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Old 12-13-2010, 04:38 PM
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kyamcalvert kyamcalvert is offline
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6.2 Diesel - Who's done it? Speak up!

Ok, so, everyone and their grandmother would love to do a 4bt/6bt/4bda or whatever diesel swap. I get that. I understand that the 6.2 is not a workhorse like the Cummins are. I am just looking for decent fuel mileage and longevity.

There's a couple of 6.2's in my area REALLL dirt cheap, and I am tossing around the idea of doing the swap.

So, anyone have a 6.2? What do you think of it? Best decision you ever made? Worst? Do you regret it? Why?

Everyone else feel free to chime in, Cummins guys probably will just to laugh in my direction.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:35 PM
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Diesel YJ Diesel YJ is offline
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I have done it. Original 89 Jeep YJ with manual steering and a 4 banger, pulled it all out, frame off build. 6.2 J code diesel from a HMMWV, full rebuild, serpentine belt from a new 6.2 and a gm3 turbo from a 6.5 turbo and bolted to a SM465, NP 205, D44's and 35's.

I have had it up to 80 something on the highway, I am running 3.31 gears since the axles are from a GW. I am still breaking in the motor and working out just getting things setup the way I want but I am seeing 30+ mpg with out the OD trans, When I get the fuel and turbo adjusted correctly I should see 39-40 mpg. I calculated out the final drive ratio to the rpms and it works out great. The turbo really brings the 6.2 to life. Feel free to ask any questions, I will pull up some pictures and video of the build.
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Old 12-13-2010, 05:40 PM
Jomax Jomax is offline
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Im interested to know that you mention it. How mcuh money did you put in your jeep? did you use the same tranny or did you go to a whole new driveline. Thanks hope im not hijackin the thread.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:02 PM
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Diesel YJ Diesel YJ is offline
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Here is a link to one of the videos from the first couple starts. Sorry its kinda dark, also attached is a picture of it after the new spring install, More to come.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R2JVrbARgmg

I can work up a list of what it would take and details and specs. Gotta study for my midterm tonight but I will get you some info and an average price line for a build.

Mike
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lifted.jpg (386.6 KB, 44 views)
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2000 WJ Grocery Getter and RC approved, 4'' Lift.
1983 Wagoneer Limted - Future tow rig
1988 Grand Wagoneer - All stock but super sexy and clean.
1989 6.2L Turbo diesel YJ, 6.5'' lift, 35's D44 F&R, SM465, NP205, Woody's shafts, Christmas tree air freshener.
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:23 PM
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Might have a guy that wants to trade my 350 gasser for a 6.2 na...
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Old 12-13-2010, 06:52 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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Can't help on the swap thing but the 6.2 in my stock 2WD C-20 works well, runs great. No beyond non normal maint issues. Any dsl/gaso motor needs normal maint(thats what the "heads up"glove box reminder book is for.)
If your find is in good/normal maint done condition the 6.2 can make you happy. If it's a tired lump with issues that was swapped out for a cheaper gaso RUN AWAY.
Yeah dsl's are good for cheap mpgs and internet torque specs but if ya break one it gets spendy quick. Not saying ya shouldn't do it but make sure what you're dealing with is worth it.
My opinion only.. If'n I were gonna do a dsl swap into any car/truck I would buy a complete donor rig rather than just a motor.
Granted the Cummin's is the expensive preferred dope of dsl freaks, But...even if it is the best(andI agree it probably is) it's not the only good dsl out there.
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Last edited by joe : 12-13-2010 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:09 PM
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Bill Moore Bill Moore is offline
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with good maintenance, how many miles can you expect to get out of a 6.2? turbo or non turbo? 6.2s are a dime a dozen here
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:15 PM
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710 Burner 710 Burner is offline
 
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Well I own a Cummins, and I chose a 6.5 to put in my Chero.
It will fit with minimum problem
It will work with a common GM overdrive
With proper maintenance and a new timng chain every 100K mi it will last a long time
It will give me the milage and power I want.
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Old 12-13-2010, 08:42 PM
joe joe is offline
 
