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  #21  
Old 10-18-2011, 11:29 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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One other "trick" I read that you can do. Hook up your timing light to the COIL wire. Either at night or in your garage, shine the timing light at the TBI injectors (with the air cleaner off, of course!) and the strobe of the timing light will "freeze" the injector spray patter so you can see it easier.

Another think to think about would be the distributor pickup. But I don't see why it would fail only at high RPMs.

Can you datalog?
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  #22  
Old 10-21-2011, 08:55 AM
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With the Tach and fuel pressure gauge hooked up it cuts out at exactly 3500 rpm and there is no change to the fuel pressure which stays steady at 17psi.

The spray doesn't stop completely, it pulses.

I don't have the ability to data log. Very low tech garage. Lol
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  #23  
Old 10-21-2011, 09:41 AM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Are you running an MSD ignition box? The reason I ask is that some of them have rev limiters. But they usually will make the engine feel like it's stumbling instead of making it backfire.

When you say the spray doesn't completely stop, but instead pulses, does the spray appear to pulse BELOW 3,500 rpm?
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  #24  
Old 10-21-2011, 03:48 PM
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I'm running an msd coil. So no rev limiter that I know of unless it is in Howell's computer. It pulses only when it hits 3500 and starts to sputter
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  #25  
Old 10-21-2011, 03:57 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Can you swap to another ECM?

AFAIK, there is no rev limiter function with the 1227747 ECM's.

Have you called Howell about this? Maybe it is a known issue. <shrug>
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  #26  
Old 10-21-2011, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbenguerel
I'm running an msd coil. So no rev limiter that I know of unless it is in Howell's computer. It pulses only when it hits 3500 and starts to sputter
Does it do the same thing under load as sitting in park?
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  #27  
Old 10-21-2011, 06:45 PM
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I cud throw the stock coil in.

Yeah it does the same thing in park and driving.
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  #28  
Old 10-21-2011, 10:51 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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If you have a spare coil, try that. It's free and would eliminate another variable.
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  #29  
Old 10-22-2011, 03:06 PM
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I must've dumped the stock coil. I could swear that I kept it but I must've been a fool and thrown it away at some point over the last year. BUT I did use my brain today and realize that I could easily put a video on youtube so that everyone could see the spray pattern. I checked my grounds and connections this morning. No change except that it is cutting out at 3300 rpm...as opposed to the 3500 the other day. Here is the video link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THmH_XuTzuU
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  #30  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:12 PM
FSJ Guy FSJ Guy is offline
 
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Time to call Howell?
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  #31  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:17 PM
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Yeah just tough b/c I'm at work when they are open and they won't respond to tech questions through email
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  #32  
Old 10-22-2011, 05:27 PM
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Leave them a voicemail (if you can) and let them know you're not happy with their customer service. They should at least TRY via email.

Can you call them during lunch?
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  #33  
Old 10-22-2011, 08:06 PM
Bill USN-1 Bill USN-1 is offline
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Check your ignition and the wiring to the ignition/coil.
Make sure the plug/coil wires are not inducing pulses into the coil/ignition wiring.
The ecm fires the injectors based on the neg side of the coil/tach signal. Howell uses a filter to limit the pulse going to the ecm to prevent damage instead of using timing control.
A bad signal to the ecm means a bad pulse to the injectors.

If you have winaldl you can also look for glitches in the rpm but the ecm only samples about once a second. so it's hit and miss.
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  #34  
Old 10-22-2011, 08:34 PM
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I will check all of that. I spent the day checking connections to the coil and doing several other things. I have two thoughts...one is based on your post, i am getting power using the ignition wiring...i can't help but wonder if that is causing interference, although the tach doesn't show any bouncing in the rpms. The other is based on the service manual which i found online, it seems to indicate that it could be the map sensor. Apparently the map sensor helps determine the mount of fuel the injectors spray. I'm gonna go out there and check it in the dark just to see! lol
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  #35  
Old 10-22-2011, 09:55 PM
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Negative on both. Tested the voltage on both positive and neg sides of coil and checked the MAP sensor. There was no jumping around in voltage. Changes were all slow and steady. Also ran power directly to battery and nothing changed. Also tried pulling the vacuum line of the MAP sensor and gave it throttle to keep it running...Still same problem. Disconnected electrical to MAP sensor...same problem. Pinched vacuum line to map sensor...same problem. Looks like I'll have to drop it off and have it scoped, not sure what else to do other than try to get Howell on the phone.
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91' GW - Dana 60 up front, 14 bolt with disk brakes in rear, Spartan locker up front, MSD Pro Billet Distributer, Howell Emissions Legal TBI Kit, 37" Super Swampers, BJ's Pre Runner Bumpers, 12500# Tough Stuff Winch, SOA, Flip Kit, High Steer, Relocated S-10 Gas Tank
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  #36  
Old 10-23-2011, 01:38 AM
Bill USN-1 Bill USN-1 is offline
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Did you measure the resistance of the distr pickup coil?
Look for metal filings on the pickup?

I also was not referring to voltage to the ignition but interference voltage from the sparkplug wires into the ignition or tach wire going to the ecm.
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  #37  
Old 10-23-2011, 04:19 PM
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It was the voltage going into the coil. The stock wire was 7 volts. We gave the coil 12 volts and it solved the problem! Thank god its solved! A hell of headache!
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  #38  
Old 10-23-2011, 09:17 PM
Bill USN-1 Bill USN-1 is offline
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Ignition "should" powered from a relay just like the fuel pump to ensure it recieves full power.
Howell may not recommend it but for our older vehicles the wiring is only marginal.
The original vehicle 12v coil wire simply turns on the relay.
The GM dry core coil should also be used and not the original oil filled coil.

If the original coil was designed to run with a resistor to reduce the voltage to 7-9volts then it may not last at 12v.


Alternators are another problem.
They should put out 13.8-14.2 volts at all rpm for proper operation.
A battery is 13.2v not 12v as commonly called.
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  #39  
Old 10-23-2011, 09:26 PM
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I'm running a blaster 2 coil with an msd distributer and never noticed a problem when carbureted b/c the fuel supply was controlled mechanically. The starter solenoid only puts out 7 volts at the switched connection
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  #40  
Old 10-24-2011, 12:54 AM
Bill USN-1 Bill USN-1 is offline
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Quote:
The starter solenoid only puts out 7 volts at the switched connection
I don't follow?
The coil gets power straight from the key switch in the start and run positions. No real need to run a wire from the S term of the starter solenoid if wired correctly. It was used on systems that ran a resistor so 12v was applied during cranking and then would drop back to the 7-9v when running.


The MSD probillet is just a high dollar ford duraspark distr.

You get the same thing by just running a duraspark distr with the advance locked out and run the stock GM hei coil. Or if you really think there is a difference, run the ford TFI coil talked about in the old team rush conversion.
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