Non-Inboarding Rear Spring Lift Idea

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  • Rompn
    350 Buick
    • Dec 30, 2000
    • 787

    Non-Inboarding Rear Spring Lift Idea

    Has anyone ever lowered the spring mounting locations on the rear to get more lift without physically mounting them under the frame? I was originally going to go completely inboarded under the frame but after looking it over, my factory tow hitch would be in the way. So, what about lowering either the factory mounts or building new mounts a few inches down? It would keep the springs spread out wider on the axle then a frame under setup, it would keep the spring pads in the stock spot on the axle and keep the shackle in a factory style rather than going flipped. The gas tank skid shouldn't have to be modified either. Thoughts or photos? Thanks.
    Patrick
    INNOVATIVE FABRICATIONS
  • dblankenbaker
    232 I6
    • Oct 30, 2010
    • 82

    #2
    I think that's essentially what a rear shackle flip does (lowers the front/rear endpoints of the rear springs)...
    1989 Waggy=360/727/NP229/D44's/8"lift/36's/3.31's
    1985 J20=The powertrain donor to my M677. But thinking about resurrecting the carcass as a short wheel base, topless, bobbed J20.
    1982 J10 Sportside=360/727/NP208/D44HD+TruTrac/D60+DetroitLocker/4" lift/35's/4.10's
    1967 M715=360/T98/NP205/38"XL/5.87's
    1964 M677=360/727/NP208 build in process

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    • Rompn
      350 Buick
      • Dec 30, 2000
      • 787

      #3
      Originally posted by dblankenbaker
      I think that's essentially what a rear shackle flip does (lowers the front/rear endpoints of the rear springs)...
      http://www.bjsoffroad.com/CartGenie/prod-842.htm
      Right but going with a shackle flip changes the way the shackle functions. I'm looking to keep it the way it is now.
      Patrick
      INNOVATIVE FABRICATIONS

      Comment

      • j20brett
        360 AMC
        • Jul 05, 2006
        • 2963

        #4
        Sure, you can build a mount to lower the original brackets. But why? It limits flex. and is going to take much more time to fabricate then flipping the shackle.
        Kaiser - 1981 J20 115" WB - 5.3l/4l60E/np241c/3-link hp60 spooled/Leafs 14-bolt detroit/5.13's/40's

        Build Thread

        Fight Crime...Shoot Back.

        ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

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        • REDONE
          304 AMC
          • Aug 19, 2002
          • 1752

          #5
          Many moons ago there was a member in New Mexico who got rid of his rear shackles all together and replaced them with some crazy tubular slider gizmos.

          I too am confused as to why you want to keep your shackles pointing up. Don't get my wrong I'm not saying its bad, but it doesn't seem like it would be worth the hassle of relocating it just to keep the same orientation...
          2012 Winner of the Prestigious Ouray Cast Iron Butt Award
          79 J-10 - The Money Badger!
          304/T18/D20/D44s
          What's been did:
          Holley 4160/Ede' S.P.2.P.
          MSD Streetfire based TFI
          Custom-hack gauge cluster
          Razor swap
          Fancy exhaust (Thrush Muffler)
          2 knob tape deck!
          3" homebuilt lift
          Half a hillbilly paint job

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          • #6
            yeah, why not do the shackle flip? there is really no benefit to keeping it stock.

            Al
            79 Cherokee Chief "Kronk" - TBI350/SM465/NP205
            99 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Cummins 24v
            07 Mazdaspeed3 GT - Big turbo, 340whp

            Comment

            • 68_Gladiator
              350 Buick
              • Oct 01, 2007
              • 1165

              #7
              although not on a jeep frame, i did a shackle flip on the chevy frame i put under my Gladiator body, cheap lift, stock shackles, kept my carrying/towing capacity and has better flex due to being a flatter spring than a lift spring. its just makes sense due to ease of installation, cost and function.


