Has anyone ever lowered the spring mounting locations on the rear to get more lift without physically mounting them under the frame? I was originally going to go completely inboarded under the frame but after looking it over, my factory tow hitch would be in the way. So, what about lowering either the factory mounts or building new mounts a few inches down? It would keep the springs spread out wider on the axle then a frame under setup, it would keep the spring pads in the stock spot on the axle and keep the shackle in a factory style rather than going flipped. The gas tank skid shouldn't have to be modified either. Thoughts or photos? Thanks.
Non-Inboarding Rear Spring Lift Idea
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I think that's essentially what a rear shackle flip does (lowers the front/rear endpoints of the rear springs)...
1989 Waggy=360/727/NP229/D44's/8"lift/36's/3.31's
1985 J20=The powertrain donor to my M677. But thinking about resurrecting the carcass as a short wheel base, topless, bobbed J20.
1982 J10 Sportside=360/727/NP208/D44HD+TruTrac/D60+DetroitLocker/4" lift/35's/4.10's
1967 M715=360/T98/NP205/38"XL/5.87's
1964 M677=360/727/NP208 build in process
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Originally posted by dblankenbakerI think that's essentially what a rear shackle flip does (lowers the front/rear endpoints of the rear springs)...
http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-842.htmPatrick
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Sure, you can build a mount to lower the original brackets. But why? It limits flex. and is going to take much more time to fabricate then flipping the shackle.Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's
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Many moons ago there was a member in New Mexico who got rid of his rear shackles all together and replaced them with some crazy tubular slider gizmos.
I too am confused as to why you want to keep your shackles pointing up. Don't get my wrong I'm not saying its bad, but it doesn't seem like it would be worth the hassle of relocating it just to keep the same orientation...2012 Winner of the Prestigious Ouray Cast Iron Butt Award
79 J-10 - The Money Badger!
304/T18/D20/D44s
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although not on a jeep frame, i did a shackle flip on the chevy frame i put under my Gladiator body, cheap lift, stock shackles, kept my carrying/towing capacity and has better flex due to being a flatter spring than a lift spring. its just makes sense due to ease of installation, cost and function.
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I may not end up going this route but was just curious if others had. There is the never ending debate with the compression vs. tension style the shackle sits in. I have read mixed results with flipping the shackle, mostly loss of load capacity for towing as well as more of a sway or body roll feeling when driving down the road.
I'm in the process of fitting 38's on the widetrac in the rear and am trying to figure out my lift combo to get there. Fenders are in too good of shape to cut up so they are staying. I know I can't inboard the springs due to the tow hitch in the way but I need roughly 7" - 8" total.Patrick
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Once I get my leaf spring mounts situated I will be going with a shackle flip as well rather than keep them in a stock orientation for the same reason as 68_Gladiator. I'd much rather keep a flatter spring than a huge arch. You can get plenty of lift by fabbing up a mount that suits your needs perfectly. Just my .02Originally posted by will eKeep in mind. Getting old is easy. Being old is hard.
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M715s derive their lift from lowered spring mounting points, and their frames aren't much different from ours. Take a look at M715zone.www.patriotguard.org/ because it does matter.
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Originally posted by RompnI have read mixed results with flipping the shackle, mostly loss of load capacity for towing as well as more of a sway or body roll feeling when driving down the road.
if you really aren't comfortable with the shackle flip, go with 6" springs, 2" block to get the 8" you need. i doubt you will have any wrap with a new and more curved spring (or you could just go with an anti-wrap bar), plus it will feel more stable as they will be firmer springs.
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I did something similar to what you are asking. I used spring hangers from 1980 Chevy 1 ton (k30). Reason: less lift than a shackle flip and more stable. This is for a tow rig and had to inboard to put in the 14 bolt. It would have been just as easy, to remove the stock hanger and place this one on the outside of the frame, although I never checked if that would align.
Last edited by Heimeken; 12-09-2010, 11:07 AM.'85 Grand Wagoneer "Caterpillar"
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Originally posted by AlsChopShopIf you really aren't comfortable with the shackle flip, go with 6" springs, 2" block to get the 8" you need. i doubt you will have any wrap with a new and more curved spring (or you could just go with an anti-wrap bar), plus it will feel more stable as they will be firmer springs.
AlPatrick
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