Exhaust manifold repair on 84 GW

[Andy]

Need to remove exhaust manifold to fix exhaust leak on 84 Grand Wagoneer V-8. Questions for anyone who has done this job: 1. Do I need to remove air conditioning hoses for access to manifold, or can I wriggle around them? 2. Same question for heater core housing, which appears to be blocking access as well. 3. Have not owned this Jeep long; appears manifold was removed not too long ago; appear to be small cracks at edge of manifold where the exhaust pipes begin. Is this manifold a common problem for this model? Many thanks to anyone who can offer guidance, spiritual blessings, etc.

[ March 03, 2002: Message edited by: Andy ]</p>

[Bob Barry]

I've wiggled mine out without removing the hoses, but I believe I had to move the A/C compressor out of the way. The other thing is dropping the Y-pipe, so that there is more room to wiggle it out.

[Brown Bear]

I've never taken the manifold off mine, but from what I can see, you're gonna have to be stretch armstrong to get to the back bolts. I think it would be easier to take the heater box out, and then tackle it. Also, you might have to do some searching for a thin walled socket, or maybe a 1/4 drive socket will work, for some of the bolts. I entertained the idea of taking off the mani once, and couldn't get my 3/8 drive socket to fit. The wall was hitting of the riser of the mani was too close.

[fitron74]

Andy,
The best way I found to get the manifold off was to remove the passinger side tire/wheel and get at the nuts/bolts up under the wheelwell with a long rachet extension with a U-joint socket. You can crack the nuts first with a box-end wrench from the top or bottom then rachet them off. Plan on busting off some exhaust manifold stud bolts when you drop the Y-pipe. They're easier to drill out with a cobalt bit when the manifold is out of the vehicle. That's what I had deal with when I performed the same task on my '87 GW so have at it and good luck.
Fitron74

[Millerluck]

I took a look at how I had to drop the AC vents under the dash in order to get to the bolts that hold the heater box on. I said forget that!

I was able to get to all the bolts by the heater box from underneath reaching up through the frame rails.

Later

Larry Miller

[ March 04, 2002: Message edited by: Millerluck ]</p>

[Andy]

Thanks to everybody who has replied. It has all been very helpful. If anyone else has something to add, please do so. Thanks. Andy.

[Lugnut]

I don't know if you have the same clearances in your Wag. as I have in my truck, but I was able to reach some of the bolts from the top and some from the bottom. After I had the manifold bolts out, I was able to slide the manifold out from the bottom of the vehicle. And, I didn't have to drop the crossover pipe. 'Course my exhaust pipe arrangement is aftermarket (local muffler shop).
I didn't have to take anything else off.
I will add that if you're gonna attempt to fix the exhaust leak, and I'm assuming it's leaking where they usually do, that is, where the exhaust pipe bolts to the manifold, take it down to the local NAPA machine shop and have 'em cut a few thousands off the face of the manifold exhaust flange face so you have a good smooth mating surface for the steel doughnut gasket that fits there. This surface gets mighty pitted from previous leaks, rust, etc. and there's not much else you can do to do a good job of stopping the leaking short of this method.

[Lugnut]

Oh, forgot to mention, go ahead and let them take the old frozen, rusted flange bolts out. They'll only charge a few bucks more. Actually, I got mine resurfaced at the head mating surfaces, the exhaust flange surface, and had the old bolts removed, all for about $30. I certainly thought it was worth it to not have to deal with rusty, frozen bolt/bad mating surface problems.
Oh, and if your air tube bolts are leaking, which most do if they're not filled with carbon, you can try getting them out and installing 9/16" - 18 thread allen-style set-screws into these holes. It looks pretty good and it eliminates leaks there too. 'Course, I suppose the NAPA guy could do that too.
I used anti-seize compound on my allen screws in case I ever have to take them out and install air pipes, which I just found out this week, I may well have to in about a year when my county starts testing tailpipe emissions.