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o you mean the windshield pillar? i tried once with no luck, but my wire was small enough that i slipped it into the door gasket pinch weld side no problem
Its pretty much solid. I dont know if you can sucessfully navigate all that stuff.
heres the best pick I got. Ill take one of the new clean one tomorrow so you have an exact idea.
fill in the missing strip and its closed off
this is the angle looking down into the pillar from the roof. Its got that same spounge crap and sealant goop in it so any crack that might be there is going to have it in there.
just food for thought:
the lower level has this hallow section and you could probably drill into it with a 1/8" bit and feed the wire thorugh that way. Its exposed above the headliner position so you wouldnt see it. Once its in the it will come out in the door hinge attachment area and you can use the hole that the door wires run thorugh to grab it.
Ill take the pic of the new one tomorrow if you need it.
JP
THIS RESTORATION WILL BE THE MOST DIFFICULT AND EXPENSIVE THING I HAVE EVER ATTEMPTED TO ACCOMPLISH HONEY, I SWEAR!!!
Yea, that's ok JP. I've gotten a fiberglass rod from the bottom up to the top, but no further. And no luck going down from the top.
I'll have to find another way. I've run other wires back to the B pillar, I'll have to extend these wires and do it with these too.
I have 3 wires for the new mirror I'm putting in, and I don't think they'll fit under the pinch weld strip.
Thanks,
Color me confused! If you're able to get a rod from the bottom to the top tie a piece of wire or string to it pull it down, then pull your wire up with it
charlie
KB0HXA
"Crom" 76/75 Cherokee/J20 Hybred,
Originally posted by Gambler68
congrats...that's the first post on here I have absolutely no effing clue how to comment on.
I think he means the rod gets to the top, not through the top.
(Hits the metal at the top and stops. )
Originally posted by bigun
Color me confused! If you're able to get a rod from the bottom to the top tie a piece of wire or string to it pull it down, then pull your wire up with it
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Home of ADHD project list
1977 J-10 Honcho 360-T15-D20
1977 Cherokee WT 360-Th400-NP241 true-trac(s)
1979 Cherokee 4 Door 258-T-18-D20
1981 Cherokee Chief WT 360-727-NP208
1972 K20 Suburban 350 SM465 205
And the other stuff that gets driven
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I think he means the rod gets to the top, not through the top.
(Hits the metal at the top and stops. )
AH HA, Ok go to Home Depot or the like, go to the electrical section and look for an extenda bit or bell hanger bit they can be had all the way to 56 inches long. They are a drill bit mounted on a flexible shaft
charlie
KB0HXA
"Crom" 76/75 Cherokee/J20 Hybred,
Originally posted by Gambler68
congrats...that's the first post on here I have absolutely no effing clue how to comment on.
LOL so you are going to drill this from the bottom??????
80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
LOL so you are going to drill this from the bottom??????
You would be surprised at what you can drill with the flex extensions, I don't think there is room to do it from the top. would be interesting to see it attempted, with my luck I would pop a hole through the front of the a-pillar, or worse through the windshield side
-----------------------------------------
Home of ADHD project list
1977 J-10 Honcho 360-T15-D20
1977 Cherokee WT 360-Th400-NP241 true-trac(s)
1979 Cherokee 4 Door 258-T-18-D20
1981 Cherokee Chief WT 360-727-NP208
1972 K20 Suburban 350 SM465 205
And the other stuff that gets driven
----------------------------------------
I have fished all kinds of stuff using flex steel & butterflies & all kinds of stuff the only way up is through the B pillars. Even AMC new it that's why the dome lights & map light go up that way.
Good call Brad
The problem is you have to make about a 30 degree turn right at the top & there's no way you can make the turn 3 feet up the pillar.. It simply not a straight drill. The flex bit because of the angle will walk sideways & bind. The key to making a flex bit work that far in is that the plate be a 90 degree angle to the bit. is close proximity if it drill it will be right out the top.
The subject I though was drilling from the bottom. Making an assumption with the reference length mentioned. I do agree closer to being able to do it from the top but I'm betting no. There lot's of knowledge & finesse to these types of bit but they are not designed for this type of structure. I have been surprised many times. The suprise is from disasters as much as successes.
80 Cherokee
360 ci 727 with
Comp cams 270 h
NP208
Edlebrock performer intake
Holley 4180
Msd total multi spark.
4" rusty's springs
Member, FSJ Prissy Restoration Association
If you can't make it better why waste your time. No use repeating the orignal mistakes. I'm to old to push it that's why.
Even if you get the wire through, how do you make sure it's not sitting on a sharp edge or burr?
Sic friatur crustulum
'84 GW with Nissan SD33T, early Chev NV4500, 300, narrowed Ford reverse 44, narrowed Ford 60, SOA/reversed shackle in fornt, lowered mount/flipped shackle in rear.
You can use compressed air to blow a string through, then use the
String to pull the wire.
However this method may not work with fan a pillars, as the
Pics look like they are closed off at the top. It also doesn't
Do anything to deal with possible sharp edges inside the cavity.
1987 Grand Wagoneer,
well worn, bone stock, with 120K miles.
added a snow plow, and looking for a lift.
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