The Lemoore Project

[Ristow]

no. they wont work on pedestal heads.

[bkilby]

Looks like Scorpion products are made in the USA and about half the price of Crane rocker arms.

http://www.scorpionracingproducts.com/amc---race-series.html

[Ristow]

oh wow,i didn't know they were making pedestal 1.7. those would be good.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Yup, those are the ones I was talking about. Same part number: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1104
Now, is the power increase over the stock ratio non-rollers worth the extra $300?

[Ristow]

i dunno. depends on the guy buying them i spose.. but they are more accurate,due to rigidity,and give a gain in lift,and the roller tip eliminates stem wear,so the valve seals last longer and seal better. go with machined guides for positive seals. i'd go for it for those reasons over the power increase.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Just found out my parts rig has a Holley Street Dominator intake on it. Any good? I thought I read somewhere that they have small intake runners and aren't as desirable? Would it perform better than the stock cast iron square bore intake I have on there now?

There are will eventually be pics, guys. I promise lol

[Achilles]

Looking forward to seeing this unfold.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Looking forward to seeing this unfold.

I'm starting to sound a lot like old Sergio Marchionne. Soon! I've been busy with work and our move to California. Things will start to ramp up here either this coming week or the next week as I have the next month and a half OFF of work. Nice.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Small progress

Well today was parts gathering day.

I rounded up my spare transfer case


And my Novak rebuild kit. Comes with all bearings, seals, gaskets, shims, and a new hardened intermediate shaft.

I also found my old transfer case parking brake.


I stripped the brake components off, boxed them up, and sent them out to Herm The Overdrive Guy down in southern Washington for an exchange of fully rebuild components.

The reason for the transfer case brake is for when I swap to rear disc brakes I will be using regular half ton front calipers with no parking brake function.

Tomorrow I will tear down the Dana case and bring the input and output shafts to a local 4x4 shop to have the bearings swapped with their press. Then the rebuild begins.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Disassembly

Got a late start today. But got right to tearing down the case.
A little background about myself. I am an ASE Certified Master Technician. I am also in the Navy as an aircraft mechanic. With that said; no matter how well I know (or think I know) how to do something, be it swap engines on my $1200 beater Jeep or swap engines on a multi-million dollar war machine, I ALWAYS read the directions. That is just what is instilled in us in the aviation community.
Novak's first instructions are to remove and disassemble the rear output shaft housing. Mine was already removed so I took it apart. I like to keep the adjusting shims together with a zip-tie and reuse them to get the pre-load "close" with the new bearings so it's a bit easier to dial in.

Next is to remove the oil pan

After that you remove the intermediate shaft retaining bolt and plate, drive the intermediate shaft out, and remove the gear set, two thrust washers, three spacers, and 48 needle bearings (Count them! Don't want any FOD damage )

Then everything comes right now, sort of. Follow the directions! (Again, I zip-tie the front output shims together.)

Remove the front cover and drive all bearing races and seals out of it and the rear output housing.

And don't lose the detent balls or springs!

Next is to clean/degrease and inspect all the parts.

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Clean/Degrease

I don't have a fancy parts washer, nor do I have regular access to one, so this is how I normally clean my dirty and greasy parts.
Start a large pot of water on the stove.

Gather all your parts into a 5 gallon bucket. Arrange the greasiest parts at the bottom of the bucket.

Add a gallon of Simple Green allowing the parts at the bottom to "pre-soak" in the concentrated degreaser.


Heat the water until just before it begins to boil then pour it into the bucket with your parts and the degreaser so it covers all of your parts.


Then snap the lid on and walk away for a couple hours.

Off to the car wash with you!

Gunk Gel works best.

Then come back home and get scrubbing!

After some time with a wire wheel everything is mostly clean.


Tomorrow is more cleaning, reassembly, and paint.

[Achilles]

Does the simple green and water have any negative effect on cast iron parts?

[Heavy_Metal_Thunder_81]

Does the simple green and water have any negative effect on cast iron parts?

Not really. You just need to scrub them while they're still warm then rinse and dry them relatively fast or they get a real light flash rust on them but that just wipes off. Also make sure you either wear long rubber gloves when scrubbing or apply lotion to your hands immediately afterwards, that stiff really dries your skin out.

[Achilles]

Got it. Thanks!!!!

Not really. You just need to scrub them while they're still warm then rinse and dry them relatively fast or they get a real light flash rust on them but that just wipes off. Also make sure you either wear long rubber gloves when scrubbing or apply lotion to your hands immediately afterwards, that stiff really dries your skin out.

[Ristow]

Also make sure you either wear long rubber gloves when scrubbing or apply lotion to your hands immediately afterwards, that stiff really dries your skin out.

such a delicate flower....