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  #1  
Old 01-06-2020, 10:54 PM
waggin_around waggin_around is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Jun 27, 2019
Location: NE USA
Posts: 8
stalling after warm up?

Working out the kinks in a low mile 1980 Waggy. 39000 miles on entire vehicle. replaced battery, filters, ignition coil, newer cap/rotor/wires. New ignition box and distributor. Did carb rebuild kit too.

Had melt-down of the previous ignition module after bought vehicle when drove it home. Replaced that module, but still had something smoke in the dash gauges area..

Starts up every time when cold, then after running awhile quits when at a stop sign, or shifting into reverse, etc. Wont start again for a half hour or so, then it will restart and drive again.

thoughts what to chase next? Ways to troubleshoot to narrow down the issue?

thanks for suggestions.
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  #2  
Old 01-06-2020, 11:06 PM
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Full Size Jeeper Full Size Jeeper is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2014
Location: Mandeville Louisiana
Posts: 2,052
Next time you have the problem, pull the air filter cover and hit it with some starting fluid. If it starts you might have a fuel problem.
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1978 Wagoneer

401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

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Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box
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  #3  
Old 01-06-2020, 11:07 PM
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Full Size Jeeper Full Size Jeeper is offline
304 AMC
 
Join Date: Jul 20, 2014
Location: Mandeville Louisiana
Posts: 2,052
If it will not start with starting fluid, pull a plug wire and check for spark.
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1978 Wagoneer

401/turbo 400 trans. Quadra-Trac BW1339 (with Low) 4" Rusty's lift with 31" Summit Mud Dawgs

Mods:
Fuel Tank, Red Holley Fuel Pump, Razor Grill (profile pic out dated), Rebuilt steering box
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2020, 10:13 PM
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78 WIDETRAC 78 WIDETRAC is offline
258 I6
 
Join Date: Aug 19, 2003
Location: Portland, Or
Posts: 465
Vacuum leak would be something to look for. Phenolic spacer under the carb is often brittle and may have a hairline crack or 3.



Sounds like youve addressed to most likley items already.



Also, the new ignition modules are not always the best these days. Grab another module to have as a spare and switch it when it happens again.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2020, 08:19 AM
661warwagon 661warwagon is offline
232 I6
 
Join Date: Apr 21, 2016
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 42
I have a similar problem I was told to look into a possible vacuum leak in my brake booster or problem with my vacuum advance.... does yours shake and act like your jeep is going to cut off at a stop light/sign etc
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2020, 11:47 AM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
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Once warmed up is the choke plate opening fully?
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Old 01-08-2020, 01:08 PM
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asphaltrockdweller asphaltrockdweller is offline
350 Buick
 
Join Date: Jul 09, 2009
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Or once it gets to operating temp one of the valves that are mounted to your thermostat housing or intake might be opening up, and there is a vacuum leak once it opens?


Check those vacuum valves that are in the water passages, and their hoses.
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2020, 01:47 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asphaltrockdweller
Or once it gets to operating temp one of the valves that are mounted to your thermostat housing or intake might be opening up, and there is a vacuum leak once it opens?

Check those vacuum valves that are in the water passages, and their hoses.
+1.
In 1980 You should have 2 CTO switches. One at the back to the passenger side next to the valve cover and one on the front to the passenger side. One turns on the EGR once it's warm and one switches vacuum to the distributor from manifold vacuum to ported vacuum. Verify those hoses are routed correctly and not cracked.
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2020, 02:11 PM
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babywag babywag is offline
out of order
 
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Location: Land of froot loops and cukcoo-nuts, CA
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If it won't start for 30 minutes it is very likely electrical/ignition related.
smoke from dash sounds like ammeter wiring issues
i would closely examine the wiring harness!
you have ~49yr old wiring on the thing bound to be areas in need of repair(s)
aftermarket ignition parts these days are many times junk.
just because the coil & module are new does not mean they are good.
either will exhibit stalls/no start heat issues when bad.
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Old 01-08-2020, 06:48 PM
waggin_around waggin_around is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Jun 27, 2019
Location: NE USA
Posts: 8
Thanks all for the suggestions. Where do you recommending buying parts (new ignition module)? An OEM supplier? Or upgrade to newer ignition from Summit/Jegs, etc?
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  #11  
Old 01-12-2020, 03:37 PM
waggin_around waggin_around is offline
230 Tornado
 
Join Date: Jun 27, 2019
Location: NE USA
Posts: 8
Mechanic friend Fixed it! Was the ignition module. The one I bought on amazon was overheating I presume and shutting off. Bought a NAPA one after it stalled swapped it out and started right up. Running fine now on day 2
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  #12  
Old 01-12-2020, 06:23 PM
joe joe is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 28, 2000
Location: PNWet, USA
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Pretty much most replacement parts are now all overseas outsourced junk "especially" elec/ign stuff. Even the OEM modules were the weak link in the Duraspark ign. I've had pretty good(by todays stds)luck with Napas elec ign stuff. Of all the chain store parts dealers they "seem to be" the last hold out for not going totally China parts. Again most elec parts are a crap shoot today even from the dealer. My usual elec repair plan is buy two and toss the extra in the glove box. Yeah not a grand plan but cheaper than a tow and a motel room waiting for parts.
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  #13  
Old 01-13-2020, 01:08 PM
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rang-a-stang rang-a-stang is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
...My usual elec repair plan is buy two and toss the extra in the glove box. Yeah not a grand plan but cheaper than a tow and a motel room waiting for parts.
I'm with you. My spare parts stash that I carry is slowly growing.
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