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[quote=Bill Moore]with good maintenance, how many miles can you expect to get out of a 6.2?
Depends on previous and on going maint. I'm expecting 250-300k out of my 6.2 but I know it's excellent maint history(documented from the PO).
Dsl's run a long time but like a gaso they need maint but unlike gaso's maint ain't cheap. To get my expected 250-300k out of my 6.2 I do plan on at least one spendy IP, one set of NEW(not rebuilt) injectors and prolly a couple sets of glow plugs and a glow plug controller. NONE of those are cheaper than gaso plugs and points. If yu wanna deal with computer controlled dsl motors expect to add a few electro mumbo jumbo voodoo black magic/boxes to your lifetime costs.
Too many folks with dsl motors after years/miles of just changing filters all'a sudden find they need some serious maint(read:expensive) and bail to hit craiglist with a "ran when parked" dsl motor for sale.
Like anything else Bill, start with good condition, keep it good and it'll last a long long time. Dsl's are great(I'm a firm believer) but they aren't a free ride to mpg's or to "it's a dsl so I'm done spending time/money and I can just put on my rose colored glasses and drive forever."
Bill, you're you've been messin with wrenches and camel piss burning vehicles awhile so the basic rules don't change with changing types of camel piss. "Start with a good motor, maintain it, live happy"
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:20 AM
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  #11  
Old 12-14-2010, 01:49 AM
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kyamcalvert kyamcalvert is offline
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I have spent time in the diesel FAQ, I was more interested in people's opinions after the fact.

Diesel YJ, thanks for the info - happily accepting lots more anytime.

I agree about the donor truck thing, but this motor supposedly has 85k on it for 250 bucks, which seems pretty reasonable to me. I'll have to call in some outside help (rustywagoneers) to help me out with evaluation and such. Around here, I've only seen a few 6.2's in vehicles, and they were pretty firm on unreasonable prices.


Appreciate all input, thanks.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:13 AM
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Marvin Gates Marvin Gates is offline
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A good friend of mine has a 1988 Suburban with the 6.2, it has 240K on it an it runs like new. If you are wanting an asphalt driver they are hard to beat. Its no hot rod by any stretch but a good daily driver. It would be my choice but with a turbo. After 95 you have to deal with a computer but 91 to 95 doesn't have that setup yet.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:19 AM
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Diesel YJ Diesel YJ is offline
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There are certain things you want to look for and stay away from with a 6.2. Stay away from the very early years as they has problems with the main bearings cracking and high levels of nickle in the blocks. There are two kinds of 6.2's C code and J code, it will tell you right on the block front pass side by the head. J codes are heavy duty versions and are what you want to build from if you find one. Stay away from v belts on the civilian models if you can help it but with a well maintained motor I wouldn't sweat it. You want a full donor if you can get one, I really wish I had done it but I didn't have the space at the time. If the motor is in a vehicle let it fully warm up and check for any pressure buildup in the cooling system (cracked heads). I found this out after pulling one from a 89 pickup and saw it run but after the pull and install in my jeep found out my heads were cracked. I would take a motor down and clean it up and have the heads checked and the deck shaved to verify what you have. New or certified remain heads are actually not expensive. Once you get it together its a great solid motor.

Now lets clarify a few things. The 6.2 was built by Detroit diesel to be a diesel from the ground up and NOT a gas 350 conversion. It shares the outer dimensions of a 350, so motor mounts, accessories and trans with bolt up to this motor. The injector pump is the same as the international 6.9 and 7.3 motors so you can use them as a core for a rebuild which is not too bad if you look around and its not bad to swap, I can put some pics or scan the step by step procedure. You can can turn up the fuel for more power but there is a limit and you want to stick to it so you don't kill it. Stick to the original head bolt style (torque to yield) and don't use the stud style (personal experience).

AS far as what I think of mine after building it and driving it for awhile. I love it, I have tons of power (YJ, not a waggy, but I bet she would be great in one), It stays cool with my setup, fuel mileage is great, easy to troubleshoot once you understand a few basic things.

Working on getting some more info together, but ask away.
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2000 WJ Grocery Getter and RC approved, 4'' Lift.
1983 Wagoneer Limted - Future tow rig
1988 Grand Wagoneer - All stock but super sexy and clean.
1989 6.2L Turbo diesel YJ, 6.5'' lift, 35's D44 F&R, SM465, NP205, Woody's shafts, Christmas tree air freshener.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:27 AM
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Diesel YJ Diesel YJ is offline
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The military started receiving the HMMWV in about 86 so you should be pretty safe with a vehicle from that year but 82-85 should be C code light duty motors and J code heavy duty following. If you get a surplus motor once thing to remember is that the military uses 24v electrical systems and the solenoid that opens the fuel and controls either turning on or off the motor can be be a 12v or 24v. Remove the top of the pump and you will see it stamped on the brass cylinder inside. You can snag one from a civilian one in the junk yard or leave it on the core you send it. Sorry quick thought there.
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2000 WJ Grocery Getter and RC approved, 4'' Lift.
1983 Wagoneer Limted - Future tow rig
1988 Grand Wagoneer - All stock but super sexy and clean.
1989 6.2L Turbo diesel YJ, 6.5'' lift, 35's D44 F&R, SM465, NP205, Woody's shafts, Christmas tree air freshener.
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel YJ
Now lets clarify a few things. The 6.2 was built by Detroit diesel to be a diesel from the ground up and NOT a gas 350 conversion. It shares the outer dimensions of a 350, so motor mounts, accessories and trans with bolt up to this motor.

