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Old 09-09-2004, 12:38 PM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
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I have decided to bring my old 1979 FSJ Cherokee back to life. It has a rebuilt 360 V8, rebuilt TH400 tranny, Quadratrac (full-time) 4x4, and D44's front and rear.

While I have other drivetrain plans in mind and have accumulated parts for this future swap, the first order of business was to get the oil leaks fixed from sitting so long. To date: leaks fixed/gaskets replaced, engine de-greaser applied, and now engine compartment is clean!

The next most important issue(to my wife), was to get the Cherokee a nice paint job. I bought it in a primered format, but it still needed some body work done before it was ready for paint. At the time of purchase, I didn't really care if it was painted, but since I have decided to get it back on the road as a daily driver, I'd like for it to look good. Here are pics, prior to any body work:



As I started to de-chrome this rig, my buddy started sanding down the old primer, and digging out the old bondo. We already had both replacement rocker panels, knew we needed some replacement rear fender flares, and found a spot or two full of bondo. Other than that, this old Cherokee is pretty straight, and will not be a major project getting ready for paint. Progress pics:



As you can see, the second pic shows some bondo (white areas). What we didn't know is that the entire side of the Cherokee is FULL of bondo, from the back part of the door to the rear tail light marker. Looks like someone had a little fender-bender. Nothing too serious, as the rear fender well is straight, and most of the areas are not too thick of bondo....with the exception of the above pic. That pic shows an area of about 3/4" deep of bondo. How it didn't crack, and how it stood up all these years is beyond me...must have been done by someone who knew what they were doing.

With this development, it looks like I have two options: (1) go see if I can get a "decent" side fender from a donor rig...chances of finding one without rust is slim-to-none, or (2) order some replacement fenders from J.C. Whitney for $100.

We will dig into this Cherokee a little more tomorrow and see what the best option is for now. More pics to come later.
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Old 09-09-2004, 01:54 PM
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J10Mike J10Mike is offline
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eric,
what color are you going with? keep us posted.
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Old 09-09-2004, 04:23 PM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
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Since the exposed interior metal is red, I'm going to stick with the factory red. That way I don't have to strip out the interior to repaint, or pull the doors/gate apart to paint the jambs, etc.

I'm doing an abridged version of it's original paint. I will paint it red, and accent the window areas black, like the original factory paint job. On the bottom, I will paint a black stripe, but will not do the "Cherokee Chief" lettering. Also, I'm not going to paint the ends/tips of the fenders black either...they will be entirely red. It will be close to the original paint scheme, but simplified, for a fresh, clean look.
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Old 09-09-2004, 05:12 PM
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try this link

http://www.ifsja.org/ubb/ultimatebb....c;f=2;t=025323
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:43 AM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
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Progress is coming along...here are some more pics:

The passenger side flare was removed. A plasma cutter was used, which ignited the spray-in insulation the P.O. used as water-proofing (I guess).


Next, was removing the entire rear panel on the drivers side...from the door to the tailgate. This panel was filled with bondo due to a past fender bender. Overall it wasn't that bad, but had enough to justify removing it all. The interior access panel has been removed, and some undercoating is going to be sprayed inside the panels to prevent any future rusting from the inside:


Is this spray-in, expanding insulation a common practice to keep water out? The driver side panel is full of this stuff too....looks like poop to me:


It's coming along...can't wait to get the body work done so it can get painted.

More updates to come.

[ September 14, 2004, 08:47 AM: Message edited by: 2MUD-IN ]
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Old 09-14-2004, 02:04 PM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
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Interior panels were sprayed with undercoating. We left it pretty much alone tonight to dry.

Work starts again tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 09-14-2004, 05:07 PM
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Chris Barry Chris Barry is offline
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cool
as soon as my wife gives me the okay and the $$, I'll do prolly follow suit.
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Old 09-15-2004, 12:16 AM
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Somebody with more experience can correct me, but that spray-in stuff should be removed. I'd expect it to trap water and hold it up against the panels, causing rust-through. Not factory - some PO's idea.

I think you're on the right track with cutting out the old panels. Maybe add some MCU (moisture cured urethane - Eastwood, RustBullet, Por-15,etc) on the exposed rusty metal and weld-through primer around the new seams.

[ September 15, 2004, 06:22 AM: Message edited by: tgreese ]
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Old 09-15-2004, 01:38 AM
2MUD-IN 2MUD-IN is offline
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tgreese - Tell me more about the "weld-through primer".

So, remove the spray-in stuff huh. I was thinking that the spray in stuff was preventing water from entering the inside of the panels. But if we fix all the holes, then I guess it's really not needed anymore.
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Old 09-15-2004, 02:41 AM
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The door panels have drain holes in the bottom. Not sure if the rest of the panels drain... better to let it drain out than to hold it in, I would think.

Weld-through contains lots of zinc that protects the joint after welding. Comes in a spray can and is used only on the bare metal surfaces to be welded. Do a google search for "weld-through primer" and you'll get lots of links.
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Maine beekeeper's truck: '77 J10 LWB, 258/T15/D20/3.54 bone stock, low options (delete radio), PS, hubcaps.
Browless and proud: '82 J20 360/T18/NP208/3.73, Destination ATs, 7600 GVWR
Copper Polly: '75 CJ-6, 304/T15, PS, BFG KM2s, soft top
GTI without the badges: '95 VW Golf Sport 2000cc 2D
ECO Green: '15 FCA Jeep Cherokee KL Trailhawk
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