              "Go Brow or go home"


              1973 J2000

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              • Rompn
                350 Buick
                • Dec 30, 2000
                • 787

                #8
                I may not end up going this route but was just curious if others had. There is the never ending debate with the compression vs. tension style the shackle sits in. I have read mixed results with flipping the shackle, mostly loss of load capacity for towing as well as more of a sway or body roll feeling when driving down the road.
                I'm in the process of fitting 38's on the widetrac in the rear and am trying to figure out my lift combo to get there. Fenders are in too good of shape to cut up so they are staying. I know I can't inboard the springs due to the tow hitch in the way but I need roughly 7" - 8" total.
                Patrick
                INNOVATIVE FABRICATIONS

                Comment

                • Tigger4X
                  AMC 4 OH! 1
                  • Nov 16, 2001
                  • 4339

                  #9
                  Once I get my leaf spring mounts situated I will be going with a shackle flip as well rather than keep them in a stock orientation for the same reason as 68_Gladiator. I'd much rather keep a flatter spring than a huge arch. You can get plenty of lift by fabbing up a mount that suits your needs perfectly. Just my .02
                  Originally posted by will e
                  Keep in mind. Getting old is easy. Being old is hard.
                  Post #14 ~ http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showt...=1#post1580206

                  Comment

                  • snoopy
                    232 I6
                    • Nov 11, 2004
                    • 183

                    #10
                    M715s derive their lift from lowered spring mounting points, and their frames aren't much different from ours. Take a look at M715zone.
                    www.patriotguard.org/ because it does matter.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rompn
                      I have read mixed results with flipping the shackle, mostly loss of load capacity for towing as well as more of a sway or body roll feeling when driving down the road.
                      the added sway and roll is really only due to the added height of the vehicle. your weight carrying capacity is the same unless you change the springs out. lowering the shackle is going to feel just as top heavy.

                      if you really aren't comfortable with the shackle flip, go with 6" springs, 2" block to get the 8" you need. i doubt you will have any wrap with a new and more curved spring (or you could just go with an anti-wrap bar), plus it will feel more stable as they will be firmer springs.

                      Al
                      79 Cherokee Chief "Kronk" - TBI350/SM465/NP205
                      99 Dodge 2500 4x4 - Cummins 24v
                      07 Mazdaspeed3 GT - Big turbo, 340whp

                      Comment

                      • Heimeken
                        304 AMC
                        • Nov 29, 2000
                        • 1964

                        #12
                        I did something similar to what you are asking. I used spring hangers from 1980 Chevy 1 ton (k30). Reason: less lift than a shackle flip and more stable. This is for a tow rig and had to inboard to put in the 14 bolt. It would have been just as easy, to remove the stock hanger and place this one on the outside of the frame, although I never checked if that would align.

                        Last edited by Heimeken; 12-09-2010, 11:07 AM.
                        '85 Grand Wagoneer "Caterpillar"
                        401, NV4500, 3/4 ton gear

                        '79 Cherokee "The Sandgorgon"
                        One Tons, SOA,T18 on 40's

                        78 J10 "Imoteb"
                        J20 running gear and axles

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                        • Rompn
                          350 Buick
                          • Dec 30, 2000
                          • 787

                          #13
                          Originally posted by AlsChopShop
                          If you really aren't comfortable with the shackle flip, go with 6" springs, 2" block to get the 8" you need. i doubt you will have any wrap with a new and more curved spring (or you could just go with an anti-wrap bar), plus it will feel more stable as they will be firmer springs.

                          Al
                          I'm looking to keep what I have in the rear which is stock springs/shackles as this setup is temporary. Not really looking to purchase much of anything to get the lift so lowering the stock points and possibly adding a small block may get the rear high enough. I may also just leave the stock mounting points, invest in the shackle flip and throw in a small block if need be. How much lift does a shackle flip get on it's own?
                          Patrick
                          INNOVATIVE FABRICATIONS

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