When you swap, do you have to swap out the Torch converter to a diesel version, or do they interchange as well?
I have a guy that wants me to swap in my 350 gasser, and wondered if it needs a gasser TC.
This diesel threw a rod through the oil pan. Does this sound like a drastic failure, or would one believe I could just do crank, rod and pan and hope for the best?
If a rebuild is in order, are there tips on what to do while I'm in there?

TIA....
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'74 CJ5
'75 J-20 Wrecker
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:50 AM
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If it tossed a rod I would stay far away from it. It would have damaged the cylinder wall and who know what else as it was flying around in there. They are pretty common so I would keep looking for a running motor. I did a quick search on a TC for a 88 Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 and it looks to be the same for the 350 and the 6.2 Diesel. They will vary because of the trans you use and I would make sure it fall into the category.
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2000 WJ Grocery Getter and RC approved, 4'' Lift.
1983 Wagoneer Limted - Future tow rig
1988 Grand Wagoneer - All stock but super sexy and clean.
1989 6.2L Turbo diesel YJ, 6.5'' lift, 35's D44 F&R, SM465, NP205, Woody's shafts, Christmas tree air freshener.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:38 AM
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good input on the 6.2, from my perspective the only advantage the 6.2 has is price and cost of compatabile drive train. In building a dependable, reliable and trouble free truck it doesnt add anything, but takes away from a 4bt Cummins baseline. Bottom line from my perspective is if you have plenty of time and expertise, use them as here they go for scrap price, and based on comments, you have to be really careful what you get, and do no push them at all, doesnt look like much room for error. Ill stick to Cummins.
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Old 12-14-2010, 10:46 AM
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Diesel YJ Diesel YJ is offline
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Not true, They are a very good reliable motor but they also have not been made for awhile except in the military world and so you have a used motor with at least 100K or so and years of abuse or neglect. So you want to make sure you have a good block and heads after that run it! They are just like another other diesel out there they will take the abuse and and give you good fuel mileage. They will also pretty much run on anything you can get in the tank that can burn. I mixed some filtered used motor oil into my tank a few time in the summer and ran great.
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2000 WJ Grocery Getter and RC approved, 4'' Lift.
1983 Wagoneer Limted - Future tow rig
1988 Grand Wagoneer - All stock but super sexy and clean.
1989 6.2L Turbo diesel YJ, 6.5'' lift, 35's D44 F&R, SM465, NP205, Woody's shafts, Christmas tree air freshener.
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Old 12-14-2010, 12:07 PM
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More like - know what you are getting into, choose wisely, and make sure it fits your purposes. My 85 J-code 2wd chevy gets 20mpg reliably (3.73's and no overdrive) with occasional long-distance tanks giving me 23. I have towed waggy's on my trailer at a combined total weight of about 12,000 to 13,000 pounds, getting 16 mpg. It isn't fast going up hills, but I don't drive very fast anyway.

It is a low cost way to make your v8 vehicle economical to operate. I don't know if it is realistic to expect a payoff in the life of the vehicle... but maybe...
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Old 12-14-2010, 01:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustywagoneers_com
More like - know what you are getting into, choose wisely, and make sure it fits your purposes. My 85 J-code 2wd chevy gets 20mpg reliably (3.73's and no overdrive) with occasional long-distance tanks giving me 23. I have towed waggy's on my trailer at a combined total weight of about 12,000 to 13,000 pounds, getting 16 mpg. It isn't fast going up hills, but I don't drive very fast anyway.

It is a low cost way to make your v8 vehicle economical to operate. I don't know if it is realistic to expect a payoff in the life of the vehicle... but maybe...
how many miles, how many have you put on it and have you had to make any major repairs?
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67 KJ715 4bt AA OD 465 np205
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Sons Build 1980 short bed J10, j20 axles, 4bt, nv4500, np205, shortened M715 bed and fenders

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