is your 401 overbored within factory recommended specs? When experiencing your not happy with oil pressure what's the temp gauge reading?
I'm not a fan of many aftermarket oil additives. Just cause you toss in some oil thickening goop to make the gauge read better does not guarantee the oil w/goop is actually getting into the bearings. Oil isn't designed to just coat bearing surfaces to reduce friction/heat. It needs to "flow though/past" the bearing surfaces and remove the heat generated. Never used Motor Honey so don't know if it actually blends well with modern multi-vis oils to help or hinder??? It may just give you a false sense of security via the oil gauge. I dunno? If you decide to try it, do keep a good eye on your coolant temp gauge. It'll may give you a clue if the goop is helping or hindering. I do remember way back (60's-70's) folks ran STP/Motor Honey etc but that was back in the straight weight oil days, not multi-vis oils. If your bearing specs and oil pump specs are within factory spec you shouldn't need to run crazy thick oil or added goop. I'm curios...how many miles on the motor before rebuild and when you did your rebuild did you include new cam "AND" cam bearings? Worn cam bearings and main bearings will result in low oil pressure. If you decide to use the goop and your temp gauge is reading ok you're prolly not doing any harm. On the other hand factory FSJ gauges are for entertainment value only. Even with factory gauges on your pushrod motor you should be getting at least 10 PSI per 1000 RPM. If less than that you got a problem and it ain't the oil. Modern "brand name" oil is pretty darn good stuff and doesn't need user installed additives.
Best of luck.
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Old 03-29-2019, 04:03 PM
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brielly brielly is offline
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First, I wouldn't trust your gauge to be accurate. Your pressure may be just fine. If it would make you feel better you can certainly add motor honey, STP or lucas but without a mechanical guage you're just guessing and may not need to do anything.
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  #6  
Old 03-31-2019, 01:06 AM
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FSJunkie FSJunkie is offline
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Verify that pressure is accurate before you freak out.

I ignore stock electric oil pressure gauges so much that it actually got me in trouble.

I didn't believe the gauge when it slowly worked it's way down to zero then stayed at zero....in the span of five minutes....while I was driving 75 MPH up I-135. I thought the gauge, which had a history of not reading properly, was failing. I kept driving. The engine seemed fine by all other indications.

It had no main bearings by the time I came to a stop at the end of the off ramp. I spent the rest of that vacation towing my dead classic car 1200 miles home behind a U-haul van.

Wasn't an AMC or an AMC engine.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:41 AM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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Thicker oil will decrease flow. Yes, it will give good gauge, since the pressure port is right at the pumps exit, but you are doing nothing to improve actual oil delivery. You are actually making it worse in most cases.

The big diesels have gone from 15w40 to 10w30 over the ast 10 years. All the old timers get all nervous over that “thinner” oil, and it does lower pressure a bit,but samples come back better than the old oil, due to faster flow.
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Old 04-01-2019, 09:55 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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modern oil is good stuff and way better than back in the day.
10w-30 is all you should need.
15w-40 or 20w-50 is way too thick/heavy imho it isn't a race car
additives like lucas or motor honey are a band-aid or snake oil, I don't use them

I'm actually debating switching to 5w-30, now that it's warmer I get almost 70 psi w/ 10w-30
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  #9  
Old 04-01-2019, 02:32 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ristow
Thicker oil will decrease flow. Yes, it will give good gauge, since the pressure port is right at the pumps exit, but you are doing nothing to improve actual oil delivery. You are actually making it worse in most cases.

If he is bypassing oil in the pump itself due to wear, thicker oil should increase pressure, and therefore flow, in the whole system.

If pressure at the gauge is higher it's higher throughout the system.
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