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  #1  
Old 06-30-2013, 04:49 PM
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1979cherokee 1979cherokee is offline
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oil pump

What is the best and where can I get a high volume oil pump for my 360?
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Old 06-30-2013, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979cherokee
What is the best and where can I get a high volume oil pump for my 360?

The oil pump is part of the timing cover. You can replace the gears, but there is no "high volume" oil pump as such, AFAIK.

There's a lot of info on this forum about refurbishing the timing cover to improve oil delivery. Do you have low oil pressure now?
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2013, 06:15 PM
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blazer3664 blazer3664 is offline
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Quote:
The oil pump is part of the timing cover. You can replace the gears, but there is no "high volume" oil pump as such, AFAIK.

There's a lot of info on this forum about refurbishing the timing cover to improve oil delivery. Do you have low oil pressure now?

Yep, what he said. With special attention to the refurb you will have what amounts to "high volume" pump for an AMC.

As for replacment parts, Bultear is probably the "best" place to find them. They have all kinds of goodies for AMC engines.

Jim
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2013, 07:32 PM
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When cold my oil pressure is around 45-55psi, when warm it is 10-15psi. Im running 10w30 oil
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BIG RED 31inch Mickey Thompsons Baja MTZ, Rustys 4 inch full spring lift, 1973 AMC 360 Chevy TBI, edelbrock performer intake,.030 over, crane cam, dubble roller timing set,TH400, BW1339, Dana 44 front and rear, Bj's offroad prerunner bumper. Full size for life with the exception of GM product and no Fords.
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2013, 07:47 PM
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Rich88 Rich88 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979cherokee
When cold my oil pressure is around 45-55psi, when warm it is 10-15psi. Im running 10w30 oil

There's frequently a misconception about what oil pressure really is, and how to improve it.

Here's an analogy: If your garden hose isn't spraying water out as far as it used to and you go back and see there are several holes in the hose where water is spewing out, the solution is not to increase the water pressure. You patch or replace the hose.

Having said that, the "holes" in your system are either worn oil pump clearances and/or worn cam/main/rod bearings. Even if you could magically install a higher pressure oil pump on an FSJ (which you can't) you still have worn bearings to contend with.

Answer is: Overhaul the existing pump first. If no improvement, start saving and planning for an engine overhaul.
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2013, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1979cherokee
When cold my oil pressure is around 45-55psi, when warm it is 10-15psi. Im running 10w30 oil

Hot idle pressure is what matters. 10-15 isn't terrible if it's at the proper operating temp of 195F, and at idle. The usual rule-of-thumb is 10 psi for every 1000 RPM. So you're probably fine for normal driving. These engines get really low (and keep running for a while usually) at hot idle, like below 5 psi. If you're down there, you're in danger of hammering a rod bearing. That's the usual result.

If you have 10-15 psi at cruising speeds, you need to park it till you figure out what to do. IMO.

I run 15W40 Shell ROtella T in the Jeeps, and it seems to work well. You can also change your OP by running a better oil filter than Fram, like Wix.

If your measurements are using the factory OP gauge, you might want to check them with an aftermarket mechanical gauge. The factory gauges are known to be inaccurate.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk

Last edited by tgreese : 06-30-2013 at 09:02 PM.
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  #7  
Old 06-30-2013, 09:53 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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Lots of point to ponder.

I'm a melling fan myself there's no magic bullet. One thing that is always I see on these that can & does affect these is the bypass & assembly. With age they get weaker. Agree that there are mitigating circumstances such as wear to bearings. I found my bypass directly contributing to pressure also. I take mine out now they aren't worth the trouble.

10 to 20 at idle isn't the end of the world though.
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NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
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If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.

Last edited by serehill : 09-05-2013 at 07:26 PM.
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  #8  
Old 06-30-2013, 11:20 PM
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The overpressure regulator (bypass) spring was weak from the factory. They didn't account for multiple heat/cool cycles and the spring tends to "shrink" with age and lose it's tension. That's aside from bearing wear and a worn pump bore. Pierre Beauchamp up in Canada used to machine the housings to take a bolt on Buick higher volume pump.
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  #9  
Old 07-03-2013, 01:44 AM
cherokee83 cherokee83 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnuck
The overpressure regulator (bypass) spring was weak from the factory. They didn't account for multiple heat/cool cycles and the spring tends to "shrink" with age and lose it's tension. That's aside from bearing wear and a worn pump bore. Pierre Beauchamp up in Canada used to machine the housings to take a bolt on Buick higher volume pump.
Did the bolt on Buick high volume oil pump work after the machine the housing to take the bolt...is this something any backyard person can do
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  #10  
Old 07-04-2013, 08:20 PM
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Definitely needs machine shop work because of the tolerances of the dist drive gear to oil pump end play.
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Old 07-14-2013, 07:56 PM
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ok so today I rebuilt the oil pump cold at 1200rpm I have 55psi of oil pressure,but warm going down the road dong 45mph I have 15psi of oil pressure. I just got done checking the rod and main bearings and they are good? Any suggestions what else to do?
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  #12  
Old 07-14-2013, 08:04 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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The gears could have gouged into the flat surface that the gears ride on. You can try to sand it flat using a piece of glass under the sandpaper to keep it ABSOLUTELY flat.

You could also try a thinner gasket (Bulltear has them IIRC), too. If both of those things fail to increase pressure, you're looking at pulling the timing cover to sand its mounting surface down to get correct gear "stick out" (clearance).

And then if that doesn't work, chances are good that the cam bearings need attention. :-(

But if you're going to remove the timing cover, mightaswell check the cam bearings while you're at it anyway. :-/

Low oil pressure is a huge PITA, IMHO. Good luck.
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  #13  
Old 07-14-2013, 09:42 PM
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serehill serehill is offline
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HUH

When you rebuilt the pump did you replace the bypass spring & seal??
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80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association

If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
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  #14  
Old 07-15-2013, 12:02 PM
Ristow Ristow is offline
 
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it's the cam bearings that cause it more often then rod/mains.
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  #15  
Old 07-15-2013, 05:51 PM
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yes I did replace the bypass spring and seal
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  #16  
Old 09-05-2013, 07:18 PM
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ok so I am running 15w40 oil now. I have 35psi warm sitting a at stop sign, but when I take off the oil pressure drops to 25psi.
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  #17  
Old 09-06-2013, 12:41 AM
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sounds like something in the pan may be clogging the screen, assuming the gauge is correct and you checked with a mechanical gauge, because AMC/Jeep gauges were for amusement only. Any resemblance between them and reality is pure coincidence!
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:37 AM
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Yes i have a mechanical gauge cluster in the jeep.
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  #19  
Old 09-09-2013, 09:55 AM
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If you're oil pressure is dropping when you takeoff, barring a low oil level in the pan, I'd bet that the sump screen is obstructed by little bits of what used to be the plastic valve stem seals from your top end. Just throwing that out there because I found the same thing when I tore into my engine last year. I also replaced the oil pump end plate, gears/driveshaft and pressure regulator spring/plug. I got my end plate from another timing cover that I had laying around but I seem to recall that Bulltear machines new replacement end plates for a reasonable price. If you can see any wearing in yours from the gears that you can feel with your fingernail, I'd go ahead and replace it if you're already in there.
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  #20  
Old 09-09-2013, 11:07 AM
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10-15 PSI with 10W30 is about right for an idle speed between 600-700 RPM.

Heck, 327's idle with 5-10 PSI at 500 RPM all day long and nobody ever complains about them.
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