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  #21  
Old 01-08-2018, 06:23 PM
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Kaiserjeeps Kaiserjeeps is offline
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Location: Mooseville Northern Idaho
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Thanks for posting. I was just about to order stuff from Susquehanna motor sports for this. They have nice 40 amp relays for this there. I have the parts for the headlight system already.
The schematic will speed it up some.
Again thanks.
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  #22  
Old 02-18-2018, 10:49 AM
Pillow Pillow is offline
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Thanks Curly for posting the link! Def on my to-d or to-buy list depending.
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  #23  
Old 08-25-2018, 04:43 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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Join Date: May 07, 2016
Location: Folsom, A
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Hey all!

I installed my harness and never got around to actually plugging a window motor into it.

Finally installed my original window motor - it kinda worked slowly for 5-10 seconds then died.

I just assumed the OLD motor was had - couldn't ever get it to move again.

So, I bought a new/refurbished motor, installed it, powered it on, same thing... ran REALLY SLOW/weak (without the window installed, just on the arms) and within 5-10 seconds it died. I removed it from the bracket/arms/gears - plugged it in and tried to run it without any of that stuff - and the motor wouldn't respond at all.

I have a feeling something is wrong with the wiring and it's frying the electric motor.

Any suggestions/ideas??

Here's a photo of the harness/wiring installed without the motor:
I installed the two red wires in terminals 1 and 2 opposite of the blue wires - I'm 99% sure that's correct, but also wondering if that's where I went wrong?


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  #24  
Old 08-26-2018, 09:07 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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What motor are you using the early one, or the later style?

I ask because the early ones have a dedicated ground, the motor polarity is on separate wires. Meaning one wire is up and the other is down...neither is connected to ground!

The newer motors work by reversing polarity on two wires, and do not have a dedicated ground.

If you have it wired/setup for the newer motor, and you're using the older motor it will not work and you'll likely toast the motor.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
1994 Caprice wagon
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  #25  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:33 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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I'm not positive on the motor... the shop gave me one that is meant for a 72 Wagoneer Tailgate window.

But... it could be wrong?

It's a 2 wire motor - I believe some were 3 wires?

But... are you saying that even with 2 wires, it may still matter which wire goes to which post?
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1972 Wagoneer
some really weird previous owner mods
it's an automatic now... boooooo
it's got a 1967 buick 340 - blah

and other weird things I'm working on
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  #26  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:51 PM
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On the early motors only one wire/connection @ time gets 12v+
They do NOT get negative on other wire.
One wire/side is up the other wire/side is down.

The late model motors one wire gets 12v+ and other gets ground.
Reversing the polarity makes the motor go opposite direction.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
1994 Caprice wagon
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  #27  
Old 08-26-2018, 02:56 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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You rock...

So, I am a total noob on this stuff...

How would I go about testing the motor to see what is correct?

And, how do I compare that against the wiring in this harness?

Thanks!
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1972 Wagoneer
some really weird previous owner mods
it's an automatic now... boooooo
it's got a 1967 buick 340 - blah

and other weird things I'm working on
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  #28  
Old 08-26-2018, 03:37 PM
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post pic motor? showing wire connection terminals.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
1994 Caprice wagon
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  #29  
Old 08-26-2018, 03:55 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Early motors are three wire, with one wire permanently grounded, no?

Should be obvious which he has.
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  #30  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:41 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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just realized the photo I have is of the original motor, I'm waiting for the replacement from the store. Should have it by tomorrow.
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1972 Wagoneer
some really weird previous owner mods
it's an automatic now... boooooo
it's got a 1967 buick 340 - blah

and other weird things I'm working on
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  #31  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:43 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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In your post on the other site I speculated that the blues went to the safety switch. I now think that's incorrect.

After looking at a relay and that close up picher I think the blues go to relay pins 30 which would be the motor leads. Either the two on a two wire motor or the up and down on a three wire.

Gonna have to study the pics more. To try and understand what's going on with your motor.

Also, where does the safety switch connect? Maybe the connector in the red wire? Looks like it feeds the switches. Unmate it and connect to the switch in series if you have it; leave the connector mated as is if you don't?
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #32  
Old 08-26-2018, 04:45 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Is your original three wire or two?
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #33  
Old 08-26-2018, 05:27 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
In your post on the other site I speculated that the blues went to the safety switch. I now think that's incorrect.
My understanding when installing this was the blue wires were what I needed to send out to the window motor to power it - and that it didn't matter which wire went to which terminal.

I think Serehill had this whole thing setup as he described that if "up" went down, you could just switch the two wires from one terminal to the other.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SJTD
Also, where does the safety switch connect? Maybe the connector in the red wire? Looks like it feeds the switches. Unmate it and connect to the switch in series if you have it; leave the connector mated as is if you don't?
this image shows the two red wires that I understand run to the safety switch - serehill in his directions says you don't have to use the safety switch and you can leave these two wires like this. (again, I could be misunderstanding)



My motor - both original and replacement are two wire motors.
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1972 Wagoneer
some really weird previous owner mods
it's an automatic now... boooooo
it's got a 1967 buick 340 - blah

and other weird things I'm working on
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  #34  
Old 08-28-2018, 09:12 AM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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I should've thought of this before. Do you have a meter?

Hook it up to the two motor leads on the terminal strip and see what you get. Should be 12V in one direction and -12V in the other.

It's not unheard of to get a bad rebuilt motor.
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'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #35  
Old 08-28-2018, 09:49 AM
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babywag babywag is offline
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You need to post a pic of the motor you're using, and verify it is the correct one. I question if an aftermarket rebuilt is actually correct?
Many vendors/manufacturers incorrectly assume all years that parts are same.

As said earlier the new/late ones work differently. If not wired correctly they won't work, and you can damage the early one using the later style wiring setup.
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'88 GW (aka Babywag) and '90 GW (aka JUNKbucket) both fuel injected
1994 Caprice wagon
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  #36  
Old 08-29-2018, 10:46 PM
SJTD SJTD is offline
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Are the more than two versions; those being the two wire and the earlier three wire?
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Sic friatur crustulum

'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
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  #37  
Old 09-03-2018, 10:55 PM
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turtlehead turtlehead is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babywag
You need to post a pic of the motor you're using, and verify it is the correct one. I question if an aftermarket rebuilt is actually correct?
Many vendors/manufacturers incorrectly assume all years that parts are same.

As said earlier the new/late ones work differently. If not wired correctly they won't work, and you can damage the early one using the later style wiring setup.





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1972 Wagoneer
some really weird previous owner mods
it's an automatic now... boooooo
it's got a 1967 buick 340 - blah

and other weird things I'm working on
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