Originally posted by Pavementsux91XJ
Going Diesel Need Opinions
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DDs
67 KJ715 4bt AA OD 465 np205
78 J20 Chevy 305 nv4500 np205
Projects
Sons Build 1980 short bed J10, j20 axles, 4bt, nv4500, np205, shortened M715 bed and fenders
Freedom is not Free, it is paid for with Blood
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Originally posted by Pavementsux91XJI'd go with the 12 valve if your not going with a full race application. I have driven VE and P pumped 12 valces and I can tell you that my 24V with a chip will run circles around them BUT... The install would be much more complex, plus, if your going to P pump the 24 V, you would lose most (not all, but most) of the reason for getting the 24 valve. Add into that that most 98 and 99 and some 00 and 01 24v should be out of the question due to the "53" code brazil block that likes to crack and your going to have a hard time finding a good one. I can tell you that a bone stock 4wd 2500 dodge extra cab long bed has power to spare with the P pump, which means in something as light as a j-truck, that engine will have PLENTY of power.
Something for everybody to keep in mind though. These diesel engines were built to tow in trucks, or for the economy in cars. Other than the new CRD engines, they are not rocket ships. Bone stock they are only going to rev to about 3 grand and it will take them awhile to get there. Its in their design and the fuel they use. I'm not going with a diesel swap, even though I am a diesel mechanic, for just that reason. Gas engines are for horsepower and fast revs, diesels are for torque and pulling. Use your Jeep for mud much? You'll be watching your turbos puke up there turbine wheels. Live in a cold place? startings gonna be fun. I hate to burst anybodys bubble, but those diesels you see in the magazines have a ton of $$$ put into them to make them handle that power. And if your not a diesel mechanic, repairs are more expensive. If the injection pump goes out or starts leaking which will happen to the older pumps when run on the new standard ULSD diesel or bio-juice, your looking at $1000 plus to fix it for parts alone.
I'll get off my soap box now. I've just seen way too many people buy diesels to be cool and think that out of the box they act like the ones in the magazines only to end up either selling them because they can't afford the repairs or blow them up because they don't know what theyre doing.
The real advantage of the 12v is simplicity and longevity, neither of which can be applied to the common rail engines.
My 12v should be about 350 hp 600+lbft when everything is done, it should be a reasonable performer1980 Cherokee WT with Cummins 6BT
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Originally posted by seamusVe pumped 12v's can be strong performers, especially if they are in a vehicle that weighs 2500 lbs less than my 2005 3500.
The real advantage of the 12v is simplicity and longevity, neither of which can be applied to the common rail engines.
My 12v should be about 350 hp 600+lbft when everything is done, it should be a reasonable performer77 Wagoneer | 6.0 | TH400 | NP205 | Sterling 10.5 | Dana 60
07 6.7 Cummins 2500 4wd
lobie4x4.com
CFSJC
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Wow, there are a ton of opinions on this thread. I guess the reality is, it all boils down to brand preference, all of the engine choices discussed are excellent engines and will render years of reliable service.
I have experience with multiple conversions and I have not had the courage to use a 4l80e, to my knowledge the entire transmission is designed for high revving gas/diesel engines. I guess I fear I will never get the shift points in the right place. I typically use the 4bt or 6bt, I have installed both engines in fsj's. So I opt for the 47RH and the TF727.
There is no doubt in my mind that the early Cummins engine are as simple as they come. With minimul effort scourcing parts does not have to be overly expensive.
If at all possible I would recommend seeking out running vehicles with the different engine choices you are contemplating. At the very least hear them crank up and run. Ultimatley, I earge you to get behind the wheel of them and see how the different choices feel to you. It could make all the difference!
Aaron Reeves
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Welcome Aaron Reeves!
I've been watching your projects on Facebook and very impressed with you work and attention to detail.Bryan Smith
2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited
- 75th Anniversary Edition - 1941 Trim Package - Recon Green
1986 Jeep J20
- Super clean rig from the AZ/CA state line
1982 Jeep J10
- Has become a Long Term Project.
1981 Jeep J20
- Commercial flat bed - Lost in a Divorce --gone
1987 Jeep J20 Pioneer
- Former Rick Bielec aka Ricbee plow rig. Major rust!! --gone
IFSJA Member #1933 Joined November 30, 2001
Originally posted by Jayrodoh...but if it works, I wouldn't touch it.Originally posted by LindelBest laid plans, yada yada yada...
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I'm holding out for the GM 4.5 V8. Any rumors?___________________________
J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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Isuzu 4bd fans should check out the engine that went into this Ford pickup...vicinity of page 36 in the string....mega power and 30 mpg. Also as discussed in the Street /Performance section below, it appears this Crown Vic IFS swap would work on a FSJ. (Thanks, Bigun)
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Buildup!! 06 crown vic front suspension into 67 F100 - I am swapping a 2006 crown vic front suspension into my 67 ford F100. I know this is a good alternative for a more modern front suspension and a good way to get alot of suspension drop, plus it is a steal at $350-$500...Last edited by Towtruck; 10-20-2011, 05:57 PM.___________________________
J10 - Body channel (3 inch drop @ front); dechromed; shaved side parking lights, antenna, and hood trim bar. Ford mirrors, roll pans, side exhaust, 16 inch wheels, custom dash, new interior, Edelbrocked 360, HEI, T18/208 (J20), rear disk brakes, goose neck and bumper hitches.
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Originally posted by TowtruckI'm holding out for the GM 4.5 V8. Any rumors?83 J-10 Jeep "Oscar"
360/727/229
4" Rusty's w/33X12.50 BFG AT's
I'll apologize ahead of time...my inner voice has Tourette's...
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DETROIT
call me different, but i would go straight for a 4-53t detroit, 2 stroke. nothing turns heads like the sound they make. another thing is they put out significantly more power than a 4bt, 175 vs 130 or so, and something like 400 ft lb. they certainly weigh more though, and are getting hard to find. (i havent found one in years of searching). another plus is they can bolt straight to a gm standard transmission, pretty sure automatics are harder to adapt for some reason
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I had planned on putting the Isuzu NPR 4BD2TC I have in a Jeep with the later AW4 type trans (it has an overhauled Jatco 4 speed auto. Not my fav but okay for 120K miles under load) The shop I bought the truck from was upset because they popped the headgasket driving the truck to the trans shop in low gear the whole way. (Duh!) It didn’t work for them to blame the shop so the $3K spent on the trans was wasted unless they fixed the motor ($1000 I was quoted or $3K with new liners and rebuilt too)
Basically it’s a “copy” of the 4BT and most are over 500,000 miles by now. (Less than 200K on this one)
I’ll be selling it complete for parts only ($1500 without the nearly brand new tires or I’ll fix it and sell the Grumman with TBI SBC 350or400 and 4L80E and fix/drive the Isuzu to Kingsport after selling our cabin and property out west)Jeep gauges are for amusement only. Any correlation between them and reality is purely coincidental.
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Originally posted by fiero377cicall me different, but i would go straight for a 4-53t detroit, 2 stroke. nothing turns heads like the sound they make. another thing is they put out significantly more power than a 4bt, 175 vs 130 or so, and something like 400 ft lb. they certainly weigh more though, and are getting hard to find. (i havent found one in years of searching). another plus is they can bolt straight to a gm standard transmission, pretty sure automatics are harder to adapt for some reason87' Grand Wagoneer
401/727/229, Currently:RUNNING
84 J10/20 hybrid 258/727/208 Daily Driver
80' J10 4BT/AX-15/208
74' J10 Go Grabber Green Sold
Originally posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81Inferior Chevy
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Originally posted by fiero377cicall me different, but i would go straight for a 4-53t detroit, 2 stroke. nothing turns heads like the sound they make. another thing is they put out significantly more power than a 4bt, 175 vs 130 or so, and something like 400 ft lb. they certainly weigh more though, and are getting hard to find. (i havent found one in years of searching). another plus is they can bolt straight to a gm standard transmission, pretty sure automatics are harder to adapt for some reason87' Grand Wagoneer
401/727/229, Currently:RUNNING
84 J10/20 hybrid 258/727/208 Daily Driver
80' J10 4BT/AX-15/208
74' J10 Go Grabber Green Sold
Originally posted by Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81Inferior Chevy
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